SHARPIE
Full Access Member
ITSA Looks good... but for about the same money you can have automotive paint.
Paint Questions
- Thread starter briang
- Start date
i went to a auto paint shop
checked out a paint, i think single stage, gallon of white paint to match my truck (yo is the paint code), reducer and hardner 189.00
no base coat
this is my first "real paint job" so we will see how she goes,
guys got any " i wish i didnt do that when i painted my truck" advise
im by no means a painter
checked out a paint, i think single stage, gallon of white paint to match my truck (yo is the paint code), reducer and hardner 189.00
no base coat
this is my first "real paint job" so we will see how she goes,
guys got any " i wish i didnt do that when i painted my truck" advise
im by no means a painter
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Im no painter either, I think the biggest problems are orange peel and running.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
Prep prep prep
Make sure its sanded down well. I will typically go to 400 or 600 grit and make sure you use some naptha to wipe it down becore you shoot it. You will want itas clean as physically possible. Bad prep will make even a cheap job look horrible. But if you take your time and put extra effort into the prep you can achieve some very nice results with cheaper materials.
Also make sure you adjust your gun on some paper or some other surface then your truck. You want and even coat but not too heavy about 6-8" wide and slightly overlap your strokes. Your speed will depend on the amount of paint coming out of the gun. Also make sure you move parallel to the surface and not i an arc. Im glad you stayed from rustoleum. That stuff is better suited for undercarriage stuff or something you totally dont care about. Rustoleum uses a fish oil in their paint and it never totally dries. If you have any ideas of redoing something at a later date the rustoleum cause all sorts of havoc with the new paint. It will cause it to wrinkle and lift. Last vehicle i painted that had half a quarter spraywd with rustoleum i had to sand it down to bare metal to get the new stuff to stick and not react.
Hope that helps.
Make sure its sanded down well. I will typically go to 400 or 600 grit and make sure you use some naptha to wipe it down becore you shoot it. You will want itas clean as physically possible. Bad prep will make even a cheap job look horrible. But if you take your time and put extra effort into the prep you can achieve some very nice results with cheaper materials.
Also make sure you adjust your gun on some paper or some other surface then your truck. You want and even coat but not too heavy about 6-8" wide and slightly overlap your strokes. Your speed will depend on the amount of paint coming out of the gun. Also make sure you move parallel to the surface and not i an arc. Im glad you stayed from rustoleum. That stuff is better suited for undercarriage stuff or something you totally dont care about. Rustoleum uses a fish oil in their paint and it never totally dries. If you have any ideas of redoing something at a later date the rustoleum cause all sorts of havoc with the new paint. It will cause it to wrinkle and lift. Last vehicle i painted that had half a quarter spraywd with rustoleum i had to sand it down to bare metal to get the new stuff to stick and not react.
Hope that helps.
itsacrazyasian
residentcrazyasian
I have 30 bucks in paint and thinner....
Like i said, CHEAP.
Would i do it again? Probably not. The bed was already rustoleum so i didn't want to take it down to redo it.
I;ll snap a pic of my neighbors 300sd that i shot for him. Its Nason. Looks great for a cheapo paint job.
If you can, get some sheet metal to play around with. I keep a little filter drier hooked to my belt side when i spray. even with the cheapo guns, they look great. I just get the warrenty through harbor frieght and get a new one when i'm done. for some reason they don't seem to work well after cleaning. Then again, they're like 10 bucks with a 2 dollar warrenty.... Can't go wrong there.
fuelscrew
Diesel Addict
I've found the cheaper guns never get completely clean that's why im. the never spray right again its prolly a Paris Finnish on the inside parts
freebird01
Post Turtle!
i use a $100 porter cable gun i bought from lowes. it works pretty good for anything but clear. last time i sprayed clear i used a friends $300 sata.
the cheaper guns usually have larger tips which do ok for spraying the heavier single stage paints. again...its all in the prep. and taking apart your gun and cleaning it is part of the prep
summit racing also sells a line of single stage paint that you can get a gallon of paint and hardener for under $100.
the cheaper guns usually have larger tips which do ok for spraying the heavier single stage paints. again...its all in the prep. and taking apart your gun and cleaning it is part of the prep
summit racing also sells a line of single stage paint that you can get a gallon of paint and hardener for under $100.
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
I used a full 2 gallons on my single cab with two tone blue white. my main bit of advice is just as freebird said prep prep prep. make sure your gun is clean, paint is mixed well, never stop moving your hand until after you let off the trigger, wipe the surface down really well with a QUALITY thinner or acetone. I used a cheap thinner to wipe down the tailgate because I ran out of good thinner and the **** screwed it up horribly. the paint bubbled and ran and I had to redo it. other than that make sure to mask everything really good, and pay attention to coverage. The more you thin the paint the more shiny you can get it but also the easier it is to make it run so there is deffinately a tradeoff there. just take your time and dont get in to much of a rush.
