It was warm today... I got my IP removed finally.

mjs2011

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Today was the warmest day on forecast until March, It hit 32 degrees!!! So I went out and got my IP and injectors pulled to prepare for a full refresh.

Everything went smoothly. However, I do have a few questions. Firstly, what should I be using to plug the holes where the injectors were. At this point, there is nothing covering them. Secondly, some of the injectors looked pretty rough, and some had some buildup below the copper washer. Is it necessary to clean out the bore before the new injectors are installed?

The injectors are marked 7/90 (The manufacture date?) and have a D stamped on the side of the hex. BB are the recommended type of injectors to reinstall, correct?

Attached is a picture of the worst injector. It had some goo and rust all along the body, as well as some carbon on the tip.

Lastly, what preparations should I make to my IP before I send it to be rebuilt? Right now it is super dirty.
 

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ToughOldFord

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That is nasty. How'd it run?

Some say the injector coding is irrelevant as long as the pop pressures are good. Many say the BBs are the ones to get. Since they cost the same might as well play it safe and get the BBs.
 

mjs2011

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It ran decent as far as I could tell. I had never driven or even experienced another idi, so I have nothing to compare it too. When I first bought it, I checked the effects of loosening each injector line nut one at a time while running, and no single cylinder stuck out as a bad one. I did have a bit of white smoke when throttled up, and never once saw any black smoke.

I'm guessing that the injectors and IP are factory. 220,000 miles.
 

FarmerFrank

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Im sorry this is off your topic but what roughly what milage does your truck get? i found a 90 2wd zf5 7.3 with probably 4:10s and i have a 3:55 rear. Near 20?
 

mjs2011

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I was getting 17 at 70 mph with the 4.10, since the 3.55 went in, I never checked on diesel, but estimated around 15-20 over 1500 miles on wvo. WVO is usually slightly lower mileage than diesel. I would expect 20 mpg with the 3.55 rear end, and maybe even more with a new IP and injectors, as well as a good timing.
 

mjs2011

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how is your fuel system holding up to wmo? I'm hoping to get my WVO going again as soon as I get the new pump. I don't want to f**k anything up right away with it.
 

FarmerFrank

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So far she loves it. Just not in the single and negative digits. If I had a heater of sorts it might not be as bad. I run caterpillar filters that's suppose to be good for 2 microns. Been running for about 12k miles on a junk yard IP. It's all in how it's filtered before the tank
 

OLDBULL8

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Nothing to prep, just clean it up on the outside, you could take some cling wrap and cover all the openings on the outlets so dirt don't get in there, do that first before cleaning the outside. Then put it in a ziplock bag before sending it so any fuel that leaks out don't contaminate the package. Those injectors are probably not the originals, or they would be painted gray. Stick them back in the holes after cleaning out the carbon in the holes.
 

mjs2011

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I will clean the pump up to get it ready. Is there anything I need to keep from it? I thought I recall hearing there is something to keep from the inlet pump, as well as the return fittings on the top.

As far as the injectors, I believe they are the originals, there is gray paint on them, and the one in the image has a bit of gray paint on the hex head, though most of it is chipped off.

Whats the best way to get the carbon out of the injector holes?
 

Ugly Moosling

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I will clean the pump up to get it ready. Is there anything I need to keep from it? I thought I recall hearing there is something to keep from the inlet pump, as well as the return fittings on the top.

Remove the brass inlet and return fittings, leave the steel return fitting in the top cover.

Remove the little triangular side cover (held on with two 1/4" head bolts), drain the fuel, and replace the triangular side cover and gasket.

Remove the bracket holding the fast idle solenoid.

I see you have a ZF-5, but for those with autos, remove the tps.

Wrap the pump in some rags/shop towels/newspaper/anything absorbent and seal it in a large ziplock, place the first bag inside a second bag if you're shipping.

If you're shipping, pack the box full of newspaper or rags to soak up any fuel that gets out and keep the pump from bouncing around and being damaged.

Depending on where you're having the work done some shops will send you an exchange pump first and then you send your core back. This way you can be sure you have all the right fittings and accessories before returning your core. If you're having your pump rebuilt I still recommend removing the list above, as some shops will misplace fittings and accessories if they're not used to seeing them...
 

fhafer

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In addition to removing the TPS, you need to remove the TPS adapter. It is held onto the IP shaft with two set screws. It looks like a big flat-blade screw driver where it goes into the TPS. The previous owner of my truck did an IP swap and failed to grab the adapter. He could never get the TPS to work after the swap. I drove it for three years before I discovered the missing adapter...and yes, the truck drove like stink!
 

icanfixall

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In addition to removing the TPS, you need to remove the TPS adapter. It is held onto the IP shaft with two set screws. It looks like a big flat-blade screw driver where it goes into the TPS. The previous owner of my truck did an IP swap and failed to grab the adapter. He could never get the TPS to work after the swap. I drove it for three years before I discovered the missing adapter...and yes, the truck drove like stink!

Driving an E4OD truck with a non operating tps for 3 years is telling me these trans can take a beating and still run. n limt home mode I'm surprised you have a trans left after 3 years of harsh shifting. Sad way to learn whats right and what some goober has done to "fix" something.
 
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