New truck; milky oil, hard start.

[04_6.0]

I traded my offroad rig for a 1994 turbo diesel idi. The truck has 316k but honestly runs great. My dad had a 6.9 that had 645k when he finally sold it. And ran great at those miles. Anyways I drove about 7 hours, inspected the truck, oil, coolant, all the fluids, drove it, asked a lot of question, made the trade then drove the truck on the trailer and headed home. I stopped overnight went to drive it off the trailer once I got home but wouldn't start. so I pushed it off into the yard. I disabled glow plugs hit it with a shot of either this morning and drove it around the yard to the shop. Has a slight greyish haze at idle. Shut it down and reChecked the fluid levels and I found grey oil.

That's the problem. Now before I picked the truck up he had a shop replace. Head gaskets, injectors, IP, oil, coolant and all the filters. I can verify this with the receipts he handed me. He changed the oil himself again cuz that's what the shop told him to do after 500 miles. Little odd but ok. When I got there to get the truck he had changed the oil and this was the first time the truck had been ran since then. So clean oil. Now I think I just got took. I'm calling the man tomorrow to let him know. Thing is we traded but he didn't have the title straightened out. So he let me take the truck, the keys to the jeep along with the registration, plates, and title to the jeep. I recieved the correct signed and dated title to the truck in his name this evening. What should I do. Over our txt and phone calls he told me he knew of no mechanical problems what so ever and the truck was great. What should I do? Also where do I start on the truck? Compression? Cavitation? Oil cooler head gaskets? If I have to do all that if rather have my offroad rig back.... Suggestion and or knowledge needed.

 

[riotwarrior]

Sounds to me like someone just tried to pull a fast one.

You don't do all that work and not know something is wrong...or why would he have had all that work done?

Quick check, pull GP"s and see if anything squirts out the holes..you'll see if it does...trust me I know this.

Another thing would be a leak down and or comp test. headgasket upside down could be the issue, but that's nigh impossible to know until you take and tear it down.

Bottom line, you'll have to make a choice on what to do about the swap.

Good luck with yer decision.

Al

 

[04_6.0]

Also: when I tried. To start it for the first time today it sounded like just the solenoid was clicking. So I made sure everything was good and hit the start button again. No go just a click so I hit it again and held it about 2 seconds. It slowly turned over then would turn over fine. Hydro locking possibly?

Thanks for chiming in. That's kinda what I was thinking. Why spend 1400 dollars and not fix everything that was wrong with the truck? That or it was a failed diagnosis of the mechanic.... I honestly do not like paying anyone else to work on my vehicles. If I do it I know it's done right and to the best of my abilities.

Can a failed oil cooler let this much water into the engine? I mean it is a lot of extra in there possibly 2-3 gallons. That's about how much water I added to the radiator this afternoon. It's about halfway up the stick.

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[riotwarrior]

Gosh...sounds like engine is hydrolocking for sure...I"d not be doing that again...not without GPs pulled.

It's more than likely one of three things...

bad HG job and leaking into cyl

cracked head...missed during hg job..making it a bad hg job anyway

Cavitation where sometimes you can stop engine and piston covers where it's leaking and other times not.

Based on he got work done...and sold immediately...

Cavitation...is my WAG

I don't see how OC can leak that much coolant into oil as the oil pressure is greater than water pressure, that usually = oil in coolant not the other way around.

Hope that helps

 

[icanfixall]

From what and how you posted this there could be many reasons for coolant in the oil. But finding the reason will require the engine pulled and torn down completely. Cavitation is a possibility but not a probability yet. A bad head gasket job is likely but not a certainty either. A cracked head is possible but not a positive either. Just too many possible reasons with no front runner pointing to direct at the issue. Removing glow plugs is the best idea right now. No need to run a cylinder full of coolant hydrolocking it. Any chance its been raining and the cowl seal is shot. If so the rain water leaks in and sits on top of the air filter. Then it leaks into the open intake. Then it finds an rear open valve and settles in a cylinder. Then you can't crank it over.

 

[gandalf]

Riotwarrior suggested pulling the glowplugs and seeing whether anything squirts out when you crank the engine. Good idea. BUT, after the glowplugs are pulled, bar the engine over by hand, not with the starter motor. If it is hydrolocked you can actually bend/break things in the engine if you crank with the starter. Crank it by hand, and you have the added advantage that you can watch for water to squirt out, not just look for the wet area. Doing this will also give you a pretty good idea where the problem is, which cylinder.

 

[04_6.0]

It was sitting under a lean too while it was in the yard. And then I drove it into the shop.

Kinda what I was not hoping for I was thinking a bad headgasket job or something but until I open it up I won't know. Can I pull the injectors, pressure the coolant system and find cavitation issues? Of course if there is a bad headgasket job it will do the same thing leak water into the cylinders as well.

I am thinking about calling it quits with this thing and getting my offroad rig back.

 

[Greg5OH]

^i would trade back. Sucks you gotta drive 7 hours to get it! who knwos whats wrong, best case-oil coller needs to be rebuilt again, worst case-cracked heads/cavitation. Then what...
Trade back before its too late.

