Kinda Unhappy With G code Injectors

icanfixall

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The timing is set at 8.5 BTDC.... Or so I have been told. I now have a Kent Moore lumin- pulse timing meter. Its the J33300 model so I now need a timing lite that id adjustable. Then I'll "see" what the timing is and probably reset it up to 9.5.... But thats after I check out the pop pressures first... From the sound of some of the answers here I may just have some dribblers. If so I have another set of G codes that have 5200 miles on them.... And one really hot-till-it-stopped meltdown a year ago. I wonder how good or bad those springs are now....:dunno
 

typ4

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get them pop tested and if you can't ,ship them to me and I will get it done for you. Timing is way different with g's and I think that is the big issue.
 

RLDSL

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What should the G's be timed at?
Mine are set at 8.5 degrees with a Rotunda

The official timing spec is the same, it's just that when you change the pop off pressure of the injectors, it changes the injection timing, higher pressure injectors will cause the injection to happen later, lower pressure will cause the injection to happen sooner.
you get a pressure rise on each plunger stroke from the pump and different spring tensions in the injector cause the actual injection to happen at different points on the plunger stroke
 

Agnem

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In my opinion, the timing difference due to opening presure variations is not actually measurable or meaningfull. Most injectors seem to loose there maximum opening presure pretty early in life, so the 200 PSI difference goes away pretty fast, and the odds of all 8 injectors being within 100 PSI of each other even when new is not very good, at least on the ones I"ve tested.
 

discbrks

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Can you take them apart & shim them so that they are all 'fairly' close to each other? Say within 100 psi? What would you use as shims?
 

icanfixall

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Shiming them is a good idea but... The way I look at "things" is.... Why did one injector spring open at a lower pressure and will it continue to drop pressure even after shimming.... I know... I go to the outside of logical thinking but thats what I do for giggles most of the time. I'm sure any really good injection rebuild shop will be able to supply any shims if thats what it takes. I have always felt that a new set of injectors will take a "set after running for a time. Then to be on target the motor should be retimed just to see if its changed at all. This may be more than most would do because most anything will run in our motors and run well enough to get it down the road with respect too. Differant fuel... Differant code injectors... Etc... Ford should have stayed with this motor... Too bad for them and the owners of the electronic age trucks... But it keeps the dealer open and jobs are important too.... Alright.. Enough Pollyanaism....:D
 

Andylad13

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My idle is a little ruff but only at times... Then other times its smooth a silk. Occasionally on a warm starup after running some distance it sounds like diesel has drained down somewhere because it will crank and very slowly catch and slowly liteoff. Almost sounds like trying to restart a flooded gasser.

did you check that one way valve thingy that returns the fuel in the filter back to the #1 return line? i only say that because i had the same problem with my truck when i first bought it. when i took the part off, you could blow in both ways and feel air. the new one doesnt do that.
 
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