Rebuilding a 6.5 for the first time

[Smokey73]

Are there any special issues that I should look out for going into this project? It's not my motor, I doing it for another feller. So far he's gonna have to buy a cam, crank, pistons and rods just to get it back together. He has no problem spending the money to do things right and I have no problem doing it right. I'm just not very familiar with these engines at all. Anything to look out for now that might bite me in the rear later?

 

[Smokey73]

Another thought, can you set the timing on these things with a Ferret and a timing light? If so what do they set to? Any input is appreciated.

 

[Smokey73]

???????

 

[65sixbanger]

I think they are pretty straight forward... One thing I would make sure to do right is every torque sequence be followed. Ive heard quite a few bad things about how easily these blow gaskets and dont think you should rush through it.... I think they also have DB2 pump so you should be able to time it like a idi

 

[turbonator]

on the top of your list you should first verify that the main bearing webs do not have cracking, then go out and invest in a scat crank, and most importantly a main bearing girdle these girdle kits can be had from DSG diesel group in canada, they are a good resource for all 6.2-6.5l pieces and motors....

also its a good policy to order your new pistons in a lower compression ratio, this can also be done with head gaskets alone- talk with the folks over at cometic gasket for that.....also be sure if you go with new pistons that they are ceramic or anodized on the tops to resist heat.....

arp head studs are also good for reliability and economy as the head bolts are torque to yield and should only be used one time.....

we will check back in a couple of days to see where you are at......

 

[Smokey73]

the truck owner decided to go back with all stock components. He's not looking for a hot rod or anything. He bought a complete rebuild kit, I haven't seen it yet, but he said it's got everything, new stock injectors, cam and crank. Where can I find torque specs and a sequence guide?

 

[turbonator]

I'm a little suprised that there is no 6.2l/6.5l FAQ's section on here, maybe its time...

you can go out and find a haynes diesel repair manual, its got all the torque specs and clearances in it, its for 6.2l/6.5l/6.9l/7.3l, also it covers the 5.7l diesel. its kind of vague on certain things, but its spot on for torques and clearances...... for what its worth, the list of things we mentioned in our previous post is just a stone cold reliable 6.5l... and remember, inspect your main webs for cracks, this is very common on these engines.....

also be sure to use new head bolts.....

keep us updated.....

 

[mahatma171]

I will share this with you, you probably don't have as much time to read everything I have since I own my 6.5, and plan to keep it for a long time. So I will help you with the info I have learned over the past few months on my first 6.5 buildup.

If the truck is a 92 or 93, it has the DB2 mechanical pump. If it is a 94 or later, it has a DS4 electronic pump.

That being said, if it is a DS4, do not put the PMD (the little black box on the side of the IP) back in the stock location. You need to invest in a remote PMD kit with a heatsink and a 5 or 6 foot wire harness extension, and mount it somewhere out of the engine bay (like behind the front bumper somewhere). While you have it out, replace the OPS (oil pressure sender) with a stock AC Delco part, no imitations. The OPS contains a circuit that sends 12V power to your electric lift pump, and can be a burden if the circuit goes kaput on you. I would also replace the oil cooler lines, make sure radiator is free of any debris inside or outside. Finally, if it doesn't already have one, upgrade to a HO water pump. 97 and newer trucks should already have one. If this engine is older, just order a pump for a 97 or 98 truck.

Since you have a kit, you probably have everything else covered. If you have any trouble locating the specs, I have them, will scan them for you if you need them. We really need to put a FAQ section on this site for 6.5L, I agree.

 

[Smokey73]

I bought the Haynes manual. It had all the specs I was looking for, but it really seemed that all the build information was geared towards a 5.7. It was still worth the $20 or so. Everything is put together and it's going back in somtime this week.

 

[mahatma171]

Glad you got it in one piece. The Haynes manual does real good at supplying all the specs, but not much else.

I just started mine today for the first time. Sounds sweet.

 

[Smokey73]

Update

I put the engine back in a few weeks ago. It started right up and sounded great. I told the guy to run it down the highway, with out a load at about 2000 rpm's as far as he could go at a steady speed. I've done this with several engines I built, I figured this is a good way to break them in. I left it at that and went to the house, feeling pretty good about it. About two days later the guy called me and said that the truck was making a noise. It took me a week or so to get over there to look at it, but when I did, it wasn't good. It had spun three rod bearings and gaulded all the others. On top of that, the guy said he didn't have time to run it like I told him to, instead, it's first trip out was pulling a 20ft 4 horse slant, full of horses and tack. I asked about the oil pressure and he said, "it was good when we started it." Who knows what it ws after it warmed up on the highway.

 

[mahatma171]

why would anyone in their right mind put a full horse trailer on the back of a freshly rebuilt engine that hasn't been broken in yet?

 

[Smokey73]

the answer to that question has eluded me as well. Needless to say, I never thought I would have to be serious about my "front gate" warranty.

 

[towcat]

why would anyone in their right mind put a full horse trailer on the back of a freshly rebuilt engine that hasn't been broken in yet?

None of my builds get a chance for "break-in" time. They are babied long enough for a cooling system burp and a quick trip around the block. Oil gets changed once more and that's it, it goes back into service.

 

[towcat]

the answer to that question has eluded me as well. Needless to say, I never thought I would have to be serious about my "front gate" warranty.

I have one 6.5 with low oil pressure problems but never had a problem though. check the pressure relief valve just in case if it is sticking.