Metal shavings injection pump: 7.3 idi no start

[Witt]

I'll start by saying that I was driving down the road (about 45 mph) and my truck sputtered a little bit and then just quit. Then it would not start again (no smoke when turning over). My roadside troubleshooting consisted of changing fuel filter and running a temp jumper from positive battery term. To injection pump. No luck..

Got a tow. Then I traced fuel path to lift pump. And broke loose the hardline intake by my fuel filter= good pressure. Next, output from filter= good pressure. Cracked injector line= nothing.

Now comes the problem... I took the solenoid off of the injection pump to test the function of it, worked fine but saw many metal shavings on the magnet. Any ideas???

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[shawn deere]

Runnin waste oil?
How many miles on ip?
Im no expert, but i would say a new ip is in order

conastogadiesel
Typ4
R and D idi performance

Are the only places to get one

Good luck!
Im sure someone more educated will chim in

 

[pelky350]

Did you fill fuel filter before installing? If not filled extended cranking times will be needed to fill filter and prime system. No smoke no fuel. If you did a jumper wire to the injection pump was it for sure on the fuel on/off there Is two prongs one for timing advance, one for fuel, did you hear a small but noticeable click of the silinoid activating when applying voltage to it? How old is the pump metal shavings there would possibly mean a faulty filter(not very liklley I wouldn't think) letting stuff through from bad fuel sometime, possibly shavings from injection pump internals I wouldn't know what else would cause that. Any symptoms before this? Like longer cranking when warm before starting, smoking all the time, running rough etc? Usually you get some signs before a pump goes bad. How much fuel is in the truck? Less than a 1/4 tank could mean that your shower head in the tank broke off and it started sucking air causing it to die on you? All simple things first pumps are kinda expensive but buy the looks of it it maybe what is gonna need to happen I wouldn't want those shavings making there way into my cylinders or at least remove* and clean the pump and line and injectors? That much maybe clogged the injectors? Not sure if that's possibly but maybe?

 

[Witt]

Ok guys. First thanks for the responses. Here's a few answers. 1. I definitely filled the new filter up with clean fuel prior to cranking but probably didn't get all of the air out yet but bled it several times. I'll get it out if I can diagnose the issue for certain. No big.

Next the pump is remanned about 3 years ago and I probably have less that 5k on it.

Next I had about a quarter tank but then switch tanks and my back tank was full. Good thought about the shower head in the tank but I am seriously doubting that because the lift pump has plenty of pressure.

I've moved on from thinking that metal shavings are a show stopper unless the got in the cylinders, as you said but, I didn't see any signs of that being the case when I was running the truck.

Sorry I skipped a couple things. Yes when I ran the jumper to the timing nodes on the pump solenoid there was a noticeable click which makes me think that it is still good however I'm not 100% because I've heard that those remanned pumps will often come with the original solenoid if the bench test is done and it passes. So, unfortunately I'm thinking I just got a bad pump unless someone has another cheap thing to try. One thing is for sure I'm not thinking that I'll risk a remanned pump a second time....

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Most people do just half of the job when going through theses pumps. Like others, I had my experience with a "reman" pump. It only lasted a couple of years and was done. I went with a Moose Jr. from Conestoga Diesel and have been happy with it. I won't spend my money with anyone other that the three mentioned by shawn deere earlier when it comes to my fuel system or turbo.

 

[Macrobb]

I agree on the pump, but...
If the pump's shot /anyway/... Go ahead and pull it. Remove the 'cone' at the back of the ip(allen screw locks it in place, then it just screws out). There is a filter screen in there.

If there are metal shavings, perhaps that screen got clogged?

Also, you might try just plain taking it apart, cleaning it, looking for obviously bad things and putting it back together. You might be able to revive it.
(note: googling for Stanadyne DB2 Manual will give you a full teardown and rebuild PDF)

One thing you can also do with it on the bench is to setup a can of diesel, a little electric fuel pump, and turn it by hand while feeding it fuel(with the FSS activated with a jumper). You can bleed it and test that it's working before reinstalling it.

Also, you can do the same test, but add an injector line and injector to the pump, and watch for fuel being sprayed out. Mind that turning the pump with an injector connected will require quite a bit of force as it builds up pressure. With the 8 lines disconnected, it should turn more or less freely by hand.

 

[Witt]

Macrobb- thanks so much you sound really knowledgeable and I'm going to download that PDF and start studying. Should be and interesting weekend. If there's anything else that pops in your head for tips and tricks. I've been watching videos on it all day and I've done it once before in a shop but I'm working out of my parking lot. Ha ha

 

[Macrobb]

While you are taking it out of the truck, remove all the lines first. Then, turn the key on and crank(Make sure the accelerator is floored). Watch for fuel squirting out of the fittings on the back of the IP.

If you *do* get fuel coming out... try putting the lines back, crack the end at the injector and try to bleed the system. Then, tighten them down and try to start.

 

[Witt]

Ok macrobb. I did that earlier this afternoon. That exactly scenario actually and not a drop came out.

But hey man, quick question:I've never torn one apart so I'm wondering where the screen is located?

 

[Macrobb]

Should be right at the rear, where the fuel comes in(inside the "cone" piece)

 

[Witt]

Disregard I know where it is now. Dumb question.

 

[Witt]

Thanks a lot macrobb. You're the man

 

[Macrobb]

Well... What happened?

 

[Witt]

I had to work all weekend. I'm just headed home now. I'll probably get into it this week.

 

[Agnem]

No real point in proceeding with that IP. There is a very real possibility the head and rotor seized. You can confirm this by cranking while looking through the triangular side cover. If you don't see any movement there, the pump is junk, and not a satisfactory core for a rebuild from me.