Replacing IP & Injectors

[big van]

I have a 91-7.3 N/A about 120K miles in my van and I'm not looking to turbo for a while unless some $$ drops from the sky. Returns were leaking and everything looks original gray like it's never been touched. So I took off the IP, Db2831 4817 is the # on it. Was going to replace with the same # rebuilt. Injectors are code D. I know some guys have replaced them with different codes. Is it a good idea to use another code & why. What code is best to use. I was also going to get rebuilt injectors. They charge to have them tested but I hear it's a good idea to test them even though they're rebuilt. I was going to get the parts from Fuel Injection in Fogelsville,PA. They rebuild everything themselves & have been for at least 30 yrs. Any one ever use them?

Also my pulse timing adapter was on #6 cyl. and not #1 cyl. Any ideas on this? It should be on #1 so I'm going to put it there when I reassemble. I just hope return lines work & #1 isn't long & #6 short. My air intake runs really close over the top of # 1.

Any one know of a good shop in SE PA to dynamic time when I'm done? Thanks for the input from everyone.

Matt

 

[Freight_Train]

Leave the timing gizmo on the #6 hole.The trucks have it on 1 the vans on 6.The 6 line on the van is shorter by the length of the timing gizmo.If you swap them the timing to the 2 injectors will be off slightly if you can even hook the lines up.All 8 lines are exactly the same length even if they are closer or farther from the pump.This is to keep the timing of the fuel the same.Also,Just use stock code injectors.No one has ever figured out exactly what the differences are to my knowledge.I suspect there is a slight difference mostly for the EPA crap.If you want more power I would use stock rebuild of any code.I would go for some custom jobs by Ken.

 

[yARIC008]

Yeah, as said, don't change the gizmo and keep the injector code you have. I think BB are interchangable but i'm not 100% sure on that. If you wanted new type injectors you'd need to have the pump recalibrated and then you wouldn't really get much from it, especially without a turbo.

 

[Agnem]

If you really want to get rid of the Gizmo (which is only there to support the Rotunda timing meter), you will need to get a #6 line for a 6.9. Then you can swap out the line and do away with the Gizmo. Given your economically minded statement earlier though, I suspect it may be more cost effective for you to just leave it alone. Injector codes - my opionion on this is that you can use just about any code, just try to make sure they are all the same. The reason I feel this way is that the main difference between codes is the pintle tip oriface size, spray pattern and pop presure. They are all very close anyway, and by the time you have 30K on them, they are no longer in spec. I would never mix new injectors in an engine, but I've been running the Moosestang with 6 D's, a G, and a BB for a year now. I pop tested them all before I put them in and they were all around the same state of being worn out.

 

[big van]

Thanks for the info. guys!! Helps to have good advice for us still learning about diesels. As far as economically goes I was telling the wife we should get rid of her newer diesel because the older ones are cheaper to maintain. Now after doing a tranny, IP, & injectors she just looks at me funny . I can't complain she's a good woman! She said I hope you like that van...you'll be driving for some time now!!!