Powerstroke waste gate

[geonc]

George,
Mine ain't sick but what would I need to do to get those cures on my truck?

Remember I do live at the beach.....

At this time of year it's 33 frickin' degrees this morning

The quick fix is to simply un-plug it--it requires current to actuate...permenant
fix is to remove turbo/pedestal assy, remove plunger and piston, drill and tap, and plug pedestal where rod comes thru, shorten rod, re-seal end cover and install---of course this path is a wasted trip if you don't also re build the turbo [esp if you have some oil consumption/ bluish smoke], install new up pipe doughnuts and completly gut the EBPV flap and plug the holes, drill and tap the turbo for a pyrometer....

about a good days work

 

[geonc]

Rumor has it that a case of beer might just do the trick......

Ah yess...beach,[but NOT this time of year!] and beer

hey ...mebee I should change from Spider Bait to Beer *****

 

[Crumm]

The quick fix is to simply un-plug it--it requires current to actuate...

If you do unplug it you might want to install a Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Code Eliminator. This will keep the check engine light off.

Also available on ebay.

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

only one I ever had a check engine light on was an excursion

 

[geonc]

If you do unplug it you might want to install a Exhaust Backpressure Sensor Code Eliminator. This will keep the check engine light off.

Not one of the OBS I have done, have shown a code ...nor did the SES light come on when the EBPV was actuating with the eng at operating temps...

 

[Crumm]

Not one of the OBS I have done, have shown a code...

My 96' showed a code before I installed the dongle. Our 00' Excursion showed the code along with the SES light.

 

[towcat]

what a convenient time for this topic to come up.....
I have a 10/98 F350 in my posession right now with a bad turbo. Two of the exh housing bolts fell off and caused the housing to lock up the impeller. The whole thing is off right now and I have a chance to deal with the EBPV acutator. Out of curiousity, what harm is there is wiring open the flapper and cutting the acuator rod and keeping it plugged in?

 

[h2odrx]

Yeah,
I don't think mine is bad yet..... I do have up pipe leaks? How does my turbo look?

 

[Mike]

Out of curiousity, what harm is there is wiring open the flapper and cutting the acuator rod and keeping it plugged in?

No huge harm Cal, what you might find though is that the actuator arm may develop an oil leak from just dangling in air. I had mine unhooked like this for awhile and ended up developing the leak. If youve got the turbo on the ground right now just pull the piston/actuator, take a 1/4" pipe tap and tap the hole where the rod comes out and run a pipe plug into it and be done with it.

 

[geonc]

Homer beat me to that Cal .....but in addition, re-seal the opposite end of the piston bore---where the snap ring cover is.

You have the EPBV exposed so just cut the rivets, nip out the shaft and use a 3/4" cup plug....

 

[geonc]

Yeah,
I don't think mine is bad yet..... I do have up pipe leaks? How does my turbo look?

Judging from that pic....



















{and in my best Billy Crystal does Ricardo Mantalban}

"You look MAH-VOLUS darling" ;p

 

[h2odrx]

I had to say it... left for work today and could hear it (EBV) close and open low power and all. did it again tonight had to run check a pump house all the way there it was fine, start back up to come home and it kicks in and stayed on for a good min till it cut off. i guess it is time to pull the fan and block off the grill?

 

[Mike]

i guess it is time to pull the fan and block off the grill?

No, I'd say its either

1. Time to clean the EBS tube
   or
2. Time to unplug the EBPV solenoid
   or
3. Time to mechanically unhook the actuator arm and wire the butterfly open
   or
4. Time to gut the pedistal and gut the turbo outlet housing
   but dont block off the radiator, its not truly an engine heat problem.
   
   I believe the PCM looks at three conditions when making a decision to operate the EBPV.
   • EOT (engine oil temp)
   • IAT (intatke air temp)
   • EBPS (exhaust back pressure sensor)

 

[h2odrx]

I plugged it in last night, it started and ran fine! I guess some PM is in order!

 

[howards@howard]

Exhaust valve

The rod on the valve will break soon anyway so disconnect it and bailing wire the valve wide open.