Looking for a dodge and have questions

Cincinnati Guy

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kas83

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I've got a 95 with 240k miles on it right now, setup just like that truck. Only reason I'm looking to get rid of it is for a crew cab for the extra room.

Autos are notorious for not being able to handle the torque of the Cummins. If you start modding it, the stock torque converter will need to be replaced at some point. The motors respond so well to minor mods, it's unreal. So, plan on at least a quality, low stall single disc from DTT or the like, and a high pressure valvebody. A single disc can handle alot, but if you plan on going all out, you might want to step up to the triple disc and be done with it.

If you can get the info, make sure the dowel pin has been tabbed. It's an alignment dowel for the front timing case that's been known to work it's way out and drop into the geartrain on the front of the motor. Check the AFC housing and tamper proof screw on the pump to see if it's been tampered with. The truck looks to be fairly stock, but you never know. Being a 95 with a 160 pump, it's going to feel sluggish if it is indeed stock, and will only run up to about 2400 rpm under load. If the truck doesn't do that, you've got one that has been modded to some extent.

Check wheel bearings all the way around, track bar condition, looseness of the steering box and all linkages, and the steering shaft itself. If the truck has cruise, but cruise is inop, check the vacuum line that goes to the actuator under the left side battery tray to see if it's melted or broke. If it is, use it as a bargaining tool to knock the price down, as it's a $.02 fix to do yourself. It will have a carrier bearing for the rear drive shaft, and cv joint in the front 'shaft, check for play and wear, as well as all the u-joints. Test the 4wd, making sure the front axle actuator works. An easy fix is a Posi-lok actuator, which I have, but some don't like the looks of it. Also check the rear pinion for excessive play with that many miles. My Dana 70 gave up the ghost at 235k miles, worn out, so I replaced it with a Dana 80.

Anyways, that should be enough to get you started. Hope it helps.
 

1320Cummins

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I can't see the add????? Again, did you buy? What are the specs on the truck? I am currently looking to replace my 94 IDI with a 96 or 97 reg cab 2wd auto 2500 Ram.
I have found the major weak link in the stock auto to be the valve body. Stock VB will not allow the pressure needed to keep the trans alive with mods.

2001 in my sig has 133,000 miles on its original trans and TC. I changed the VB to an after market unit at about 95k and upped the power to over 450 at the same time. It has been trouble free ever since.

My dad is at 140,000 on his all original 2001 auto using a 60hp Edge EZ since 80k.
 

argve

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wow missed this post when it first happened.... So did you pick it up?

Yes the auto trans behind a cummins is not a good idea. When I was looking for my first Dodge I did a lot of reading and learned that the auto trans was rated for 5hp under the hp rating of the engine.... man does that sound like a planned failure or what... So I went with the 5 speed manual tranny. Yes I had some problems but my engine wasn't stock in the least. the manual trannies have a problem with the 5th gear nut coming loose and allowing the 5th gear to slide back on the main shaft to where it won't engage into 5th. now parts don't or can't fall off they will just be loose on the shaft. You can fix this by installing a press fit gear on the shaft - the OEM gear is a slip fit so it allows the gear to rock on the splines a bit which will back off the nut holding it in place.
 

argve

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That sounds about right because the book value is low in the eyes of the bank, they look at it as they will have to take it back and then try to sell it when you don't or can't make the payments. Not to say you would but in the bank's eyes this is how they see things. Now they would probably loan you 35k on a new truck in the drop of a hat even if you could not afford it.... because there is also the thing of how much will they make off the interest.... interest on a 35K loan is much much more than that on a 5k loan so they are also looking at it in the sense of how much money will we make if the payments are run all the way out.....

I have seen a lot of people including myself do a budget and then go to get a vehicle that is in their price range only to find out that they won't loan on that vehicle but they tell ya not a problem just find a vehicle with less than this many miles and less than this many years old at almost triple the price and well loan ya the money.... And I would stand there telling them that's nice but my budget say I can only afford this much - they don't hear it.....

Sorry bout that but that is the way things are....

If you want something that old you will just have to save the money up to buy it cash on the barrel head.
 

wpfd571

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yes its much easier. the banks are not even thinking about giving risky loans with the bad ecomony, sure glad we gave them all that money to bail them out, its sure helping all of us working class people
 

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