Rust Proofing YES!

[junk]

I had my frame powdercoated on my 89 pickup as it seemed the best thing to do. I wouldn't do that again. I would clean everything good, then spray a two part epoxy primer followed by a hardened acrylic enamal single stage (no clear needed) paint. That to me is about as good as your going to get.

My biggest concern with powdercoat, undercoating, por15 etc is once it gets damaged it may allow moisture to creep under it allowing rust to hide in there and keep growing.

I've got a powdercoated snowplow at home where the powdercoat is coming off in sheets and the thing is nothing but rust. Now I had another plow I painted with epoxy primer and cheap single stage paint and it looked fine years later.

 

[6.9poweredscout]

i've seen powdercoat get moisture under it and look fine, then one day it comes off in sheets with swiss cheese under it! my Crew Cab IH will get industrial frame paint. my friend used it on his '70 fleetstar. it went on glossy and hammers or heat won't touch it. i watched him grind 1/2" away from where he welded on a 3/4" THICK HITCH PLATE and it didn't even TOUCH the paint! i'll never, ever take the 4 door out in the salty months so i'm not worried about that rusting. i think he got the paint from NAPA.

 

[coletrain777]

Yes, powdercoat and POR, Rustbullet, Master Series, and the others all have the same problem...they are hard, become brittle, loose adhesion, and then trap moisture. Epoxy primer, then paint is the best option that you have.

 

[ocnorb]

Cole has it right. Nothing beats a good two part epoxy primer.

I have the running boards for my '57 sitting out in the weather for 3 years now. They were epoxy primered and then painted black. I left them out on purpose to see how they weathered.

They have been on the ground, half buried in leaves and mud, rained on, snowed on and moved around the yard as needed. The only place that they have any rust is way up in the seams where I wasn't careful enough as I applied the epoxy.

POR-15 has let me down too many times. I have tried rust encapsulator, but not long enough to have a real opinion on it.

 

[fordf350man]

it can get pricy but if your willing to pay the best thing for the under body and frame would be line x bed liner spray, i have seen underbodys coated with it and its fantastic and looks nice, only down fall is price but rust definitely wont get in, that undercoating stuff in a can doesnt last long and if you have to work under the truck it gets all over you if you rub against it, its really aggravating and makes a mess and pl;us like everyone else said you have to do it every few months

 

[Kalashnikov]

If you spray oil on already rusted area it's not going to help. It almost seemed like it got worse. Even if you just spray areas with the hose and throw some wally world paint on it it'll help.

I'm picking up a rust free truck and I plan on taking the majority or it apart to paint EVERYTHING so it doesn't rust. I'll drill a couple extra drain holes in the inner wheel wells and tailgate. I have always heard nothing but good about POR15 though. Supposedly if it chips in one area it is still sealed from getting moisture under the surrounding area.

 

[junk]

I've got an enclosed trailer they put linex on the tongue and exposed structure of. There are areas it is peeling off in sheets and there is rust underneath. I'm assuming it was poor prep though as a lot of it is holding on really well.

 

[79jasper]

I'm sure a LOT of it has to do with the prep work. If someone were to wire wheel of media blast everything, I bet it'd hold up better.
But I'd like to hear someone's opinion that has done just that.

Maybe the guy above with the paint shop.

 

[CDX825]

Fluid Film works great in places you can't get to and paint! The stuff stays wet and creeps into all the cracks and crevices and repels water and moisture like crazy!

 

[kc0stp]

Have any of you all seen any rusted school/charter buses?
They use an undercoating also.
I'll ask my buddy that worked at the I/N bus plant if he knows what it was. I remember him saying they have a special cleaner to get it off your hands, nothing else would work.

Have I seen rusted school buses? YES, quite frankly if it wernt for rust Id probly be unemployed, 3/4th of what I do is repair rust and related issues (light housings rust out before the bulb burns out, about every 5-10 years we have to grind down the frame and repaint due to rust etc)

 

[79jasper]

Have I seen rusted school buses? YES, quite frankly if it wernt for rust Id probly be unemployed, 3/4th of what I do is repair rust and related issues (light housings rust out before the bulb burns out, about every 5-10 years we have to grind down the frame and repaint due to rust etc)

Lol. Well not around here. They lay out the salt, but we don't get any snow. But also I guess I'm not really in the rust belt. (Oklahoma)

 

[kc0stp]

Lol. Well not around here. They lay out the salt, but we don't get any snow. But also I guess I'm not really in the rust belt. (Oklahoma)

Hehe Im not in the rust belt either, problem we have is the Mag Chloride which they put on thick and heavy (go anywhere else in the state where they dont use it and rust is almost nonexistant), salt is only bad when wet, mag chloride is basiclly liquid salt and gets into every little nook and cranny that salt normally wont if you wash it out soon enough. That said we have proof that they dont build light housings like they used to, have buses from the early 90's with factory orginal clearance lights but yet anything much newer the housings rust out before the bulb goes out normally (same true on the old buses if weve ever replaced the housings)

 

[79jasper]

I've heard of that stuff. Seems like dumber and dumber ideas every year. If people would just learn how to drive, then put sand down for the real bad areas, we'd be saving some tax dollars.
But that'll never happen. (Neither one)

 

[6.9poweredscout]

I've had the oil completely stop the rust. I've done it for a few years and the rusty spots never get worse.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

it can get pricy but if your willing to pay the best thing for the under body and frame would be line x bed liner spray, i have seen underbodys coated with it and its fantastic and looks nice, only down fall is price but rust definitely wont get in, that undercoating stuff in a can doesnt last long and if you have to work under the truck it gets all over you if you rub against it, its really aggravating and makes a mess and pl;us like everyone else said you have to do it every few months

The professional body man just said at the end of page 1 that this is a bad choice, because it will work for a while, then fail, and mask rust that will come up, so this is not a solution. Thanks