New 92 350 Dually :)

[LA350]

Well it is new to me anyway. After much anticipation, I finally picked it up today from my Bro-in-law. It was his father's and due to his health he can not drive it any longer so my wife and I got to bring it home.

It is a 92 supercab F350 XL Dually w/5 speed xmsn, factory dual tanks, and a 4:10 rear w/ 115k miles on the odometer. I was looking through the glove box and found the window sticker, pretty cool . It has the camper package, I guess that mean factory hitch. There is a ball for a gooseneck in the bed too.

My BIL just replaced the motor in the windows replaced as well as the serpentine belt as well as the idler pulleys. He said he was driving it and the Serpentine belt vaporized as he was coming off the highway.

I looked the truck over and while not a showroom beauty it has a good chance to clean up pretty good. The driver side rear fender cracked and had some work done to fix it. It stated quick cold and hot but after a long idle and popping the hood I smelled fuel. I climbed up on the bumper to peer inside and noticed 4 of the injectors were leaking, on was leaking pretty good. Not just wet, but producing some steady drops of fuel.

My FIL didn't drive it much for the past 5 years mainly back and forth to the dump and some short hauls w/ his tractor. So it mainly sat parked. There re some dry rotted vacuum lines my BIL pointed out but he had no idea where they went coming out of the passenger side of the firewall.

I added 2 quarts of oil, filled both tanks, added some 2 cycle, hooked up the trailer that came w/ the truck and headed home 2.5 hours. The truck is basically stock runs great! Sounds even better Plenty of power, 3rd and 4th really show the muscle and 5th is nice for easy cruising. Never knew the big iron trailer was in tow unless I looked out the rear view.

I have to get used to the shifter though. One really has to push up the rpms to get a smooth shift w/ out losing too much momentum. Also, it has a tendency to want to hop in 1st and reverse.

I am pretty pleased w/ it and damned happy/proud to have it. I would like to open up the exhaust and add a decent air filter to help it breathe. I was thinking a small body lift too...But I need to tend to the issues at hand first and clear up some of the cosmetic details like removing all of the old tint that is crumbling off the windows give it a nice bath and compound off the old oxidized paint, change the oil, fuel filter, ect.

Any other suggestions for the mighty F350


Thanks!!
Trey

 

[argve]

with the price of fuel I would attend to the leaking lines first - by the sounds of it a Fuel Return Line Kit from your local diesel shop should fix you up - they typically go for around 25-35 bucks depending on whom you purchase it from - the kit will have new return line caps, o-rings, fuel line, clamps and copper washers for under the injectors (there is no need to pull the injectors to replace the washers).

I would change all the fluids and pay special attention to the coolant and what type you install. You want to get some SCA's or DCA in the cooling system to help stay off cavitation - these IDI's have a nasty habit of cavitation failure.

SCA = Supplemental coolant additive
DCA = Diesel Coolant Additive.

Much reading about coolant here in the forum.

 

[suv7734]

Cool
As Travis said the first thing will be to get the return lines and o-rings changed out as well as all fluids and filter so you know where you're at. The vacuum lines are most likely for the HVAC system and are easily/economically replaced. Get yourself a beverage of choice and sit down in front of the old 'puter and you'll have lots to read about here. Do be careful with beverages and food around your keyboard though since some of the 'goings on' can get pretty funny/strange.

 

[Agnem]

I'd check all the rubber for dry rot. Replace what you can afford to. Throwing new parts at a new ride is never a bad thing. Congrats.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Sounds like you did good on the truck. Just one thing to remember is that you'll probley want a muffler if you open up that exhaust. They tend to sound like a 350 chevy gasser with open headers when they are just straight piped. I have mine that way but I like it that way & no one in my area really minds. You could also do the soup bowl delete mod, that will help it get a little more air. Also won't hurt to get a pyrometer to keep an eye on your EGTs when your towing or toying around. Since it's been sitting for so long I'd check out the brakes really good. Mine had sat around for most of it's life so when I got it I found out one of the brake lines had rotted out due to the rust & I had a caliper that was sticking. Those are just a few things I can think of off the top of my head.

 

[LA350]

Thanks for the comments so far!!

I crawled under the truck and looked at the exhaust and from the muffler it looks to be 3.5" but from the muffler to the manifold it is much smaller diameter pipe w/ a lot of bends over and around the various components. I would like to see something more free flowing.

What type of filter element is best for replacing the stock paper deal. I heard that the K&N stock replacement isn't the best choice.

Brakes stop great! Almost too good, chucked myself tight into my seat belt @ the first stop sign I approached. I learned quick that I need not stomp the brake inorder to slow that rig down, a easy touch is the best approach. I will crawl back underneath to look at everything.