 

[OLDBULL8]

He changed the oil just before you got there. HE KNOWS WHAT'S WRONG.

You found grayish oil on the stick. THAT'S COOLANT IN THE OIL FOR SURE.

It has a turbo on it. WATER CAN'T LEAK INTO IT FROM THE HOOD.

It slowly turned over then would turn over fine. Hydro locking possibly? YOU CAN BET YOUR SWEET BIPPY IT'S HYDRO LOCKING.

Can a failed oil cooler let this much water into the engine? NO.

I mean it is a lot of extra in there possibly 2-3 gallons. That's about how much water I added to the radiator this afternoon. It's about halfway up the stick. YOU DIDN'T DRIVE IT, IT JUST LEAKED IN. A BAD HG WON'T LEAK THAT MUCH COOLANT IN JUST SETTING THERE.
Trade it back as quick as you can. I would be mad as hell.

What's that about a Jeep? Does it belong to him?

 

[icanfixall]

Well if it was me I sure would be angry that someone fooled me about condition of engine but. If all that work has been done then you have plenty of good parts to swap over to a rebuilt short block. But have the heads checked over for cracks. 2 to 3 gallons wont leak into from a bad head gasket because its too high up in the engine. But a bad oil cooler o ring can because its at the lowest area of the coolant in the block. Mght be worth removing the cooler and having a look see before you try dumping the truck or engine. If the heads were repaired when the engine was still in the truck its very possible a head gasket was damaged when the heads gor installed. Its very tight to do in frame. If the truck is nice enough and the block is wormed just find a short block for it. Rebuild it yourself or buy one done for you. Plenty of good rebuilders out there. Sorry this is happening but you don't know whats wrong yet. The idea the oil ws changed the day you picked it up is telling but still not telling whats wrong.

 

[04_6.0]

The jeep is mine. It's a 95 jeep grand cherokee with a mopar performance 318 with a good cam and a reworked FI system. Made 312 hp to the rear wheels through 1 ton locked axles with 5.13 gears and 40" ltb's. I kept the wheels and tires he got the rest of the jeep in trade for the truck.

Yes I think I have been had on this deal. I'm going to start checking out the engine. Trying to figure out what was wrong with it. I drove it about two miles and let it idle for 10-15 minutes on the test drive. Then I started it drove about 500 ft then let it idle for another 10-15 minutes then drove it into the shop. I hadn't checked the oil since the test drive until I got it back into the shop. So it has about 2.5 miles and 30 minutes of runtime on it.

Can I check for cavitation with the engine still in the truck. Where to start? Should I start a new thread?

 

[riotwarrior]

Keep thread alive...

No real way to differentiate between cavitation and bad HG or cracked head, however based on the level of fluid you are talking about it's likely cavitation as I said before...its' my best WAG...

only way to determine which hole pull gp's and turn over...disconnect FSS while doing this. I had a cracked block about 11 Oclock in the bore when looking down into it and water SHOT out of the GP hole big time like exiting a waterject cutter don't put yer hand over the hole..

I'd recommend pulling all GP's btw.

Can you not swap back?

I think seller is due for a

JM2CW

 

[wildman7798]

Since there are a bunch of new shop receipts I wouldn't hesitate to contact the shop and talk to them and see if they can shed any light on what they found or what they know about it. Of course you don't know the relationship the PO had with the shop and we don't know exactly where you stand with the PO. If it has all gone bad already "on a trade back" and the truck is yours then I would sure contact the shop, you have nothing to lose at that point. If your trade back is still alive, then I probably would leave the shop out of it until your at an end with the PO, as far as cooperation.

I could only add, try to keep a level head and hopefully the PO will do the right thing.

 

[04_6.0]

I called and talked to the PO. He told me that everything was in perfect working order when I left and if anything happened to it after I left his property it was my fault. I ask what if there was a problem with it while it was on his property and he did everything he could to cover it up. He said o well it's a done deal. I have all the cards in my hand. I got the title switched into my name got it registered and put insurance on it. I think I might just go pick it up this weekend....it's still registered, titled, and insure in my name. Tell him I'll make him a smoking deal of $2000. Should be enough to swap in a new longblock. Thoughts.

 

[OLDBULL8]

I called and talked to the PO. He told me that everything was in perfect working order when I left and if anything happened to it after I left his property it was my fault. I ask what if there was a problem with it while it was on his property and he did everything he could to cover it up. He said o well it's a done deal.
It's buyer beware. If you didn't check it out by driving it, it's your's. Of course he new what is wrong. Why would anyone just change the oil just before you picked it up.
Did you cross State lines to pick up the truck?

I have all the cards in my hand. I got the title switched into my name got it registered and put insurance on it.
That act might cause this transaction to get complicated.

I think I might just go pick it up this weekend....it's still registered, titled, and insure in my name.
I think you had better take the Sherriff with you. If you do, it might get ugly.

Tell him I'll make him a smoking deal of $2000. Should be enough to swap in a new longblock.

Think about it. Why would a dishonest person agree to that?
Thoughts.

Those are mine.