hdwisboy
Registered User
Was wondering how big of a job it is to correct the KDP problem has anyone here done it?
KDP Questions
- Thread starter hdwisboy
- Start date
if it hasnt broken anything and you are just installing the locking tab, it is prety easy. remove fan and shroud. remove harmonic balancer, and oil filler. undo all the bolts for the front cover. remove front cover and bam, there it is. replace front cover gasket and front seal. reassemble.
Pretty simple job looks and sounds harder then it is.
For me i removed the belt then unbolted the fan and fan pulley"3 bolts just ease it out one bolt cant be removed fully but can be left in the bracket " . Then the tachometer sensor "2 nuts" its just above the harmonic balancer, Remove harmonic balancer, might as well inspect the rubber around it since its out (mine had to be replaced cause some of the rubber was seperating out of it) Take the timing cover off just a bunch of bolts around it.
Get a timing cover seal and replace the crank seal. If the crank is gouged from seal wear drive the seal a slightly different depth to avoid the gouges. The crank seal is a dry install seal with a plastic sleeve used to guide it over the crank as to not damage it. The metal plate that comes with the crank seal is to limit depth and align the seal during install into the timing cover.
As others have sayed attempt to locktite the case bolts behind the timing cover. Some are behind the gears. I made my own tab the easiest way to copy the shape for me was to bend aluminum foil in the little area like a mold. I then traced onto metal the basic shape the aluminum foil took on. I then went to a hardware store an bought a slightly longer bolt since i had used 1/8" steel for the tab. An alternative to tabbing is spiking the dowel pin hole. If you can drive the dowl back in(not just flush with the case) take a chisel or a punch and miss shappen the hole to prevent it from backing out past that point. I could only drive my dowl pin flush with the case so i went the tab route. Install is reverse. Set the gap on the tachometer sensor i found a folded up section of the crank seal box worked nicely but a feeler gauge can be used to set the gap as well.
For me i removed the belt then unbolted the fan and fan pulley"3 bolts just ease it out one bolt cant be removed fully but can be left in the bracket " . Then the tachometer sensor "2 nuts" its just above the harmonic balancer, Remove harmonic balancer, might as well inspect the rubber around it since its out (mine had to be replaced cause some of the rubber was seperating out of it) Take the timing cover off just a bunch of bolts around it.
Get a timing cover seal and replace the crank seal. If the crank is gouged from seal wear drive the seal a slightly different depth to avoid the gouges. The crank seal is a dry install seal with a plastic sleeve used to guide it over the crank as to not damage it. The metal plate that comes with the crank seal is to limit depth and align the seal during install into the timing cover.
As others have sayed attempt to locktite the case bolts behind the timing cover. Some are behind the gears. I made my own tab the easiest way to copy the shape for me was to bend aluminum foil in the little area like a mold. I then traced onto metal the basic shape the aluminum foil took on. I then went to a hardware store an bought a slightly longer bolt since i had used 1/8" steel for the tab. An alternative to tabbing is spiking the dowel pin hole. If you can drive the dowl back in(not just flush with the case) take a chisel or a punch and miss shappen the hole to prevent it from backing out past that point. I could only drive my dowl pin flush with the case so i went the tab route. Install is reverse. Set the gap on the tachometer sensor i found a folded up section of the crank seal box worked nicely but a feeler gauge can be used to set the gap as well.
