mabc926
Mojo
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Rust repair guru's, I need some help.
- Thread starter mabc926
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f-two-fiddy
Registered User
I've found that with rust that severe it's much easier to find a replacement cab. Sure it CAN be fixed. But what is Your time worth?
gonecrazyi
Full Access Member
Agreed. New cab is a lot easierto and more time and cost effective in the long run.
I've got someone who might buy my truck for 2K, but the only reason I'm selling my truck is because of the rust, and not knowing how to fix it, or how much it will even cost.
So I'd like to get an Idea of how much it would cost to fix the rot, or if it can be fixed.[/QUOTE]
As they said,,when the rust is that far,,the rest of the cab elsewhere, is sure to be rotting beyond repair. You just dont see it. Get a different cab...
So I'd like to get an Idea of how much it would cost to fix the rot, or if it can be fixed.[/QUOTE]
As they said,,when the rust is that far,,the rest of the cab elsewhere, is sure to be rotting beyond repair. You just dont see it. Get a different cab...
Diesel_brad
Dunce
You need a complete cab floor from the firewall to the rear of the cab. And like someone else said, if there is that bead, there are other places that are just as bad, if not worse
Either take it somewhere to have it fixed that knows what they are doing or put another cab on.
Either take it somewhere to have it fixed that knows what they are doing or put another cab on.
You could do a patch job, not caring much about looks and more about function. But in the long run you ARE FAR BETTER OFF just bite'in the bullet and geting a replacement cab.
Been there done that, and all my trucks are now going to be rust free to begin with. I hate rust...
Been there done that, and all my trucks are now going to be rust free to begin with. I hate rust...
gunz
Full Access Member
Assuming the rest of the truck is not rusty, A cab would be best, But its expensive and time consuming. If the truck is rough as the floor, then this is not the way to go.
If you want to save a good bit of time and money, Find a cab and cut those sections out, remove your bad spots and weld it on. I have replaced complete quarter panels, floor pans, and trucks.
On a rusty work truck I would just cobble together some patch panels and go.
If you want to save a good bit of time and money, Find a cab and cut those sections out, remove your bad spots and weld it on. I have replaced complete quarter panels, floor pans, and trucks.
On a rusty work truck I would just cobble together some patch panels and go.
gunz
Full Access Member
Temp repair till you find a clean cab . Shoot some ospho down to stop the rust, Then lay some fiberglass over it. This is definately the ghetto method, But I did it in my old truck that I ran in the mud bogg, years ago just to finish a season out without getting mud in my face everytime I hit the pit. Looked crappy, but it was finctional till I replaced the floor sections of my cab.
gunz
Full Access Member
Hell in that case, Just repalce the rusted sections. I mig welder, sawzall and a grinder adn your good to go.
IDIDieselJohn
0-60....eventually
This should buff right out right? 
And that's the reason why I got my Florida cab
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thats nothing for rust mine was much worse
heres some pics
as you can see it was a horrid cancerous issue and i hated it didnt take time to tack cool tack but thats how it should be done results will be much better.
but youll need some sheetmetal and a vice and hf body hammer set with a few flathead screwdrivers and some vicegrips. use mics tools to bend and shape metal to the area. then cut out the area trace outside the new piece that fully covers the rusted area by 1 inch. then cut just inside the line and your new piece will fall right in. anything overlapping or butting vice grips help to hold it. if you have a hole (burn through) jb weld a old penny or piece of copper to a stick and put it under the hole then try to weld it to the metal. the steel wire wont weld to the copper. also tack every 5 inches then go back and tack in between, then tack just after each tack allowing it to cool. this tequnique will give amazing results
heres some pics
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as you can see it was a horrid cancerous issue and i hated it didnt take time to tack cool tack but thats how it should be done results will be much better.
but youll need some sheetmetal and a vice and hf body hammer set with a few flathead screwdrivers and some vicegrips. use mics tools to bend and shape metal to the area. then cut out the area trace outside the new piece that fully covers the rusted area by 1 inch. then cut just inside the line and your new piece will fall right in. anything overlapping or butting vice grips help to hold it. if you have a hole (burn through) jb weld a old penny or piece of copper to a stick and put it under the hole then try to weld it to the metal. the steel wire wont weld to the copper. also tack every 5 inches then go back and tack in between, then tack just after each tack allowing it to cool. this tequnique will give amazing results
gunz
Full Access Member
I have used old hoods and van doors for scrap metal pieces for floor repair.
thats what i used. i built the inner on that side made it 2 piece in reality the 3 piece thing is the issue for rust becasue water gets inside and then your sol. i bent the floor patch to match the weather strip lip and tacked through then lots of seam sealer (rtv parts store stopped carrying seam sealer and i was mid project) to make sure nothing is getting through. the seat belt will be re mounted to the support in the back of the cab i will be adding a thick 1/8 or thicker fishplate support and a welded bolt to it so itll work then. my seat belt bolt was so corroded ill need a new one im still thinking how to take the bracket off without too much damage so for now passenger has no seat belt lol.
the one piece is made to replace outter only nothing else you can also buy the inner which will make it easier and the third part is not made aftermarket as far as i know but the back of the cab got about 4 reinforcement parts along with the front curved area so no worries about something not being strong enough. maybe someday ill fab up my own inner and attach it for a bit more strength but im also going to add a slider/ step so even though its oe strong or stronger (230lb buddy jumping on it) im not too concerned.
the one piece is made to replace outter only nothing else you can also buy the inner which will make it easier and the third part is not made aftermarket as far as i know but the back of the cab got about 4 reinforcement parts along with the front curved area so no worries about something not being strong enough. maybe someday ill fab up my own inner and attach it for a bit more strength but im also going to add a slider/ step so even though its oe strong or stronger (230lb buddy jumping on it) im not too concerned.
thats what i used. i built the inner on that side made it 2 piece in reality the 3 piece thing is the issue for rust becasue water gets inside and then your sol. i bent the floor patch to match the weather strip lip and tacked through then lots of seam sealer (rtv parts store stopped carrying seam sealer and i was mid project) to make sure nothing is getting through. the seat belt will be re mounted to the support in the back of the cab i will be adding a thick 1/8 or thicker fishplate support and a welded bolt to it so itll work then. my seat belt bolt was so corroded ill need a new one im still thinking how to take the bracket off without too much damage so for now passenger has no seat belt lol.
the one piece is made to replace outter only nothing else you can also buy the inner which will make it easier and the third part is not made aftermarket as far as i know but the back of the cab got about 4 reinforcement parts along with the front curved area so no worries about something not being strong enough. maybe someday ill fab up my own inner and attach it for a bit more strength but im also going to add a slider/ step so even though its oe strong or stronger (230lb buddy jumping on it) im not too concerned.
the one piece is made to replace outter only nothing else you can also buy the inner which will make it easier and the third part is not made aftermarket as far as i know but the back of the cab got about 4 reinforcement parts along with the front curved area so no worries about something not being strong enough. maybe someday ill fab up my own inner and attach it for a bit more strength but im also going to add a slider/ step so even though its oe strong or stronger (230lb buddy jumping on it) im not too concerned.
