Right Way to Bleed the Clutch Slave????

[Joe Mc]

Have I been doing this wrong?
This is from a Ford TSB. Has anyone tried bleeding this way?
Could it be that the bleeder valve is a last resort?

If the truck is a 1987 or prior model, 1988 model with a 7.3L Diesel, 7.5L EFI gas engine or the smaller family of engines with a Warner T-18 four speed transmission, proceed as follows:

1. Remove the master cylinder reservoir cap and diaphragm.

2. Check the fluid level to be sure it is at the step diameter of the reservoir. Do not over fill.

3. From below the truck, push the release lever slowly towards the front of the truck several times.

4. If it will not move, the master cylinder pushrod is not set correctly. See repair Step # 19.

5. Check the fluid level and replace the diaphragm and cap.

 

[Agnem]

Can't say I've ever tried to do it that way per sey. Would be interesting to give it a try. I'm thinking that it's just too hard to push.

 

[FordGuy100]

Yeah, I really dont think that would work.

I tried pulling on the clutch release arm thing (attached to the slave cylinder), and tried to push it towards the front of the truck, and I couldnt get it to move. Now when I pushed it towards the rear of the truck, it moved, and then I loosened the allen screw and all the fluid and air came out of the line, and it was bleed. The only bad part of that system is tightening the allen screw with one hand .

 

[Gary79F250]

I have always blocked them all of the way out and bled them like a normal brake system. It even works on GM's too

 

[sassyrel]

sometimes,sometimes not!!! been there. on some of the trucks,the flex line to the slave cyl goes "uphill". and you wont get it bled without taking the slave cyl off the bellhousing, and make everything go "downhill". finally had to take everything out of the truck on one--and bleed every part individually!!!!! fun!!!! but i just use a large channellocks to depress the plunger to bleed it---

 

[Joe Mc]

I know from experience that they can be a pain to get the air out, after reading the TSB I was just wondering if this really worked. But I don't want to put air into mine just to test it.

When I read the TSB it sounded too easy.

Thanks for your thoughts.

 

[82F100SWB]

What's in the TSB works just fine, but to get it so you can push the slave in, sometimes you have to unhook the rod from the pedal at the master, and I usually pull the slave right off and cycle it by hand. This of course isn't with a dry system.

 

[G. Mann]

I have a cheat to bleed the slave and master that works really good if you have the slave cylinder that has an actual bleed screw with a nipple on it. If you have the "new plastic Napa" crap with the allen screw and a "*** hole" out the side, it won't work.

For those of us who have the "Auto Zone" metal slave cylinder with a nipple bleed screw, this works without fail, first time.
1. Unclip the slave cylinder [or if you have a new one do it on the bench if it's a bone dry cylinder].
2. Get yourself a nice hand oil pump, the old fashioned kind, [Harbor Freight sells one, $4] and about 3 to 4 ft of rubber hose that will just fit over the end of the nipple on the bleed screw and the "squirter" end of the oil pump.
3. Let the master cylinder drain out empty.
4. Compress the slave cylinder via the rod and as you release it slowly, pump brake fluid into the line "in" port to "pre-fill" the slave cyl.
5. Connect the line to the slave cylinder from the master cylinder, snap the slave cyl into position and hook the rubber line from the hand pump to the bleed screw nipple.
6. Lay the cap over the top of the master cylinder [otherwise it will soon make a mess] and pump fresh fluid from the bottom to the top by pumping INTO the bleed port and watch for fluid to "arrive" in the master cylinder.
7. As soon as you have fluid in the master cylinder you have no air in the system so close the bleed screw and lock it down, remove the rubber hose.
8. Fill the master to proper level and seal it with the rubber "thing" and cap.

You are done, and you have NO air in the system. It works first time, every time.

Adjust the free travel on the pump rod under the dash from the clutch peddle to the master cyl, and you will have a sweet working clutch with no air in the system issues.

FWIW,
Grant...

 

[FORDMAN41291]

Why does my clutch stay to the floor then pop up after 10-15 secs.? does that mean there is air in the slave/master cylinder? or maybe I need more fluid, what kind of fluid do I use?

thanks

Ken

 

[redneckaggie]

does it pop up all at once or just return up slowly, it uses brake fluid, check the reservoir just on the drivers side of the engine on the firewall but i have never had this happen because of low fluid. actually i have never heard of anything like that

 

[FORDMAN41291]

it pops up all at one time, I know I need DOT 3 or DOT 4 brake fluid thats the kind it requires

 

[icanfixall]

Any brake fluid will work but... Don't use the syntetic in a normal brake fluid system. They don't mix too well. Its either DOT 4 or 5 fluid... Don't really remember that far back anymore. Nothing I have has a manual clutch.. Just old and lazy auto trans in everything.

 

[FORDMAN41291]

Hey Autozones web page sais DOT3 or DOT4, can they bleed themselves?

 

[dukedrummer89]

Can't say I've ever tried to do it that way per sey. Would be interesting to give it a try. I'm thinking that it's just too hard to push.

It is way to hard to push

Ive always installed the clutch master cyl, hooked up the line to the slave. Then leave the slave hang, have a buddy push in on the clutch pedal and on the return stroke by hand compress the slave cyl. This will get all of the air out, same as bench bleeding. From there the slave can be installed with the slave rod in the clutch fork, then take a rubber mallet and hammer the slave cyl at a 45 to the trans. It will align itself as you hammer it in. Confusing? but its always worked for me

 

[FORDMAN41291]

how do you go about bleeding without taking the whole darn thing apart?