puting strait axle in a 94 f250

lynch

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how hard would it be to but a strait axle in a 94 f250 4x4 7.3 turbo. It has a twin I beam now or that was what I was told lol...this is my first diesel so I dont now much about it but was thanking that when this engine goes I want to put a heavier engine in it so I was told this need to be done and of coures beef up the springs and stuff like that
 

pennsylvaniabo

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if you get a dana 60 from an OBS Ford....I've done them in roughly 4-5 hours from tear down and bolt in with changing hubs, bearings etc. They mention the springs because the TTB springs that come in the f250 are quite thick and stiff. My suggestion is to get the axle, springs, panard bar, panard bar bracket, and tierod from the F350 donor truck. Buy some grade 8 bolts for the panard bar and new u bolts and you're done.
 

hesutton

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Are you 2x4 or 4x4? Twin I beam is generally used to describe the IFS of 2x4 F250's. Twin traction beam is generally used to describe the IFS of 4x4 F250's. Just want to be sure what you've got.

The Dana 60 swap from any pre '99 Ford F350 will bolt onto your truck. You'll need the complete axle hub to hub, the springs, the tie rod, the track bar (panhard) and it's mount, and I'd recommend getting the front driveshaft and tranny crossmenber as well to ensure you don't have any driveshaft issue like I had during my swap.

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With the 4 inch lift, the F250 front drive shaft was resting on the tranny crossmember. With the F350 drive shaft (double u-joint at the t-case) or with the F350 crossmember, I had more than enough room. I ended up using both just to be sure.

Heath
 

pennsylvaniabo

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Are you 2x4 or 4x4? Twin I beam is generally used to describe the IFS of 2x4 F250's. Twin traction beam is generally used to describe the IFS of 4x4 F250's. Just want to be sure what you've got.

The Dana 60 swap from any pre '99 Ford F350 will bolt onto your truck. You'll need the complete axle hub to hub, the springs, the tie rod, the track bar (panhard) and it's mount, and I'd recommend getting the front driveshaft and tranny crossmenber as well to ensure you don't have any driveshaft issue like I had during my swap.

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With the 4 inch lift, the F250 front drive shaft was resting on the tranny crossmember. With the F350 drive shaft (double u-joint at the t-case) or with the F350 crossmember, I had more than enough room. I ended up using both just to be sure.

Heath

THis usually only happens with a lift kit. if staying stock or near stock you will be good
 

hesutton

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THis usually only happens with a lift kit. if staying stock or near stock you will be good

True, but before the lift, that stock F250 shaft and crossmember where too close for my comfort. But, I'm kind of crazy about stuff when is comes to the truck.LOL

Heath
 

lynch

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its a 4x4 I just wanted a strait axle cuz I am thankin about putin in a john deeres 4020 engine which is a strait 6 just like a cummins or a powerstroke but dont know yet and thanks for all the info
 

Diesel_brad

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its a 4x4 I just wanted a strait axle cuz I am thankin about putin in a john deeres 4020 engine which is a strait 6 just like a cummins or a powerstroke but dont know yet and thanks for all the info

FYI the JD engine you speak of is less than 100hp. even adding a turbo and pump would be less than 250hp. Alot of work for little gain
 

MUDKICKR

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just add a couple more leafs to the frt and let it be. lot of money to swap to a 60 just to hold a little more weight.
 

lynch

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yes I know the john deere is rated at 100hp we had a 4000 which is the same as a 4020 and we had 125hp comein out of it with a turbo but u can do some more stuff to get more out of them lol plus I will like the mpg but that might be the engine I put in a ford highboy lol and put the powerstoke in the truck I have now
 

adrianspeeder

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yes I know the john deere is rated at 100hp we had a 4000 which is the same as a 4020 and we had 125hp comein out of it with a turbo but u can do some more stuff to get more out of them lol plus I will like the mpg but that might be the engine I put in a ford highboy lol and put the powerstoke in the truck I have now

The lack of a . in your typing makes my head hurt.

Furthermore, a green motor in a Ford does as well.

Adrianspeeder
 

NapaBavarian

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DT360


:rolleyes:



Most people who talk about the axle holding the weight make me cookoo



Are you going to jump small buildings and large cars off road or drive on the highway to pick up groceries? Off road the D60 is logical, on road? Save that $800-1500 for your new turbo or overdrive, if MPG is what you want make sure you have a pedal to the left of the brake pedal, the really wide brake pedals with nothing to the left cost you a couple MPG.

How will this be used? Towing a locomotive up and down hills or driving 65 miles an hour down the freeway with a 6 pack of beer in the bed? The later does well with 3.08 gears, not fast, but MPG, the prior may need 4.11, but bye bye MPG.

If you just want to change an engine then it's best to admit to it up front, the new engine will move you from point A to point B just like the old one, just with less money to buy beer in your pocket.

That JD engine sounds like it would be right at home under the hood or a Ford Ranger pulling 35mpg or forty on the freeway :sly what does it weigh? If it's a lot then get a long bed regular cab and build a mid engine pickup with a trunk up front where the engine was :eek:

Never mind me, it's too cold to go out and build something and I have no work for the next 6 weeks, so I'm giving my 5 cents...inflation and all ;Sweet
 

6 Nebraska IDIs

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The lack of a . in your typing makes my head hurt.

Furthermore, a green motor in a Ford does as well.

Adrianspeeder

:rotflmao LOL

If it floats your boat go for it man! I love seeing what people can come up with.

Personally I don't see the point of allot of these engine swaps people do. But I guess those guys probably don't understand why people like me put a $750 injection pump, $200 intercooler and a hundred hours of fabrication time into my old IDI to make it all work either.
 

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