Pulling apart a locked up motor

[fx4wannabe]

Well I got this motor that is locked up. The pistons are rusted in the cylinders bad. I was going to try and save the crank and cam but since I can't rotate the crank I can't get the torque converter off and I can't get all the rods off. Is this more trouble than its worth or should I just scrap the whole thing? I also can't seem to get the harmonic balancer off. Once the center bolt is out it should slide off right?

 

[Shadetreemechanic]

You will probably need a puller for the harmonic balancer. You could put a bunch of pb blaster in the cylinders to see if they free up, but if everything you see is that rusty it is likely that the stuff you can't see is that rusty as well.
You could also try taking all the rods loose that you can get at and use a stick and mallet to hammer the pistons out from the bottom. Then try to turn it with only the friction of the remaining pistons.

 

[fx4wannabe]

I may give that a shot. Just trying to salvage all I can. No point in scraping good parts. This is the first time I have been inside a diesel but it looks pretty good.

 

[1320Cummins]

I may give that a shot. Just trying to salvage all I can. No point in scraping good parts. This is the first time I have been inside a diesel but it looks pretty good.

The IDI is a gas conversion diesel so many of your internals will look like BB gas stuff.

You may want to cut the connecting rods if it means you can salvage the block and crank.

 

[NapaBavarian]

Have you pulled the heads? If not doing that will help you figuring the next step, depending on how bad the rust is it may be fairly easy to get her to rotate, sometimes only one or two cylinders are rusted and can be poped loose with some PB blaster or an angry monkey with a big hammer

 

[icanfixall]

The harmonic balancer is pressed on. You need a puller that bolts to the inside housing. See the 4 bolt holes. Don't try a two or three legged puller on the outside of the balancer. That will pull the weight of the balancer. A large blade screw driver used on the starter gear will rotate the motor. How do you know the motor is rusted up??? Usually only a couple of intake valves are open so only a couple of cylinders are rusty. Now if all the glow plugs or injectors are out then water can reach all cylinders. Don't cut the rods. Hopefully the motor is out and on a stand. That way you can remove the crank and drive out all the rods and pistons. About saving the block... It will need to be sleeved no matter what you do taking it apart. Not many take the chance of boring it out to 20 over. The cylinders are way to thin already...

 

[OLDBULL8]

I also can't seem to get the harmonic balancer off. Once the center bolt is out it should slide off right?

It won't slide off, they are pressed on tight.

Well I got this motor that is locked up. The pistons are rusted in the cylinders bad. I was going to try and save the crank and cam but since I can't rotate the crank I can't get the torque converter off and I can't get all the rods off.

Is the motor still in the truck? Have you got the heads off? If not then lay it on it's side and spray about a 1/2 can of PB Blaster in each of the 4 cylinders facing up through the GP holes and let set for 3-4 days, reinstall the GP's and repeat on the other side.

If the heads are off, do the same, meaning fill the cylinders with PB enough to cover the piston.

After a couple of days, have someone try to turn the crank while you bang each piston with a 2x4 and sledge hammer. Do that in the firing order.

Is the TC still hanging on the flex plate or is it a solid fly wheel?

The engine rotates in a clockwise direction as seen from the front of the truck, and for every 1/4 turn of the engine(crank) each next piston will arrive at TDC. So, When the line on the vibration damper is at the 2 oclock position, cylinders 2 and 5 will be at TDC. When the mark is at the 5 oclock position, cylinders 7 and 6 will be at TDC, 8 oclock has cylinders 3 and 8 at TDC, and back to 11oclock, 1 and 4 will be at TDC.

Cylinder numbers are assigned 1,3,5,7 on the left (passenger USA) bank from front of truck to back, and 2,4,6,8 on the driver's side (USA), front to back. Firing order is 1,2,7,3,4,5,6,8.

 

[THECACKLER]

I had one that somebody took the GP's out of and then set outside with a sheet of plastic to protect it. Yeah Right. Anyways, Save your lungs and buy a gallon can of PB Blaster. Get a stick of oak Firewood and a 6 or 8# Sledge and after soaking the jugs for a day or two in PB, start tapping them down a little at a time. Go slow and don't work on just one cylinder. If you do you can damage that rod and even bend the crank. The pistons are most likely hosed but you may be able to save the rods and crank. You can get a HB puller as a loaner from AutoZone. You'll need some 3/8" bolts, perhaps from the Intake Manifold, to thread into the HB to pull it. Make sure you take the washer off and then put the bolt back in all the way to protect the threads or you'll hose the crank.
Cam & lifters should be good too. It's always a good idea to number them so you can put them back in the same position relative to the Cam. I use aluminum foil to wrap them and tape to make a label. Intake is on the Left and Exhaust is on the Right.

 

[NapaBavarian]

If you have the heads off and like to conserve either chemicals (liberal) or your $$$ (conservative) you can always just spray a little PB around the rim of each piston every morning and tap the evil doer lightly every night till she pops

 

[fx4wannabe]

Yea motor is out of the truck and its been sitting outside for years with the heads off. Some of the cylinders have about 1/4" of rust build up in them. I think the lifters are rusted in too. The block is cavitated according to the previous owner which is a shame cause so far what I have seen of the inside and the bearings it looks like it might have pretty low miles or was very well maintained other than the coolant. Thanks for the tips. I also having a running motor I am going to tear down for a rebuild so there will be many more questions in the future I am sure.

 

[jeffgordon24]

ive used diesel fuel to unlock plenty of motors ,just put it around the rings soak it there for a few hrs then try with a breaker bar to turn it

 

[Goofyexponent]

The IDI is a gas conversion diesel so many of your internals will look like BB gas stuff

Are you sure about that? You may be right, but I haven't heard that before.

 

[GOOSE]

The IDI is a gas conversion diesel so many of your internals will look like BB gas stuff.

You may want to cut the connecting rods if it means you can salvage the block and crank.

Ummm, yeah, I haven't heard that before either. As for as I know, this was a newly designed diesel engine that was put together on paper, built, and tested in the late 70's. Unfortunately it was delayed for production untill '83. Factory '78-'79 IDI's would've way too cool for us to get our hands on. I betcha ford and international had one mocked up somewhere.

Edit: more good history: http://www.moddedraptor.com/community/off-topic/2805-know-your-idi-history-ford-diesel-101-a.html

 

[typ4]

It isnt a converted gas, it was a clean sheet diesel, yes it does look like a gas block in some aspects but I laid one side by side and the diesel block is way different.

Use atf and laquer 50 50 mix, it will soak into the carbon around the pistons and rings and will free it up. Dont get in a hurry, the rings are stuck, sand the bores above any pistons .

 

[fx4wannabe]

Use atf and laquer 50 50 mix, it will soak into the carbon around the pistons and rings and will free it up. Dont get in a hurry, the rings are stuck, sand the bores above any pistons .

Did you mean laquer thinner?