reverse engine bog, ticking and...

[blackbear]

-so after having the engine out and the top end rebuilt, the engine tends to bog down when put into reverse. it doesnt stall out but sounds/feels as if it is about to do so. its also done this a few times in drive while coming to a stop. the truck is only static timed but i wouldnt think that would have anything to do with that. maybe i need to readjust the FIPL?
-the engine has been running smooth but after yesterday i flushed out all the fluids and now ive noticed a higher pitched tick coming from the drivers side. the nouse is just louder than the clack of the engine and at the same tempo. iv put almost 100 miles on the engine since i put it back in the truck without the ticking noise and after i changed the oil ive started to notice it.
-also, ive installed a new steering pump and converted to hydro boost brakes. i feel i loose ps in reverse and various times like in a parking lot while braking. any help is appreciated!!!
ill try to get a sound clip tomorrow-

 

[79jasper]

A lot of questions in one post.......
What year, engine, transmission, etc....
You said "flushed" all the fluids, did you use anything in the oil?

What was the reason for the upper rebuild? And what all was replaced?

For the transmission, yes readjust the FIPL. Also clean all related wire connections really good. Did you also change the transmission fluid? If so, did you use anything to "flush" it also? Or put any additives in with the new fluid?

On the brakes, did you use a used booster? Or buy a new one? Are you sure you have the hoses hooked up right?

I'm betting if you used some kind of engine flush in the oil, you knocked a chunk of something loose and now have a sticking/collapsed lifter. Try some AUTORX. Seams to be popular here. Next being seafoam in the oil.

 

[blackbear]

-the truck is a 94 idit with 190xxx miles with a e40d 4x4.

-the engine was rebuilt due to leaky head gasket. so i pulled the engine and had the heads rebuild by a shop in LA, which didnt need surfacing. i went a little further and replaced the push rods, cam, steering pump, injectors, compressor wheel, a/c stuff, radiator, and most all the gaskets. when i filled the engine with oil i did add a lucas additive in a white quart size bottle with blue lettering which was kinda thick with rotella 15w40HD engine oil. when i change the oil the other day i noticed i used rotella 15w40 for heavy duty engines and not HD diesel. so i used the hd diesel this time with the lucas additive with the black label that has a sd truck pictured on it and wasnt as thick.

-the FIPL was adjusted already with an ohm meter as described in a thread i found and it shifts really firm. ive forgotten what the meter read when i tightened it down but i think it was on the higher side of the values given in the write up. i only changed out the tranny fluid and didnt use any additives. it shifts a little smoother with the new fluid.

-i did buy a new booster and as far as i know the the hoses with fittings only go one way and the return for the cooler goes into the bottom of the ps resi and the return for the booster goes into the top of the ps resi.

-i did flush the cooling system with a prestone solution and filled it with fleetcharge and distilled water...

ive heard of the autorx, i think it needs to be ordered? i know i can get seafoam today. thanks for the suggestion, ill try to get the sound clips today but its rainy and im lazy...

 

[79jasper]

I do think the AUTORX has to be ordered online.
I'm not sure on the lucas additives, never used them.
Is it possible that a rocker arm didn't get torqued down all the way?
For the rest, a video would really help. Maybe some other people will catch up with this thread.

 

[trackspeeder]

For the bog. Check your fluid level. Low fluid will make the converter drift.

 

[blackbear]

i hope this link works, its to a .mov file in photo bucket. im not sure how to get video in the thread. if you can open it and hear the video i believe you can hear the ticking clearest while im standing toward the side and rear of the truck. even in the wheel well its pretty clear and its a little less inside the engine bay do to everything else. i tried to get the engine to bog down while in reverse but it didnt do it this time??? but then again it wasnt warmed up either. the engine was a little less than a quart low of oil too? (which i topped off before recording) please give a look and let me know what you think or if i need to try a different approach to uploading the video. thanks!

http://s1300.beta.photobucket.com/user/mexicondiezel5001/media/IMG_0041_zpsc7d04b0e.mp4.html

as far as the trans fluid, its spot on as far as i can tell. if not i touch over, between cold and hot marks. i do notice a faint whine is a put it into reverse or drive. ill get it warmed up and record those noises too-

 

[blackbear]

i reposted this in you tube as '7.3 idi engine ticking'

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24DpUuIgkYs&feature=youtu.be

 

[blackbear]

ok, so i tried the ole stethoscope and cant hear the tick from the valve cover or oil pan. but ill probably try again. i loosened all the injectors on the drivers side without change in ticking noise. i did notice a new leaking injector on the pass side which im going to replace the o-rings and cap later today. so once i get the parts for that ill continue loosening the rest of the injection lines on that side. i did readjust the fipl from closed throttle 1.09 and wide open 4.13 to, 1.20 closed and 4.22 wide open. but its still bogging/vibrating. heres another clip...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EIj9pJklSDI&feature=youtu.be

i dont know if you can also hear a slight scuffing sound from the trans when i shift??? i shift from N to rev to N to drive back to N and rev. the rpms only drop down maybe a 100rpm. i believe im idling high 700s and it probably only gets down to low 600s. but the engine sounds like its going to stall.

 

[Hydro-idi]

Did you replace the hydraulic lifters when you did the top end rebuild to your engine?

 

[blackbear]

yes, they were soaked in cleaner and reinstalled. they showed no signs of needing to be replaced with new ones.

i didnt get a chance to get anything else done on the truck after this morning...

 

[blackbear]

so, i havent gotten any further with diagnosing these problems. i didnt notice any loss in the ticking noise after loosening each injector and finally got all of the caps to stop leaking. the ticking did seem a little louder today, briefly. i did fill the rear tank up the other day while adding only 4oz of 2 stroke oil to the tank. which was all that i had at the time. if anything the engine is faintly quieter, probably just me reaching though. when i fill up again ill add more 2stroke oil. im also going to try some seafoam in the case and run it for about 100miles and change out the oil. (does that seem to long or short amount of time to use the seafoam in the case?) as for the steering/braking issue, ill just jack up the truck and rebleed the system which seems to have gotten a touch better. for the trans in reverse, it still lugs and puffs blueish smoke. so ill clean up the connectors as suggested and hope for the best.....

 

[79jasper]

With the noise not going away, makes me lean towards valvetrain. If it was a rod bearing, it should've quit.

 

[blackbear]

not going away by means off loosening the injectors equates most likely valve train, right? i dont follow the rod bearing comment thought. i havent put the seafoam in yet and was wandering how long to leave it in the case. thanks-

 

[79jasper]

Because it'll take the load off the rod bearing. So yes, valve train.

On the seafoam, depends who you ask. Some will say just enough to warm the engine, some say a few hundred miles, etc.

Me personally, I use atf any time I suspect sludge buildup. I've seen how seafoam knocks stuff lose. But that was with gas engines.
And I ran it from the parts store to home. So roughly 30 minutes of driving.

So maybe someone else can tell you.

 

[blackbear]

ok, i somewhat see how you mean. i was under the assumption an injector itself might be making the noise? do i need to remove some oil from the engine to add the seafoam or just dump it in? the oil level is right at full. as far as cleaning the connectors for the trans problem, which ones would those be other than the one on the trans?