messed with timing not sure if even close

[9779scott]

93 F350 with the first generation banks turbo. EGT's were always good but power was alittle low and fuel millage not good. I have been getting between 11 and 12.5. Maybe I am just used to my PSD and 19 MPG. I advanced the timing about a dimes width. At an idle and above 1700 it sounds great but between those two it sounds like its going to come apart. Did I go to far? What are the possible bad outcomes if I did go to far? My ass o meter says it has more power and EGT's seem to be lower then before but that may just be my mind messing with me.

 

[riotwarrior]

if too far advanced can burn up GP's and stuff...not nice!

best bet...time it with a meter properly.

IT IS A DIMES THICKNESS btw....not width!

 

[9779scott]

Sorry I meant thickness. Will it kill GP's or melt them? I would love to have it timed correctly but I can not find a shopp that does it correctly, as we all know there are not alot of shops that know how to deal with these trucks nor want to.

 

[Wyreth]

It will melt the GP tips and throw metal slag through your turbo, damaging the turbine wheel. Plus alot of other fun damage along the way.

There is a trick I used quite a few times before I got my meter, it should get you pretty close and mostly keep you away from being too far advanced: Use the cold start advance. (unplug it, and use a long hotwire from the battery to switch it on and off) When you're close to where you need to be, you will hear a noticeable difference in the sound it makes while idling. With the advance on, it should sound like your old powerstroke and have a pronounced rattle to it. However when you unplug it, that rattle should go away. Leaving it sounding mellow and growly. If the rattle doesn't go away, then your too far advanced. If you don't get that rattle, then you still have room for advance.

It takes a while, and is pretty subjective, so err on the side of caution.

You may also want to invest in a ferret adapter and timing light if you plan to keep an IDI around. It is not a very large investment, actually not much more than a shop would charge to look at it, and then you will know where your timing is at.

Your MPG does sound a little low for unloaded. How many miles are on the fuel system? What are you running for fuel addative? What are your EGT's?
And you might also want to try filling your fuel filter with atf, run it for 45 seconds, then let it sit and steep overnight. That cleans out your IP and injectors rather well.

 

[9779scott]

Egt's are well within range. I would guees the fuel system has the same as the truck which is 230ish. I have done the ATF thing like a year ago. Fuel addatives I have tried all produce the same results, Lucas, Howes, PS

 

[Wyreth]

oh wow, If you're still running the original IP and injectors. They're done. No really, they're done. The IP and injectors are "medium wear" parts, rated for 100k or so. Most people here will tell you they're ready for replacement by 125k max.

That's likely where your getting your problems with it running between 650 and 1700.

The ATF trick really cannot be done too often, so it's not going to hurt to try it again. I had to do it 4 days in a row to get my advance piston ungummed. Luckly it actually worked for me. You are running an additive for lubrication every tank arn't you? Board wisdom says ULSD will kill these trucks prematurely without it.

 

[93fordturbo]

So I can buy a timing light? And that will get it timed pretty close? Is it a special timing light? Where can I get one. Also, when I got my pump redone, the shop who built it said to advance mine about an eighth inch past the normal
mark...is that not correct?

 

[Wyreth]

So I can buy a timing light? And that will get it timed pretty close? Is it a special timing light? Where can I get one. Also, when I got my pump redone, the shop who built it said to advance mine about an eighth inch past the normal
mark...is that not correct?

You can use any timing light that has an advance setting. However you will need a "Ferret adapter" in order to use it. It clamps onto the #1 or #4 injector line and converts the fuel pulse into a signal the timing light can pick up. A ferret will run you about $200 IIRC, I havn't looked for one in a long time.

As far as installing the new pump. The shop knows how much they altered the timing calibration VS what it used to be. Or at least I would hope so, So the directions they gave you should be ok. Personally without a meter, I would install it like a 1/16th of an inch, and use the cold advance trick, checking then moving the pump until it rattled then stopped. But that's just because I'm paranoid. (never start the truck unless the pump is tightened down, and never move it while it is running. You will destroy it, and possibly get hurt very badly)

 

[9779scott]

I cant say for sure that they are the original pump and injectors as I have only had the truck about a year. I dont really want to spend the money on a ferret adaptor because I am hoping to get into a PSD CC LB with the 6 speed in a year or so '' divorce is a *****''. I think i will back the timing down alittle and see what it sounds like just to be on the safe side.