Michael Fowler
Registered User
I'd suggest using an automotive quality paint rather than rustoleum.
Here is an alternative Acrylic enamel for about $50:
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html
Don't short cut the prep.
Here is an alternative Acrylic enamel for about $50:
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_enamel_paint.html
Don't short cut the prep.
freebird01
Post Turtle!
thats why i suggested naptha thinner. naptha will evaporate and not leave any film or residue. its the closest you will get to a PPG DX330 surface prep cleaner. ive painted 3 samurais so far and every one of them i used naptha and never had any adverse reactions. all the bad stuff happened on my end due to cheap primer or RUSTOLEUM....
The problem with cheap implement enamels is they just dont harden fast enough. That and they have almost zero UV resistance. Ive painted plenty of stock cars, off road type things with it, and it looks ok out of the gun, but a year later its faded bad.
It also doesnt set up NEARLY AS FAST, so its actually very hard to spray and get a decent coat down. For the little bit you save, its totally just not worth it. There are plenty of alternatives that arent that much more and will give a thousand times better results. The best by far is any sort of urethane, enamel is old hat....
It also doesnt set up NEARLY AS FAST, so its actually very hard to spray and get a decent coat down. For the little bit you save, its totally just not worth it. There are plenty of alternatives that arent that much more and will give a thousand times better results. The best by far is any sort of urethane, enamel is old hat....
freebird01
Post Turtle!
yep agree 100%. did a beater zuk onetime in TSC tractor enamel...looked great for about 6 months...then is was a chalky faded yellow instead of bright new holland yellow
Michael Fowler
Registered User
Urethane kits for about $80
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_urethane_paint_kits.html
http://www.paintforcars.com/acrylic_urethane_paint_kits.html
SHARPIE
Full Access Member
1......FIRST AND FOR MOST BUY A RESPIRATOR NOT A PAPER MASK CATALYZED PAINT WILL KILL YOU FAST!
2.wash the truck down and let dry overnight vents grills door jams so no dust or dirt blows out.
3. Tape the night before you paint and make sure your clean body grease will screw with cheaper paints more the the good stuff, YOU are just as much of the prep as the truck
4. Tape all your jams weather your painting them or not...The reason you need a starting place and a stopping place you will tire out fast holding the gun they get heavy, Being your first job I'd recommend you just cover the cab and do the bed first then cover the bed and do the cab the next day.
5. Make sure you have a water filter on your gun they are cheap insurance nothing will **** you off more then getting half way done and the gun starts spitting water.
6. Get a bright light and shine it on the vehicle its easier to see your wet spot you need to keep a 50% overlap to keep from having any dry spray
7.NO GAS WATER HEATERS IN THE AREA!
8. Move your compressor outside away from the area.
9. NOBODY WATCHING IT WILL MAKE YOU NERVOUS AND MESS UP
And Oh 10. Dont use plastic paint wont stick so you'll get started on a second pass and it will start to flake off...Only use paper plastic is fine for cover only unless you buy paint grade plastic.
It really not hard its just alot of work, Any runs can be wet sanded out but dry spray is with the job forever..You will appreciate why body shops ask 1000.00 for a simple paint job.
2.wash the truck down and let dry overnight vents grills door jams so no dust or dirt blows out.
3. Tape the night before you paint and make sure your clean body grease will screw with cheaper paints more the the good stuff, YOU are just as much of the prep as the truck
4. Tape all your jams weather your painting them or not...The reason you need a starting place and a stopping place you will tire out fast holding the gun they get heavy, Being your first job I'd recommend you just cover the cab and do the bed first then cover the bed and do the cab the next day.
5. Make sure you have a water filter on your gun they are cheap insurance nothing will **** you off more then getting half way done and the gun starts spitting water.
6. Get a bright light and shine it on the vehicle its easier to see your wet spot you need to keep a 50% overlap to keep from having any dry spray
7.NO GAS WATER HEATERS IN THE AREA!
8. Move your compressor outside away from the area.
9. NOBODY WATCHING IT WILL MAKE YOU NERVOUS AND MESS UP
And Oh 10. Dont use plastic paint wont stick so you'll get started on a second pass and it will start to flake off...Only use paper plastic is fine for cover only unless you buy paint grade plastic.
It really not hard its just alot of work, Any runs can be wet sanded out but dry spray is with the job forever..You will appreciate why body shops ask 1000.00 for a simple paint job.
thanks to all for the advice
not sure when i will get to paint but you aint kidding theres alot of prep work
im pretty sure the po used some rustoleum in the hood and fenders
i will be sure its sanded real good before i paint
thanks for the links too
i will post some before and after pics when i do.
not sure when i will get to paint but you aint kidding theres alot of prep work
im pretty sure the po used some rustoleum in the hood and fenders
i will be sure its sanded real good before i paint
thanks for the links too
i will post some before and after pics when i do.
