New 1992 idi have some questions

ArcticCat843

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First of all hello to everyone. I've been a member on here for a long time but I don't think I've ever posted. I have done a lot of reading and used a lot of info from this site in the past so I'm hoping you guys can help me out with a few things.

I just purchased A new to me 1992 idi eclb truck. It has 79000 miles on it and I got it for a steal but it does have a few problems. Most of the problems I have found answers to by reading but I have a few questions.

1) fuel system
The issue I'm having is the truck is loosing prime when it sits for more than a hour or so and takes a lot of cranking to get started. It is almost impossible to start in the cold because of this. It has a entire new glow plug system so I don't think that is the issue. It will crank and crank and not even smoke at all then as soon as it starts smoking it fires right up which tells me no fuel.
What I would like todo to resolve this is replace the system at least up to the injection pump. I want to run all new rubber line with a electric fuel pump. What I'm thinking about doing is buying a holly red pump and mounting it on the frame rail right after the switching valve thing. Any reason that would not work? Any reason I can't use that pump? What size line should I run? I should be able to just put a barb fitting on the injection pump inlet and run it right to that right? No regulator needed.
My next issue is the return line. What kind of pressures are we talking about in this line? Is there a reason I can't run a new rubber line for this also? Basically every steel line on this truck is falling apart and I'd rather just start over if possible.

2). Bed removal
This one has been fun. So I've decide due to the amount of work I'm going todo under this truck and the fact that I want to look in both fuel tanks I would be better off removing the bed. My plan was to unbolt it and lift it Up with my tractor. Well, turns Out it has other ideas. I spend a good hour working on it tonight and so far I have 1 out of what I think is 4 bolts out. I need to pick up some more Sawzall blades. Besides those 4 bolts and the fuel filler necks is there anything else I need to take of before I lift the bed? Where is the electrical connected for the tail lights? I have a mess of wires from the trailer plug (which I will fix) but I don't see the plug going to the tails.

3) performance mods
I'm use to driving my dads 96 powerstroke so you can see my issue here. This truck is just slow and feels gutless without a turbo so I'm hoping to at least help that a little. As of right now I don't want to dump a ton of money into it so a turbo kit is out of the question. So far I have purchased a dynomax full exhaust and I plan to turn the pump up half a turn or so. I have a pyro on order and it already has a trans temp gauge (and a freshly rebuild trans). What else can I do to this engine to help it out a little? I really would like to put a open air filter (like you would see on a hotrod or something) but I have yet to find anyone that has done that. The stock one looks like garbage and seems to always be in the way. Any recommendations for that? Also I have read that there are two screws you have to turn up on the pump yet the only one I'm aware of is the one behind the little diamond cover. Is that the only thing I need to turn up or is there other stuff I can do to the pump? Any other someone cheap things I can do to it to get a little more power?

And the last one for now
4) passenger side door
It won't open. You have no idea the anger this has caused me. Lol I'm getting really close to sawzalling the door panel off on the inside and getting a new one from the junkyard. Both the inside and outside handle feel like they are working and moving the latch but the door won't open. I can't get the door panel off without the door open so I can't get in there to see what is going on. I guess I could take the pass side seat out and it might come off then but I really don't want todo that. Anyone have any great tips to suggestions to get this stupid thing open?


I have a few other projects that I'm doing all at the same time. Shocks, brake lines, fuel tank straps, all new fluids, rear wheels seals, new tires Ect ect. What I'm hoping to get is a reliable tow rig truck without having a lot of money into it. I will take some pictures and post them For you guys one day this week.

Thanks in advance for any advice and info.
 

icanfixall

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WElcome to your first posting. Your loosing the fuel out of either the fuel filter or the injection pump. Look under the injection pump for a wet spot. The pump can leake at 3 places. The line where the fuel comes in has a seal in that brass fitting and they harden up and cause leaks. It could be the plunger seal on the drivers side of the pump has failed. Or it can be the main shaft seal internally to the pump. Because your not seeing any smoke when cranking tells me the fuel is leaking out. Then you crank long to get fuel back up to the pump. As for the door not opening I can only say remove the seat. The door panel has screws near the bottom and one screw in the center hand hold of the door arm rest and one more probably hidden near the top front corner where the panel meets the dash. Look at the drivers side door when its open to see all the screws. A Holly Red pump installed where you suggest if fine. Thats where I had mine for several hundred thousand miles. Now its going to be noisy so use some rubber to insulate it from the frame so the noise wont travel. Some 1/4 inch rubber helps but it will never be like the factory oem mechanical pump.
 

OLDBULL8

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I have a 92 4 door and the back drivers side door wouldn't open. The lock plunger didn't have the extension on it and the screw was hidden down, the lock screw would hit and wouldn't let it unlock, finely found it and put the extension plunger on it. Could that be your problem?
 

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