I did notice a oil leak from the plug possibly. I will find out later when I drain the juice. I planned to swap all the fluids as funds are availible, beginning w/ the oil first then, coolant, rear end, tranny, ect. I read about the cavitation problem so I will pay particular attention to that.

I was told the A/C compresser was shot and not to turn on the A/C. Would anyone hazard a guess how much that would cost to replace? These were R12 right so I would have to convert to 134, correct? Anything to watch out for there?

The serpentine belt had been thrown twice. Would that be due to the failing of the idler/tension pulleys failing? I'd hate to have another get tossed if I can avoid it.

It felt funny this AM driving my little S10 after driving the 350 most of the day yesterday. The clutch was driving me crazy and the brakes needed more foot, although it slipped through the gears a WHOLE lot easier. I was missing the engine music though.

Thanks again, any suggestions are welcome!

Trey

 

[2manydsls]

The clutch problem might be caused by the fuel leakage. It tends to drain down the back of the engine and gets on the clutch disk. I had that problem and once I took care of a leaking injection pump seal and slipped the clutch a few times it quit jerking.
Ross

 

[LA350]

The 350's clutch doesn't slip, I don't think anyway. It is just different than the one one the Chevy. I had grown warm to the one in the 350 and switching back into the S10 was different for the first few tries going up the road.

But you may be correct though w/ the fuel causing an issue I might not be familier w/ due to the newness of the truck to me. I will keep that in my mind. I need to scrape up the 45.00 bucks for the return fuel kit ASAP, as it was causing me to be a bit anxious!

Thanks!

 

[Agnem]

The great K&N debate will continue forever. You'll find folks who tell you to and not to use them. The choice is yours.

 

[Dirtleg]

If the A/C compressor is locked up and you turned it on that would throw the serp belt off most likely. Probably damage the tensioner in the process.

I replaced my compressor in August.

A reman from Advance was ~$175. It came with the clutch assembly.

It doesn't make sense to have the system open and not replace the Filter/Drier and orifice tube for another ~$35.

Change out all of the o-rings on the hoses for another $5.

After that you need to leak test it with nitrogen at about 100psi to make sure the system is airtight.

Then once you're certain there are no leaks vacuum it down to 29" before adding the gas(134a) and oil which will cost approximately $25-30.

Don't buy the chrome scissor looking tool that is supposed to work on Ford fuel and A/C line spring clips. It works on neither. There are other tools made of plastic, OEM brand I think, that work.

Mine has been working great since I fixed it. Well worth the cost of repair.

None of this is hard to do. It only get complicated due to the need for the A/C gauges, the vacuum pump, nitrogen, and correct fittings to make it all work together. That is why it is impossible to say how much a new compressor will cost. If you know someone in the A/C business you can most likely get the nitrogen and vacuuming and charging done for free. If you have to pay a shop to do that part of it who knows. They all differ.

I had a guy tell me it would cost $260 (4 hours $65 hr)+ gas to vacuum and charge my A/C on my car last spring. I was just replacing the lines with flexible ones to clear my turbo. I ended up using a buddies vacuum pump and cylinder to scavenge the R12 (yes original), changed out the lines, checked for leaks, vacuumed it and we recharged it with my original R12 in 1 1/2 hrs. All he wanted was a 12 pack. I got lucky however.

Now I own the gauges and when the need arises I'll get a vacuum pump. Sorry for the long and slightly hijackish reply. Just hoping to help you avoid getting jacked over on the A/C if possible.

Definitely change out the tensioner too.

And most importantly. Congratulations on your new truck

 

[LA350]

Wow, what great info!

I think I will start saving now. By this summer I will have the cash, hopefully anyway

I believe the both idler pulleys and the tensioner were replaced, I will need to check the receipt.

Thanks for everyones great words and help

Trey

 

[poolguy]

Let me save you a lot of time, agrivation, and money- - - -












Sell it to me!

 

[towcat]

Wow, what great info!

I think I will start saving now. By this summer I will have the cash, hopefully anyway

I believe the both idler pulleys and the tensioner were replaced, I will need to check the receipt.

Thanks for everyones great words and help

Trey

trey-
can you take and post a pic of your current tensioner setup?
there is a update available for the serp motors but it's not cheap. the newfound peace of mind is priceless though. Also, pay close attention to the pullies while the motor is running and see if any look like they are out of round. I have frequently found the vac pump pulley is the culprit and after replacement, many belt throwing trucks are now quite well behaved

 

[LA350]

Thanks! I will try to get a pic soon, my camera took a dump, but I will try something.

I am going to tackle the return fuel lines this weekend. I was driving it yesterday and the fuel was leaking pretty good from top of one of the injectors.

Thanks again

 

[jimraelee]

Wow, what great info!

I think I will start saving now. By this summer I will have the cash, hopefully anyway

AC is of great help in the winter with the defrost...