Quick n cheap cowl induction how-to

Sidewinded_idi

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so I was about to pull the trigger on the hypermax kit when I ran an errand to Home Depot and happened to decide to try and do it myself. I think it came out pretty good. I haven't driven it yet but install was smooth and took me about 35 minutes start to finish.

Go to Home Depot and find the ductwork aisle. I bought an oval to round adapter 3 inch with a 3 inch flexible tube. Make note on my style tube as it fits perfectly to the square to Roy d adapter and is a tight fit on the other end onlver my banks inlet. Some tubing doesn't have ends more like a dryer duct. This tube is pretty stout.
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To make the firewall cutout I simply traced the shape of the duct and used a drill bit to make holes all the way around. Once that was done I used my air grinder to smooth the holes and make it a snug fit.
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The only trick is to get the hood to close you still have to flatter the first half of the tube coming off the firewall. I actually set it down and used a battery to pound it flat. Once that was done I simply installed everything and used two self tapping screws on the firewall fitting and one on the tube connection to make sure it's secure.

Once it was assembled I used 3m fire sealant caulk for hvac systems as it was the only sealant I could find that had a temp rating over 140. Also trim the hood insulation right above the fitting so you have more room for hood closure. I also removed my windshield washer tank but you could easily make it work with it.I will post up how it's working tomorrow but so far so good!
 

Sidewinded_idi

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Before
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After flattening and removing windshield tank and cutting hood insulation and sealing all joints
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3m fire sealant rated to 1400 degrees. All the other stuff I found limits it to 140 and I know underwood temps get hot
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Thewespaul

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I like it. Just a thought but after you've been driving for awhile get out and feel the dryer vent to see how hot it is, if it gets pretty hot you might be able to get a little bit cooler air by insulating the whole thing:thumbsup:
 

Sidewinded_idi

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I like it. Just a thought but after you've been driving for awhile get out and feel the dryer vent to see how hot it is, if it gets pretty hot you might be able to get a little bit cooler air by insulating the whole thing:thumbsup:

I was actually thinking about wrapping it just haven't decided the best way to do it yet, any ideas?
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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The air gets pushed through so quickly I'm not sure it would have much time to warm up even 1 degree through a hot duct.
 
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Sidewinded_idi

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The air gets pushed through so quickly I'm not sure it would have much time to warm up even 1 degree through a hot duct.

That's a good point. I'm going to upload a video shortly but so far driving it around is a huge plus. I notice boost is much quicker. Before I had to get some rpms or heavy foot to start hitting the boost gauge but now even at 1500 rpms at 1/8th throttle say cruising city street I'm already at 3-4psi. I didn't think the stock snorkel was that restrictive but I noticed a much better spoil up characteristic


I can't speak for other setups but with my last gen sidewinder the noise isn't changed much. Inside the cab I don't notice anything much. Only change is when I'm getting on it you hear a pronounced whistle now but is gone as soon as your out of the throttle. Also if you have some revs and the trans shifts or you let off you hear the pronounced compressor surge now. I think it sounds good but most importantly for 90% of the drive sound is unchanged
 

FORDF250HDXLT

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Inside the cab I don't notice anything much. Only change is when I'm getting on it you hear a pronounced whistle now but is gone as soon as your out of the throttle. Also if you have some revs and the trans shifts or you let off you hear the pronounced compressor surge now. I think it sounds good but most importantly for 90% of the drive sound is unchanged

Yup,it's a kinda cool sound too.I like it.
 
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