Knock Knock

Kalashnikov · Jan 8, 2013

RLDSL said:
When you get things going , get rid of that oil cooler and put one on with AN fittings.. These engines ave too much pressure for a standard worm gear clamp. The only thing that kept it on this long was the hose, once the hose weakened it was a disaster waiting to happen. There are some clamps out there that would hold with the proper high pressure hose, but they dont sell them at parts stores.

Oh it'll definitely be getting changed!

The new is in and...it's allll BAD!

Thing sounds ok, slight knock at idle. Rev it up and it sounds like a bag of ********. It died after and wouldn't restart. Sucks, especially since winter just started. Time to prep the spare to go in and start ordering new goodies. Figures, just got my guages in the other night and didn't even get to use them yet.

hesutton · Jan 9, 2013

That sucks man. Sorry to hear that.

Once you get it out and torn down........... please post up some photos of what you find.

Heath

Kalashnikov · Jan 10, 2013

Yea, I'm curious to see what it looks like. Pretty sure it threw a rod. I started it tonight and ran it for a few minutes. It sounded ok but almost better. Then I heard something getting louder and before I could get out for a listen it locked up completely. Great, now I can't even drive it around the yard...

idiabuse · Jan 10, 2013

should of stayed home working on your truck instead.

tough break, I had a few of them days well actually years!

Javier

lilredtdi · Jan 11, 2013

Speaking of hose clamps..................My Jetta Diesel is modified and I had a big problem with my one boost hose (30 PSI) blowing off every couple of days. I tried every kind of clamp including a T-bolt clamp. Problem was flange was too short for a wide T-bolt clamp and would not compress hose enough.

I went to West Marine (was close) and got a clamp they sell. Looks like a regular worm drive clamp but the inside is smooth and does not have cut out windows that cut into hose and is 100% stainless steel. The clamping power is much greater and it does not harm the hose. They are pricey ( 7 bucks for a 3")

Part of the problem with anything diesel is oil soaks the rubber layers of the hose after time and when that happens hose can slip off easily if under pressure. When I notice a hose getting really soft, I just replace it or cut back to better hose if possible.

Sure wish I knew the actual name of the that kind of clamp and could buy an assortment kit of them to keep around.

icanfixall · Jan 11, 2013

Go back to West Marine and ask what the hose clamp is called or do some online research..

The Warden · Jan 11, 2013

icanfixall said:
Go back to West Marine and ask what the hose clamp is called or do some online research..

With all due respect to the people who work at that West Marine, as someone who used to work at a West Marine store, it's more likely than not that they won't know. Training at West Marine is minimal at best. But, if you can get their SKU number for the clamp (should be on the receipt), you might be able to look at their online catalog for a description of it, and that might tell you...? :dunno

Kalashnikov · Apr 17, 2013

I have started to disassemble my spare IDI tonight. Got it on the stand before the weekned. I just have the fan clutch, exhaust manifold and injectors to pull. I pulled the driver's valve cover and it looked really clean inside. NO sludge build up. The original plan was to build it up some: cam, studs, turbo, pump, throw new bearings/rings in it etc. but I just want it done ASAP and funds are little tighter than I was expecting.

I'm going to reseal it but wondering how far I should go. It looks like it's just leaking from the valve covers, oil cooler, and oil pan. Also wondering if I should just replace the water pump since it's out of the truck. It supposedly had 180k miles. I was going to pull the accessories from my other engine since it was all good. Probably buy new sensors too.

Not sure what color I want to paint it either. I'd like to avoid black so I can identify future leaks easier.

icanfixall · Apr 17, 2013

The senders will be costly. I see no reason to replace them. The water pump.. Sure. Be careful about the top and bottom bolt lengths and use thread sealant on those 4 because they enter the oily side of the engine. You can look thru the cover and see that. Might want to bolt up the old pump and see how far the bolts sticks thru the cover for others referance pics.

gatorman21218 · Apr 17, 2013

icanfixall said:
The senders will be costly. I see no reason to replace them. The water pump.. Sure. Be careful about the top and bottom bolt lengths and use thread sealant on those 4 because they enter the oily side of the engine. You can look thru the cover and see that. Might want to bolt up the old pump and see how far the bolts sticks thru the cover for others referance pics.

I took my front cover off and ground the 4 nuts off that hold the water pump on. I got 4 grade 5 bolts and stuck them through the cover from the backside and welded the heads to the cover. So now when I pull the water pump its easy to align it up, I dont have to worry about sealing the threads or having the bolts hit the timing gear. I also dont have to worry about stripping the threads out of the nuts, which is the original reason I did all this.

Kalashnikov · Aug 6, 2013

Haven't gotten any steady work done on the engine and truck unfortunately. It's been sitting with the nose off for a couple months now. Got the oil cooler and water pump off the blocks. I started to clean up the pan and found some pin holes so I ordered a new one and a new water pump. Found the color I'm going to use. It's Duplicolor wheel paint. I've used it before and it works excellent. Dries quick, stick great, and requires minimal prep work (not that I'm skimping out).