IP timing

[raydav]

I have a TACH N TIME. The bracket on the front engine cover has a tube at the zero mark, and a smaller tube 20 degrees later. I plugged the magnetic probe in the smaller tube because that is the one it fit.

I did a quick check at idle. I scrolled the timing light until the dampener groove was at zero. The screen said plus eight degrees.

I switched to the mag pickup. After adding twenty degrees for the offset of the second tube, the screen said zero degrees.

So what is it, plus eight or zero? I read another post where the two methods yielded results.

Suggestions?

 

[sjwelds]

supposed to rev to 2000 rpm

 

[icanfixall]

As posted you need 2000 rpm to get the correct timing no matter what method you are using. The timing light or the magnetic probe type timing both require 2000 rpm and they require the clamp on the number one injector hard line.

 

[Macrobb]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/vra20007.htm
Is this what you are doing, basically?

 

[raydav]

Yes, the sensor is on line one. And does anyone seriously think that at 2K RPM the two methods are going to yield the same result when they are eight degrees apart at idle? The question relates to the difference not the absolute numbers. That subject we will get to if I ever get a way to accurately set timing.

 

[raydav]

http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/vra/vra20007.htm
Is this what you are doing, basically?

What is the deal with line one for F series and line four for E? Did Ford ever put a turbo engine in a van in 1993? This one is in a van. But Ford didn't put it there, I did. And it has the line 4 extension left over from the 1989 van engine.

And I acquired a new front cover, but I don't see any difference from the 89.

 

[Macrobb]

If you think about it, #1 and #4 are 360 degrees of crank rotation apart. So either #4 or #1 will work. Ford just used two different spots for the sensor, probably due to the difficulty of getting to #1 from inside the cab in a van.

 

[icanfixall]

If you think about it, #1 and #4 are 360 degrees of crank rotation apart. So either #4 or #1 will work. Ford just used two different spots for the sensor, probably due to the difficulty of getting to #1 from inside the cab in a van.

This is EXACTLY why the vans time on the number 4 injector line and the trucks time on the number 1 injector line.We can time off any cylinder but... We can ONLY do that if we know what the degree is for any cylinder in timing rotation. Confused now???
Am not sure if Ford ever installed a turbo in any vans but they sure did have a need to time the van engines.

 

[crash-harris]

Timing offset is indeed 20 degrees (timing tube isn't centered). When you rev and hold 2K RPM with the offset, you should get about 8-9 degrees of timing, maybe less. I still have to re-JB Weld my timing tube straight up again. Damn thing is loose...again. I got one of the surplus TECH-N-TIME meters last year and haven't been able to verify it, or my current timing due to the floppy tube throwing off readings. When I rented one of Gary's meters a few years ago, I couldn't get a great signal off the #1 line, so I timed off the #4 line.

 

[raydav]

Someone insisted that I advance the IP gear one tooth. That resulted in what I have described as similar to the cackle of a top fuel engine at idle, or, shaking a can with a few BBs in it. It doesn't sound healthy.

The IP is now backed down to minimize the rattle. And I don't know if to believe either the timing light or mag pickup.

Does anyone know how many teeth an IP gear has? I would like to determine degrees per tooth.

 

[Thewespaul]

I believe it is 52 tooth

 

[hoodshauler]

Yes, the sensor is on line one. And does anyone seriously think that at 2K RPM the two methods are going to yield the same result when they are eight degrees apart at idle? The question relates to the difference not the absolute numbers. That subject we will get to if I ever get a way to accurately set timing.

Are you sure your magnetic sensor is working? Did you rev the engine to see if anything changed? Everything cleaned of any grease, dirt & oil?

 

[crash-harris]

And proper air gap? Unless you've installed am R&D Stage 1 cam, there's no reason to have all the timing marks on the gears lined up. I'm not sure if Russ' can requires the can gear to be 1 tooth of or not.

 

[raydav]

I believe it is 52 tooth

That would be about seven degrees per tooth.

 

[icanfixall]

From what I know only the RDI cam requires a tooth advance. No other cam requires this and if done you have really messed the timing up.The reason you MUST rev to 2000 rpm is that sets the timing in the pump correctly. If you are skeptical please check timing at idle and the rev to 2000 rpm.See the difference. Between riotwarrior and myself we have determined that the air gap between the damper and the magnetic probe needs to be the thickness of 3 business cards. So tape together 3 cards and set it. Remember the timing tb is bendable.