Looking for the"Lucky Mod"

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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:yell:
Looking for Mel or Jim with the Lucky Mod on the DMF. I'm tearing mine off tomorrow to fix the rear main oil leak and gonna do the mod when I have it off.
The setup has about 86,000 miles and is noisy on startup and shutdown. Need some help and guidance on this one.:hail :

Thanks,

Ron;burnout
 

Mike

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Alright,

Which one of you BOOBs can I recruit to condense all that info into a tech article, thats too good to just let die in a thread. It needs to be preserved and stuck into the Tech Articles forum.
 

towcat

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95 stroker-
now you see why we needed a "faq" reference section. Thanks for putting one up. Problem now is finding a BOOB with the time commitment and computer savvy to edit all this stuff. Also, it may be a really good idea to have the submissions "footnoted" for deeper reference just in case there may be a dispute on the facts.
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Thanks Turbo,

Got her about ready to split open and see what I have to deal with. First things first, gotta deal with the oil leaking....re rear main seal. Then off to the mods.

Ron
 

Agnem

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If you get stuck, give me a phone call. My contact info is on the Brotherhood contact list under Pennsylvania. Here .
 

F350camper

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Originally posted by 95_stroker
Alright,

Which one of you BOOBs can I recruit to condense all that info into a tech article, thats too good to just let die in a thread. It needs to be preserved and stuck into the Tech Articles forum.

Mel, isnt this the article you were going to submit? Or was that one geared toward driveline removal?
 

Dsl_Dog_Treat

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Thanks Mel,

Just might give you a shout later on after I get alittle more work done on the ole gal.... ie. rear main.:smash:
I took some photos and will post them afterwards tonite and will give you a shout to see what you think. The DMF was all intact no Autolite floating around but there is a great deal of play between the 2 discs. I think I am gonna do the mod but have got to deal with the engine, whether to rebuild or just run her out till she :puke: 's.
That's the other issue that is getting to me as we are gonna try to make the rally this year and not looking forward to dragging the ole beast home if she does as Darrin had spoke about convoying down.
:peelout
I can't really afford to have the truck down as it is my primary driver and need to have her back together tomorrow afternoon.

Talk at ya later

Ron
-Down
 

Mike

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Originally posted by F350camper
Mel, isnt this the article you were going to submit? Or was that one geared toward driveline removal?

The one Mel has spoke to me about covers the Fuel System. But if he has udder good stuff I'll take it. :D
 

Mike

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Originally posted by towcat
95 stroker-
now you see why we needed a "faq" reference section. Thanks for putting one up. Problem now is finding a BOOB with the time commitment and computer savvy to edit all this stuff. Also, it may be a really good idea to have the submissions "footnoted" for deeper reference just in case there may be a dispute on the facts.

10-4, ask and ye shall recieve if it is an attainable goal here. I drug my feet on the Tech section mostly trying to figger out the best way to do it, I hope it at least for the time being meets expectations.

Mike
 

argve

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TDS won't allow you repost or link to their picture gallery. You will have to post them here within the thread... :sorry:
 

turbo69

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I believe that was Lucky's invent there...

Maybe he waon't mind somebody hacking it up a little...

BTW-

I went ahead and copied it to here, just in case...hope no one minds

Quoted from Lucky---
NOW FOR THE FIX


Changing a Dual-Mass to a Single-Mass Flywheel


When taking out the flywheel be careful as this thing is heavy, around 65lbs

One thing if for any reason you have any concerns don't try this . This is at your own risk, Mel Agne has done this conversion and so far it has worked out great, I have not put this in my truck as of yet but have it ready as my flywheel is making noise and I have this ready when I do change the clutch out I will change this out also. I am not afraid of using this fix, I feel really safe doing this to my truck.

I strongly suggest you drill out the bolt holes on a GOOD drill press to make sure the holes are straight. It would not be a bad idea to check the balance after putting it back together before installing it.

There is a guy on E-Bay that has made a DMF hub that dose the very same thing I have done and he wants $200 plus shipping for the hub, that is where I got my idea and tore a flywheel apart and discovered this trick This fix will cost you whatever the price of the 6 grade 8 X 2" fine threaded bolts & lock nuts and about an hour of your time drilling out the holes and bolting it all back together once you have the flywheel out.

After removing the flywheel take it all apart and I do mean all apart, remove everything, springs, friction plates and take the hub that bolts to the crank off, 2 small countersunk screws and remove everything in there also, there are some friction plates in it also.

The part that the pressure plate bolts to, the clutch plate, has 6 holes in the center that also bolts to the flywheel hub, this hub has 6 blind threaded holes that needs to be drilled all the way through I drilled them out to 3/8 even though they were threaded, I thought 3/8 X 2" fine threaded grade 8 bolts would be the right size and would match the holes in the ring gear plate better. , becareful when removing the hub plate that has the blind threaded holes as it is mounted to a center that is a roller bearing and you might pull the bearing apart. If indeed you do pull the bearing apart you will need to put the ball bearings back in as to line up everthing. Don't worry about the bearing as it will serve no purpose after you bolt the whole thing together.

If you notice on the plate that has the ring gear there are 9 holes drilled through it. 6 of the holes are smaller and will almost line up with the 6 in the hub you just drilled, you now have to drill the holes in the ring gear plate to match the ones in the hub you just drilled. I did this by bolting the 2 part hub back together on the ring gear plate so the clutch plate would line up true and then put 3 smaller diameter bolts, 5/16" bolts through every other hole I drilled out in the hub and through the smaller holes in the ring gear plate to line every thing up. I ran a 3/8 drill down to drill out 3 of the holes in the ring gear plate, I then put the 3/8 bolts in the 3 holes I just drilled out and tightened them then drilled out the other 3 holes. I put all grade 8 bolts in and used lock nuts, but do not use the ones with plastic in them but all metal locknuts, tourque the nuts to 40 lbs.

The 9 bolts that bolt the flywheel to the crankshaft also goes through the ring gear plate and the clutch plate, the hub now bolts to the ring gear plate so everything is bolted together to make it a single mass.
No more noise and you can still use you stock clutch setup. Hope this is of some value to you. Let me know if you use this and how you like it.
If you have any questions please fell free to ask.




Jim
 

Agnem

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Take pictures! And if Jim doesn't want to, I'll take up the task of writing the article and submitting it, but I'll need lots of pictures, since I didn't take any when I did mine.

FYI, when I did my DMF, it had a lot of play in it (about 2 inches worth) but no visual indications anything was broken. When I took it apart, I found plastic (yes! PLASTIC) pieces in it that had broken. These appeared to have been washers that were part of some kind of clutch package in the center of the DMF. There is so much crap in there, you won't believe it when you get it apart.
 

F350camper

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Originally posted by Agnem
...FYI, when I did my DMF, it had a lot of play in it (about 2 inches worth) but no visual indications ...

Mel, I thought this is when you had put together a driveline removal article. No? I just seem to remember you saying that you had a big write up on the driveline and you were gonna submit it to TDS as an article. Whatever happened to that thing? Or am I just making autolite up again?
 

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