Radiator full of oil...still runs like normal???

[bignastystacks]

only thing i can think of is the oring competly failed and put true oil pressure into the cooling system. 40 psi of oil in cooling system, something is going to blow. luckly it did blow, probly saved the motor by getting your attention

Well I was on an uphill on ramp when it happened. I started to smell antifreeze first. Checked the engine temp and it was fine. Watched it start to climb and knew something was up. My truck even in traffic on the hottest day never went that high on the temp. It was a trip because it was maintaining it with out issue. I only knew there was REALLY a problem when I started seeing the steam. By that time I was on the off ramp. Towed it home and started it up to drive it up in my driveway. Still runs like nothing is wrong...

I will be fixing the oil cooler regardless. Sounds like its a good thing to learn and hell it might save me a couple thousand.

 

[towtruckdave]

Yes the oil cooler is likely your problem as mentioned and that motor oil can do a number on radiator hoses. Allow yourself plenty of time and do it right. Make sure your new O ring kit has the green ones, they are the update. I heard that on here somewhere.

When I did mine, I used a lift but I did not jack up the engine. First I drained the rad, then I removed the 4 rear oil cooler header bolts and the cylinder part (core) came out with the header. I then removed the front header. I am thinking it had 3 bolts but don't quote me on that. I used a razor scraper and carb cleaner to clean the block side sealing surfaces. Next I cleaned the header surfaces carefully cuz the are aluminum and critical. Then I cleaned all the debris out of everything. Next I installed the new o rings on the cooler with a small amount of grease, just enough to coat everything. Then I put the front header on the block with a new gasket and tightened it. Next I pressed the core into the rear header. Then I slid the rear header-core piece into the front header (on the engine now) till it stopped. With 2 rear header bolts ready, I used a big ole prybar between the rear header and the exhaust to press the 3 pieces together and got the bolts through the rear header and gasket and started into the block. Then I added the other 2 bolts and tightened her up. Next I changed the oil. Then I ran the truck on water with the hose stuck in the rad with a moderate flow, which pushed most of the oil out. More oil came out when I drained the coolant. I topped with fleetcharge and dipped the last bit of oil out with a towel. I just put a junkyard overflow bottle and hose on it- easier than cleaning.

 

[bignastystacks]

This is great. The next guy should have an easy explanation and already starting by now. Thanks guys. Im going Reno Friday so ill wait til next weekend when I dont have my son to tear it apart. Heres those pictures and I finally moved to the current century so Ill get more pictures on my new phone along the way. Talk about hose rupture. I will be replacing all hoses after this.

 

[bignastystacks]

The other picture

 

[hairyboxnoogle]

Wow, made quite the mess in there. Well good luck with it, safe trip to reno.

 

[bignastystacks]

Where did yall get the Orings? Dealership item?

 

[icanfixall]

The cooler didn't overpressurize the cooling system.This is a little know fact about all cooling systemhoses. Look closely at the ends or the blowout. You will see these hoses are actually a two part hose. They have an inside hose and a differant outside hose. Why is this you ask. The differance is the fluid that comes in contact with them. The outside is contacting all kinds of oils. So its oil resistant... The inside is only fit to see coolant and water. Get any oil on the inside of any hose and it gets soft. Then it lets go. You can get away without replacing all the hoses if you catch the oil problem early on...But if your buying a farm truck thats been driven for months or years with a cooler leak... Just replace all the hoses. On the plus side the oil in the coolant sure helps the waterpump last longer...

 

[Hick and Tick]

Got mine from Ford, Had same problem got the same advice here spot on. It's ajob 4hr on my back.

 

[bignastystacks]

Finally got some time to work on my truck.

I finally got some time to work on my truck. I also finally got a custody order for my son and ORS is no longer taking more money than I make so I can afford to catch up!! (this is good news for me sorry) I pulled the oil cooler. I took the rear mount/header off and pulled it as far as I could to get it loose. I then removed the bolts from the front to get an inch more clearance and the rear mount came off after some wiggling. I took the bottom radiator hose off and the tube and front mount then slid out nice and easy. It was the large oring on the rear header that failed. There is a visible 1/4 inch split in the rubber. The radiator is still dripping oil and its thick oil too. I ordered the orings today.
11.79 x 2 for big o rings
4.89 x2 for the little o rings
5.30 x2 for the gaskets.

