Reconsidering my RV setup

Cant Write

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Trans cooler: factory, and it’s a simple aluminum tube in a V behind the grill. I would install an aftermarket one.

Column Shift: SOLID as a rock feeling vs these stupid ones of the 90’s......They suck.....royally!!

Test drive: 28 miles of smooth gravel at 10-35 mph. HWY 50 to Blue Mesa summit (60 mph) but I took it to 70.

Impressions: no vibrations, shimmies, or shakes. Does not pull or wander. Love the Saginaw pump. Moves along with ease. Have to get into for boost. Max I saw was 8 psi. Feels like it’s ready to drive around the world NOW.

CC does not work. Diaphragm there, and wires.

Limited Slip does work. The van happily motors down the road and will climb a pass in the left lane with all the speeders.
 

Cant Write

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Gauges: factory gauges work, but the oil gauge would flake out a couple times. Boost gauge works. EGT does not, but it has the sensor and tube (needs new...?) the other 3 did not work. The lone oil temp gauge.....well I forgot about that one cause the wheel blocks it.

Cigarette lighter works. Seatbelts work

Windshield busted on passenger side, but just barely and doesn’t affect vision
 

Cant Write

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Tires looked aged but not rotted.... I’d run them. And yes I’ve thrown treads before. They don’t look that bad and they aren’t an el cheapo tire.

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Cant Write

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Cant Write

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Bottom of door panels could use help

Switch by the brake controller is electric fuel pump.

E brake works.

Room for black tank under rear

Has hitch and 7-pin hookup.

Has 1 solar panel on roof.

Father owned 20+ years. Always went to same mechanic to fix anything it needed. It’s been cared for. They do not drive it in the winter. No rust

Light blue paint is a respray.
 

Cubey

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Trans cooler: factory, and it’s a simple aluminum tube in a V behind the grill. I would install an aftermarket one.

Column Shift: SOLID as a rock feeling vs these stupid ones of the 90’s......They suck.....royally!!

Impressions: no vibrations, shimmies, or shakes. Does not pull or wander. Love the Saginaw pump. Moves along with ease. Have to get into for boost. Max I saw was 8 psi. Feels like it’s ready to drive around the world NOW.

CC does not work. Diaphragm there, and wires.

Trans cooler: Ok. I can get one ASAP. Montrose has plenty of places to buy one so I'll just need 1qt of ATF to top it off off. I was already figuring I'd take off the B&M trans gauge on the RV (teed into the uncooled line coming out of C6) and take it with me. From what have read, the test port on E4OD is ok for a temp gauge sending unit. Not so much on C6, hence why i bought the expensive deep pan.

Column: if it's like on my C6, yeah it's heavy duty feeling and really clunks into it's slots.

My ATS 085 tends to go to around 8 max but the gauge is in a very bad location on mine so i can't see it easily, the steering wheel blocks it. EGT was too until I moved it. Much more than 8 and EGTs climb fast so I back off.

I have never used cruise on any of my IDIs so I don't care about that. I unplug the harness and unhook the hoses, capping off the barbs on the vac manifold. Less stress on the vac pump for something useless.


Gauges: factory gauges work, but the oil gauge would flake out a couple times. Boost gauge works. EGT does not, but it has the sensor and tube (needs new...?) the other 3 did not work. The lone oil temp gauge.....well I forgot about that one cause the wheel blocks it.

Windshield busted on passenger side, but just barely and doesn’t affect vision

I'm good with electrical thankfully. Fuel tank is the worst thing but oh well, maybe I can figure it out. Might move the EGT gauge from the RV to it since it's a good old quality gauge.

My RV has a cracked windshield too, actually. But passenegr side and down low. It had a rock chip and I left it alone. After 3 or 4 years, it began spreading cracks. Put in some windshield chip repair epoxy and it quit spreading.


Saginaw pic: yep, the big o-ring goes bad. I had that same issue and it only got worse. You have to pull the whole stupid thing to change it but I must have done a good job since it no longer leaks on the RV.

Tire pic: eh, that tire was made in 2011. I'd replace them before I leave town. They're 12 years old. I'd be going either 700 miles to AZ or 1000 miles to AR. Can't say I'd trust them that far. That can be a matter of life and death.

I noticed earlier today that it was a respray, due to the darker blue on the inside of the doors.
 

Cant Write

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This deserves its own post: The E4OD

Cliff notes: I wish my van had the one in the 1989.

The gear shift has solid feeling indents like the C6.... when selecting D, or 2, or 1. Heck I used all the positions.

Gear shifts were solid and confident. Not forced and slammed like full line pressure and not weak and timid like slipping its way into gear.

I got on it hard from a stop on the highway. And it felt like it shifted SOLID 5 (FIVE) Times....on a 4-speed....huh....? Must have been the TC lock-up.

Going up BM Summit. I wanted the OD Off button, it’s missing, but step down on it, it’d kick down with attitude, belch some black, and then straight SCOOT.

No shudders, hesitations, nothing. Reminded me of my TH-400 and TH-350 that are mildly built.

ALL automatics should feel and shift like this. Feels better than my wife’s 2022 suburban and now her 2015 Tundra. I like a solid shifting auto.
 

Cant Write

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Fuel filter has 7.3 style, but not the fuel bowl on the bottom. Has a water drain. Did not see anything about a knob under driver seat.

Sucks about the tires.
 

Cubey

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Fuel filter has 7.3 style, but not the fuel bowl on the bottom. Has a water drain. Did not see anything about a knob under driver seat.

Sucks about the tires.

I have seen you can buy ones with a drain on the bottom. I'd probably stick to that kind, one less o-ring to leak from (the bowl on the bottom)

Actually.. i don't think that's the proper date code, it should be 4 digits in a row. So... dunno how old they are in reality. maybe still 2011? Well... that's not the end of the world. My F250 would be due for tires of the same exact size.
 

Cant Write

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So 4.10’s with 235/85/16 with .7 OD locked at 60 mph EQUALS 1800 rpm. Cant ask for better than that!! That’s ideal!!

Hit OD off and it jumps to 2600, right into the power!

Maybe add a manual unlock so you can have it jump to roughly 2k for something smaller. (OD unlocked, 200 rpm slip roughly)
 

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