joy was bitter sweet...

[Bubba_891]

Well im back to square one again. The start problem has me confused. Put thebnew starter in chargedbthe batteries night before and even change the fender soleniod. Truck started right up and ran great. Then today went to go to work this morning and all I got was the dang ole click again... I have no idea what is causing it to do this. :/ idk where to even start.

 

[BDOGONE]

Draw on the battery, or not charging while running? ... Draw test should be 1/4 Amp or less. (<250mA).... Running volts around 14v?


Sent by wing, prayer & ATT

 

[FordGuy100]

Ignition switch making bad contact?

Can you jump the relay at the fender amd have it turn over? If so it's wiring.

 

[Bubba_891]

Im starting to think it maybe the ignition switch. And everything is checking out correct on the multi meter so I know it all good there. My next adventure maybe the ignition switch.

 

[Knuckledragger]

The ignition switch is a cheap way to remove one parameter. They only cost about $7 and take about 5 minutes to replace. They do wear and are an engineered fail point.

 

[Wyreth]

I would also replace the wire going from the fender solenoid to the starter solenoid. It could have broken, and be making intermittent contact.

 

[riotwarrior]

the ignition switch and ignition actuator aka key/cylinder are not one and the same.

switch is down on column actuated on when turning the key by a rod that connects the two.

the switch on the column can be out of alignment due to wear, or the actuator could be worn too wich would still require adjustment of switch on column.

 

[RavenTBK]

You can test the ignition switch function by jumping the solenoid from the ignition switch trigger to the feed side of the solenoid with a screwdriver. If the truck turns over, its something upstream thats bad..ala ignition switch. That is, if of course the batteries are still good otherwise...no drawdown. Look at this photo... you pull off the tiny wire, and screwdriver between the tiny wire's post, and the cable connection that goes to the hot side of the battery.
http://i47.tinypic.com/2lw2k91.jpg

As riotwarrior said, the switch is not in the key...its a box down near the brake bedal, on top of the steering column. You must drop the steering wheel into the seat (other than trim, two bolts is all) to properly access it.

 

[franklin2]

I heard a couple times in the previous posts about testing. I would quite guessing and replacing parts, and get a testlight or voltmeter and do some testing. If a voltmeter scares you, a testlight will work just as well.

I would get a helper, hook the testlight to a good ground and touch it to one of the battery + terminals. The testlight should glow bright. While holding it on the battery +, get some to try and crank the truck. If the testlight goes out, your batteries are dead. If it stays bright, then we need to move on down the line.

Move the probe of the testlight to the output terminal of the fender mounted solenoid. Put it on the decent sized wire that runs down to the starter. You should have no light. Get someone to try and crank it. The solenoid should click, and the light should light up.

If the light did light up, crawl under the truck and put the testlight on a good ground and touch the large lead from the battery. The testlight should light. Then get someone to crank the truck. The light should stay lit. If it doesn't, that cable to the starter may be bad. If it stays lit, move your probe over to the smaller wire that comes from the solenoid on the fender. The light should be off. Get someone to crank the truck. The light should light up. If it doesn't, there is something wrong with that wire from the solenoid. If it does light, then there is something wrong with the starter.

 

[Bubba_891]

Ok franklin2 thank you so very much now I made it all the way thru the test light procedures you gave and then at the big ole red cable coming down to the starter guess what happen when the key was applied to "start" the truck.Yup you guessed it the light went out and click goes the fender solenoid. Now to find a new complete power cable.... And try again I really hope that's all it is.. Cuz my wife and bank account hate me right now but the part store loves me..

 

[Knuckledragger]

As riotwarrior said, the switch is not in the key...its a box down near the brake pedal, on top of the steering column. You must drop the steering wheel into the seat (other than trim, two bolts is all) to properly access it.

Yes, this is the part to which I was referring, but I have never had to do anything but twist around a little bit and take out the two screws, unplug the switch and replace. The only other thing is the under dash trim that came on the trucks may have to be removed, if it still exists. The steering column doesn't need to go anywhere.

 

[OLDBULL8]

There is a solenoid to starter on u-haul u-techcenter.com. Ill see if I can find it again, just saw it 3-4 hrs ago.

Here tis. Cheap $5.70 + $3.95 shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-CAB...ries&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ecb9ab6e4#ht_345wt_642

 

[franklin2]

There is a solenoid to starter on u-haul u-techcenter.com. Ill see if I can find it again, just saw it 3-4 hrs ago.

Here tis. Cheap $5.70 + $3.95 shipping
http://www.ebay.com/itm/STARTER-CAB...ries&vxp=mtr&hash=item2ecb9ab6e4#ht_345wt_642

If I am reading his post correctly, he has a problem with the largest cable that goes from the batteries to the starter, not the smaller one that goes from the solenoid to the starter. Am I correct?

 

[Bubba_891]

Yes sir mr Franklin2 you are correct I'm gonna pull it out maybe tomorrow if I get time after work and check it all the way out and see for cracks, breaks and such. I may get new to me one from the junk yard cuz my connections look scared and eat up like someone tried to saw on them. But I do think you for the test light info. I was using just a multi meter and was thinking it was all good. I'll let y'all know what happens maybe after Christmas tho..