Need good affordable aftermaket filter and water separator

G.W BUFFALO

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So i'm plotting out a new fuel system for my truck, rite now i'm running just a single side tank and it's leaking a bit when the tanks full.. So my plan is to install a single 32 gallon bronco tank in the rear, run all steel braided hoses and use an aftermarket filter and water separator. I'd also like to mount them down on the frame some how and reuse my existing aftermarket E-pump.. So whats out there thats affordable for a filter separator setup's and how do you guy's mount yours, pump before or after of the filter?? Also is it safe to run stainless braided hose the lenghth of the truck or should i hard line the tank and only use braided hos for the conections?? Don't be afraid to post pics of your aftermarket setup..
 

bghnkinf350

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Are you still going to run the factory filter too?

I am running a Racor 500 I found at the junkyard - $20! Keep your eyes open. There are many pieces floating around on CL.
 

subway

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i have one of those goldenrod filter setups on my WMO filter rig. i have thought about using one in the truck to stop using the stock filters that are getting more expensive by the day. you would have to adapt it down from the 1" inlet/outlet and find a way to mount it. it unfortunatly does not have any bolt mounting bosses, some u bolt clamps should take care of that though.

you would loose your water in fuel light unless you did some modification to it. midnightriders runs them in his truck if i remember right and swears by them. its nice to actaully see into the filter and be able to see what is going on before you even open it up.
 

BioFarmer93

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I just use a cleanable 40micron see-through chunk stopper before the pump, and where the stock filter head and filter would mount, I fabbed a bracket and mounted a 10micron Goldenrod spin-on waterblock like this-

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_910858_910858

Since I have a homemade fuel heater, and plugged off the LeakMaster return line to the OEM filterhead, I have had nothing but trouble-free performance from this setup. I've been through several e-pumps because of home brew vicosity, and finally have an industrial multi-fuel rated Walbro that provides 9psi at idle and 7 to 7.5psi at WOT..
 

G.W BUFFALO

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Well if the goldenrod will work i think ill go that route, cheap and filter's are avalible rite thru tractor supplie. I'll just have to come up with a slick way to mount it, the 17 micron filtraction is enough rite??
 

BioFarmer93

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No i plan on ditching the whole mess under the hood and running just a frame setup.. Would this mounted on the frame work, or do i need something better??

http://www.tractorsupply.com/fuel-p...ck-absorbing-fuel-filter-0189529#BVRRWidgetID

GW-
The see through one is 17micron and the spin-on is 10micron- both are water blocks... One thing to consider about the frame rail mount, is that it will only need tending when you're out on the road in the rain. It's a great place for e-pumps, but I'd personally do a reconsideration of its native qualifications for filter installation. (sorry- it just happened)
The heads come in 1"NPT & 3/4" NPT and are easy to plumb down to 3/8" hose barb, and if you are interested I'll take a couple photo's of the bracket adapter I made for the existing underhood filterhead bracket.

NO! 17 micron is NOT enough!
 

G.W BUFFALO

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What should be my final micron count and why should'nt i ount the filter on the frame?? My main thing is i want it out from under the hood..
 

G.W BUFFALO

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Im sorry that confuses me, but what is a good final count, and is 10 micron better or worse than 17 micron?? I still have lots to learn i geuss..
 

gandalf

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I have a Goldenrod on a frame rail mount. It works well. My only concern is road hazard. I have a very temporary stone guard, badly in need of a much better one. I made a mounting bracket from a Simpson StrongTie, and used U-bolts to secure the filter. You can also see the brass fitting necking down to the 3/8th barbs.


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BioFarmer93

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Why out from under the hood??
I think I read here in a post a few weeks ago that the PSD filters go to 6micron... Do we need that? I don't know.. It's hard to sort fact from opinion on here sometimes, as many times opinion is offered as fact. Why not on the frame rail? Besides the scenario I already offered, imagine a plastic (or glass?) bowl hanging down in an area where all manner of road debri can reach up and smack it. If you go with the spin on, at least it's a little more bullet-proof down if mounted down in that area.
 

G.W BUFFALO

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I'll build a skid plate for it if need be so frame mount will be fine i think. My main question is should i run the 17 micron filter water block in conjunction with the 10 micron spin on or maybe in conjunction with a 495 goldenrod wich is 4 micron?? Also will my facuet pump be able to pull thru them or should i use it pushing thru them???
 

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1 micron is 1millionth of a meter, so the lower the number the lower the particle size that can pass through. if you have a 4 mic filter nothing larger than 4 mic should be able to pass through, it would stop all the 5 mic, 10 mic, 20 mic etc nasties from gettting though. at least in theory, manufacturing tolerances will vary a bit though thats why true absolute filters are so expensive. the goldenrod housing is good for multiple differant cartriges to choose from.

about the smallest micron you can see with the naked eye is 100 mic.

i will have to do some searching but i "thought"the 7.3 filteres were in the 10-15 mic range and 6.9 were in the 6 mic range.
 

G.W BUFFALO

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So maybe i should run a waterblock glodenrod 496 "wich is 17 mic" pre pump and a goldenon rod 495 "wich is 4 mic" aft pump?? Or maybe there is just a better setup out there, i'm just looking for an afordable setup. Does'nt have to be a goldenrod..
 
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