is a rebuilt engine as good as a new one?

Devilish

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I've heard that Reviva is a reputable company I'm sure that you have your moneys worth sitting at your home. Reviva also does a idi with ats turbo installed for $2000 more.
 

RKOCH

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I always put melling HD sleeves in all the 7.3l blocks. This gives you a nice thick cyl wall and you have the stock bore.
 

MARQ2277

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That's so true. boring out a 7.3 will just cause you issues, from weak flexing walls, cavitation, and heating issues due to thin walls. For not much more money, I would re-sleeve a diesel motor. When I worked for Mid-West Engines (years ago in SLC), they always resleaved the IH (actually some of the IH's and Cummins were wet sleeved just for that reason.

Marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

GREASE FIRE

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i called Reviva again and got someone on the phone who knows all about these engines. He said they never over bore them (with a laugh) and that they always sleeve the 4 cylinders on the side that the oil cooler is on and then examine the other 4 cylinders and sleeve if needed. I asked why they did this and he said there is more of a chance of "porosity" on the oil cooler side. I did not ask him what he meant because at first i assumed he was talking about cavitation. Was that correct or is porosity a different issue?
I still don't understand why it would be more of a problem on one side than the other - can anyone explain?
thanks,
Paul
 

Exekiel69

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It is better if they sleeve all the cylinders but that doesn't mean the ones that are not sleeved will cavitate You have to keep with the coolant additives as long as You own the engine and chances are You won't suffer from cavitation unless the engine has already some damage in it but I don't think the cavitation is so imminent in all this 7.3's. Then again I never have one cavitate.
 

MARQ2277

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All I know is, on payday, I will take what ever messures is necessary to make sure my coolant is up to chemical par!! I plan on owning this thing "till the end of the world, simply because I truely believe that gas will be almost impossible to get in ten (10) years, and with the proper equipment this IDI will burn anything. Trust me, in ten years, people will be withing they had a 6.9/7.3 IDI.

Marq
_____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

Michael Fowler

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What are the odds of a 7.3 cavitating, if a new owner was very careful about the SCA levels but the history is unknown--and assumed that PO did not monitor SCAs?
Is there a period of a few thousand miles where it might still Cavitate?
Is there a point at which you can feel safe that it will not cavitate?
 

92F350CC

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Ask a member by the name of Dave Sponaugle about reviva 7.3's. He has had nothing but pure hell from them. 3 blocks that had all been bored and sleeved, all of them went to hell in a handbasket in less than a year.
 

GREASE FIRE

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All I know is, on payday, I will take what ever messures is necessary to make sure my coolant is up to chemical par!! I plan on owning this thing "till the end of the world, simply because I truely believe that gas will be almost impossible to get in ten (10) years, and with the proper equipment this IDI will burn anything. Trust me, in ten years, people will be withing they had a 6.9/7.3 IDI.

Marq
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QUOTE]

i couldn't agree with you more, but in ten years it may be impossible to get wvo/wmo as well. For some people it already is. But, if you can get some i suggest you grab that grease with both hands and make a stash and do whatever you can to secure whatever connections you can make. I have found that even the offer to pay for it goes a long way, even though they almost always say just take it (so far at least). I am talking mostly about wvo since that is what i burn in my trucks.
As for wmo, which i sometimes burn in my kiln, i found a local mechanic who said the wmo collector dudes "line up like beggars" to get it from him, paying $.55/gallon and constantly compete with each other, bad mouth each other, and sometimes just show up and start pumping it out of his container without even asking first (even though they still pay).
So i showed up and politely offered to pay the going rate for it and told him what i do with it and he joked about how annoying the grease monkies can be and said he would just as soon sell all of it to me, a local guy, and tell the others to get lost. I don't need to buy all of it right now since i get almost all the wvo i need free - but if that falls through i sure would not think twice about working out a semi-formal agreement with the mechanic to cut all the other guys out of the deal for good and buy it all.
just my opinion...

Paul
 

MARQ2277

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There's got to be something wrong, if a sleved went bad. The only thing there that makes sense is; all three (3) blocks had too many bad miles on them, and they were suffering from cavitation in other parts. We have to look a things with logic. I have heard that 150K miles without treatment is a point when cavitation begins. I was under the assumption that cavitation happened to the cylinder sleeves. And if someone puts in a new sleeve, and it fails within a short period of time; well a few things come to mind. One, poor workmanship is a possibility; Two, cavitation happened to another area of the block and/or heads; and, Three there was a problem with the chemical balance, i.e. the block(s) were so badly corroded the cavitation issue was greatly amplified.

I just know that, under the laws of physics something (new with no corresive issues) does not go bad, unless there was another element involved which was either overlooked, or ignored.

Marq
____________________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

MARQ2277

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Wow, maybe I better buy a bike? Oh, I forgot, my legs don't work. It's funny, I'm not sure where you guys are from, but I haven't heard of those type of (can't get wmo/wvo) issues. I went to take my used motor oil to a parts store awhile back (before I bought this diesel), and I could not give it way. Me and my dad just changed oil in our trucks about three (3) months ago, and I had a hard time getting rid of it. Schucks wouldn't take it, NAPA stopped taking it, etc. That's were I decided to start collecting it myself, and converting it. My parents have a big ranch, and I may get some tanks and start storing it. But, just in my RV park alone, I could be burning used motor oil for free.

Marq
_______________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 

BigRigTech

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I think the same way as you, I have a spare engine here now and I'm always looking out for more...If I have the engines and trannys I can always find a truck to put them in....These things are pretty adaptable to fuels and I plan on driving mine for a LONG time...
 

MARQ2277

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Extra engine. You lucky dog!!

I tell you what, that's a great motor. If I had the money, I'd put an IDI in all kinds of trucks and jeeps. Speaking of which. My dad has a jeep with a chevy v8, and when I get the jeep passed down to me, I'd like to put an IDI in it, if I could.

Marq
____________________________________
1990 Ford F-250 4X4:
7.3 IDI with 120K on the clock:
ATS Turbo with waste gate:
Stage One Injectors (Oregon Injector Service):
Complete Return Fuel Kit (Oregon Injector Service):
DB2 Pump, cranked up with Cold Advance wired permanently on:
4” down pipe, 4” straight through exhaust stopping between cab and bed (no **** on my stuff):
Torque Converter Lock Up Switch (On/Off/Lock-Up):
E4OD Line Pressure Controller (adjusted to fast/firm shifts):
4” lift w/Rancho shocks:
Big Fat Tires on custom rims:

Tows 1985 fully loaded heavy 28 foot RV (my house) everywhere:
 
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