Question about my GP and high idle components

[waynetrain]

Hey gentlemen! Some know that i have went thru hell with this truck, just put a used engine in it and proud to say after several ......... SEVERALLLLLLLL minor issues the truck has towed its 7th car today

I have read 1.7 million post on Glowplugs since becoming a member however it does function properly when i go to start it up cold, it starts fine, no known issues. Once the truck is warm and i turn it off ( keep in mind i try to run it for several hours as i have been driving it to do roadside calls but the fuel burned makes it not worth it) so basically when its hot glow plugs will not activate or however you want to word it. I just read a post about someone having high idle issues etc... and i read the full thread trying to learn how the temp sensor works with the high idle etc... for my truck i just can't seem to figure it out.

If the high idle is to the left of ip pump and to the right of the thermostat housing , i can pull the rod all the way out and it doesn't touch the throttle lever, still has like a 1/2 inch gap. Im just letting you guys know what i see. Even before i changed engines and ip's , the old one didnt touch lever either as if it has wrong bracket but i confirmed it was teh original ip at 340k miles ( it now has new ip just so u know )

so to sum it up, gps won't initiate after engine is hot

secondly the high idle , even if replaced won't touch lever

any suggestions or knowledge is greatly appreciated. i figured i would put both inquiries in one thread.

 

[waynetrain]

I guess i could hook up my toggle switch again to activate gps manually like i did previously, would this be OK to do even with engine warm to get it to start?

 

[BrianX128]

If it won't start warm the glow plugs have nothing to do with it. When I got my truck I had all 8 plugs dead and cooked the engine with the block heater for an hour before the morning start. After that it would start two seconds after shutting down or six hours later dependent on outside temperature and wind while it sat. While you may still have some sort of glow plug issue, it wouldn't cause a hot engine not to start.

A heat soaked IP is about the only thing in my readings on here would give those symptoms.

 

[laserjock]

This is a possibility ^

The GP controller if working right shouldn't really activate the GPs on a hot engine. If you need to check this, you can put them on a button and see if it makes a difference. If it starts normally after a few seconds of glow then I suspect low compression. If it still is difficult, try the old bottle of water on the pump trick.

 

[waynetrain]

Well it makes sense that it won't activate gps while hot, assuming that is how it is supposed to work. I still have not set the IP timing yet, i need to make it a priority but every shop i ask can they set it , says yes, then i ask if they have the right setup to time it they say.... and i quote IDI'S DONT NEED TO BE TIMED, U JUST LINE UP THE LINE ON THE IP, then i ask well why in the hell did you tell me you can set the IP timing then... Now all of a sudden im the ******* lol it trips me out.

So could it possibly be running a little on the hotter side with your statement of it being heat soaked?

So the water on the ip does what exactly? Id assume cools it off?

 

[Mulochico]

My understanding (it happened to me) Heat soak is when the IP is hot the tolerances don't allow it to pump properly. When you spray/pour water on it it cools down enough to let it start up. You need to watch out because, if I am not mistaken, doing the water on a hot IP can damage it enough to make it a bad core and when you replace it you might not get your core charge back. I used a spray bottle and sprayed mine lightly. It would then start. I did it just enough to verify the IP was bad, then I ordered my new one from Conestoga. Very happy with the results sine the replacement.

 

[waynetrain]

Thanks guys for the useful information. It seems i just may be running a little hot. i plan on adding a new modern temp gauge as several post suggest. I run more hotter on the highway according to the factory temp gauge then i do when im towing 35-45 miles per hour with a car on the bed. I put some additive in to help in run a little cooler which has improved the running temp. Still doing 55-65 gauge rises fast. I noticed the ip is hot as **** when i do turn the truck off checking everything because im super paranoid.

It almost seems backwards that it runs hotter at high speed then it does at long idle times or am i wrong about the way the thermal fan works?

 

[BrianX128]

It might not be, the factory gauges don't actually represent anything once your up to operating temperatures they might drift back and forth but that can't tell you anything really. My stock oil pressure gauge moves everywhere when cruising at 65 but my real aftermarket gauge sticks right at 40psi flat. My temp gauge in my 150 is at the "r" in normal at 192 but in the idi it doesn't even go past the "n" in normal at 220.

 

[waynetrain]

So the if the IP possibly being too hot to function properly what is the fix? lol

 

[79jasper]

Replace it with a moose pump......
Parts store pump will put you in the same boat you're already in.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk

 

[OLDBULL8]

HI IDLE ADJUSTMENT

To initiate the HI idle on a cold engine, with the key on, you have to make a one time throttle to the floor cycle, then start.

To adjust the HI idle solenoid on a cold engine, do as above, only DON'T start, open the hood, with a 1/4" open end wrench, turn the plunger clockwise to screw it out until it touches the IP throttle tab, then turn it out one complete turn. Start the engine, the engine should now Rev to about 900 to 1000 RPM, adjust plunger to achieve that speed. Be careful as the fan is turning. The HI idle solenoid will de-energize when the passenger side head temperature reaches ~120* F.

GLOW PLUGS
A Glow plug cycle will initiate if the ambient temperature under the hood is around 60* F for about 4 to 5 seconds, the colder it is, the longer the cycle, up to about 15 seconds.
The ambient temperature under the hood after running the engine on a 80* F day will be way above 80* F for a long time. The ambient temperature under the hood with a running engine is probably around 240* F, where the GP controller is mounted.

IP TIMING ADJUSTMENT WITHOUT A TIMING METER
On a cold engine, advance the IP timing so a little cackle is heard, the cackle should stop after the HI idle (de-energizes) when the RPM goes back to 650 - 700 RPM. Try advancing the IP about 1/32" from the factory mark to start out with.

HARD START ON A HOT ENGINE
To many things can cause that. Suggest you "Search" for reasons and apply what you might think is causing it.