Turns out a friend from my old neighborhood works the parts dept. so that probably wont be the final price .

I will keep y'all posted as I rebuild and install the cooler and flush the motor. I will attempt to install my new to me trans before the snow flies also.

 

[RLDSL]

When you get it all back together, get some radiator flush where the main ingredient is surfactant ( fancy name for soap ) and flush out your cooling system good to get out all the remaining oil residue before you refil it witth antifreeze. or you will be doing this job again.

 

[FordGuy100]

All this begs the question....

I wonder how good oil is a coolant

Sorry to hear your luck bud!

 

[bignastystacks]

Oh ya. I will be flushing it out very well. What is the best way to accomplish this? should I do it while the old hoses are on or after replacing the radiator hoses? I know to put the water hose in the radiator but what tadiator hose should be left off to let the water/surficant flow out?

 

[RLDSL]

Oh ya. I will be flushing it out very well. What is the best way to accomplish this? should I do it while the old hoses are on or after replacing the radiator hoses? I know to put the water hose in the radiator but what tadiator hose should be left off to let the water/surficant flow out?

Obviously you will need to replace the top hose to run a flush, but leave the old hoses on while running the cleaner and flushing it out, then, replace the rest of the hoses .This is a real good time to install block drain petcocks if you do not have them already ( your block has pipe plug drains on each side, remove them and install radiator drain petcocks with easy open wingnuts on each side to make draining teh block much easier. This is the time to do it, and you will thank yourself later if you ever need to do anything.
After running the flush in the cooling system, Get one of those flush T kits to attach a garden hose to your heater hose for flushing out the block, just remember to turn the water on VERY SLOWLY with the radiator cap off and petcocks open to backflush so you do not shock the engine with water that is too cold too fast. Once you have water flowing out steady increase flow a bit at a time until you have a steady stream and run till the water is flowing nice and clean. Replace all thehoses, close the petcocks and refill with fresh antifreeze mix and SCA.

Considering the oil saturation, it might not be a bad idea to replace your thermostat while you are at it. That oil can't have done the rubber seal on the thermostat any good, and now is the time to do it instead of finding out in 15k miles that your water pump impeller has ingested something that doesn't agree with it

 

[bignastystacks]

The radiator drain petcocks. Can I pick them up at Vato-Zone or some place specific? I think thats an excellent idea. I have never pulled my block plugs so when I re-install or replace with the petcocks is there something I should use as a sealant or just the plugs themselves?

So for the flush I will replace the top hose and Bottom radiator hose (had to cut it) maybe with a junkyard set. Take out the block plugs so the water from the garden hose can wash out the oil. Start the truck THEN insert the hose with the water flow on very low and slowly increase until there is adequate flow from the engine blocks.

I plan to purchase the flush solution but before I used it I was told that dawn dish soap will also work as a detergent for the oil. I was thinking about running the dish soap through first. Then running the flush solution for any remaining residue and soap? What do you think?

 

[damac]

My truck had this issue when I brought it home. I broke things down and flushed as best I could. I got some block drains at the local hardware store. (remember to unplug batteries before working in this area). Take your old plug with you to match threads and I used some sealant tape for the hell of it.

I installed a backflush kit, and a coolant filter mod and replaced my thermostat, water pump and hoses all at the same time.

I also was paranoid and experimented with a couple off the shelf radiator cleaners. Then a round of that sudless dishwashing soap, and calgon powder. I would wait hours after each run to let the block cool off so I could attack it with the water hose every which way to get the soaps out.

Then when done with cleaners I did another round of just water, then drained and did one with only distilled water. Then I drained that and was ready for the final fill of coolant and distilled water.

I also ran the truck empty with the radiator blocked off to help it get up to temp easier.

I initially flushed with all new hoses except the heater core to the block. But then I saw some new goop collect under the radiator cap, not floating oil. When I caught that hose I pulled it off and cut it open and it was compromised. The rubber was constantly soaked in oil and I could take my fingernail and run it along the hose and scrape up that goop. So I figure when it heats up it constantly lets loose. So I would replace the hoses then immediately start the cleaning process.