IP question

[Diesel JD]

I think you could give it some help by cutting out that soup bowl thingamajig, but nothing near what a turbo will give it. In your case the black smoke is almost surely from insufficient air for the amount of fuel being injected. If the timing is too far advanced it will knock pretty bad and probably be hard to start at times.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

My air filter top has the bowl in the middle.

Okay, that's a 7.3 lid then, most likely - ditch that for a lid off another 6.9 that don't have the soup bowl on it. Also, look at the air filter housing - is the hole on the bottom as large as he one on the intake plenum it all bolts up to? If both holes are the same size you're good, if the filter housing is small you need a "new" filter housing as well... I'm thinking it may be possible that you have the restrictive 6.9 lower half with a 7.3 upper lid, won't be the first time I've seen someone get creative in replacing parts with whatever is available and kinda-sorta fits...

 

[RLDSL]

This is exactly what I'm feeling in my NA 6.9. I suspect messed up injectors and or the IP. I'm going to mess with the screw on it see if I can do away with some of the smoke.

I stand on it to get it to move sometimes. And I get clouds of black smoke. I'm wondering if the high altitude (1 mile high) has some effect on it. And I'm wondering if I should retard my timing.

If your truck was originaly sold in that area, it should have come with a high altitude pump which would have been set with the fuel screw turned down, but if not , or if the pump has been changed, the thing may not be set right. For altitude, you need to set the fuel screw down to compensate for the lack of air and it doesnt hurt to advance the timing just a nudge as well. I've got some european diesels that have some nifty contraptions on the pumps that automatically cut the fuel back and advance the timing above roughly 3300 ft and used to have instructions on earlier models to manually do it. Makes worlds of difference.
The advance difference equivilant at altitude of 6600ft would work out to roughly 1-1.5 deg btdc pulse method, if you run the passes a lot, probably closer to 2 deg

 

[Papabear]

i need to dial down my fuel and perhaps adjust my timing to compensate for switching from turboed to naturally aspirated just a little scared to screw with it as i leave day after tomorrow for smithers a 14.5 hr drive i watch the water temp and it stays nice and cool but i do believe i am running warm as i can feel the heat off the truck when it is idling. gotta any FOOL PROOF procedures on how to go about this i do not have a diesel timing light

 

[mankypro]

Thank you for all the advice folks. As far as the "screw" - is there a picture of it somewhere? My manuals don't talk about it at all, or even illustrate it. Additionally would I be turning the pump past the static timing notch clockwise to advance timing? Or counterclockwise?

 

[Agnem]

You need to get it dynamically timed. Doing it by ear on average still leaves a degree or two of possible improvement, and that can make a big difference. The fuel they sell us these days is also resposible for a big loss in performance. Fewer BTU's and you burn more of it. That's considered an improvement some how.

 

[mankypro]

I was planning on doing my injectors, should that not solve the problem order a new IP and install it and manually time it until I can get it to a diesel performance shop to dynamically time it. This will save something like $500.00 in labor round these parts.

 

[Ford4life]

the way it drives the truck seems to be geared kinda low, either 4.10s or 3.55s. and i would guess my welding setup to weigh about 1500 lbs. what has me wondering is that there is no smoke under hard acceleration or towing. is there a way to turn the fuel screw all the way in and count the turns out to get it where it belongs, or do i have to just keeps adjusting it to see what results i can get.

 

[Ford4life]

the way the truck drives is seems geared kinda low eithe 4.10 or 3.55. what concerns me is there is no smoke under hard acceleration or towing. is there a way to turn the fuel screw all the way in and count the turns out to get it where it belongs or do i have to keep adjusting it and trying it to see if it gets better.

 

[david85]

the way the truck drives is seems geared kinda low eithe 4.10 or 3.55. what concerns me is there is no smoke under hard acceleration or towing. is there a way to turn the fuel screw all the way in and count the turns out to get it where it belongs or do i have to keep adjusting it and trying it to see if it gets better.

Its recommended to go in 1/6th a turn per adjustment. In your case I would thinh you can safely get away with 1/3 of a turn. You have it set right when you have a hint of black smoke under hard acceleration. Trust me, you will know if you went too far.

You do not under any conditions want to blow smoke for more than a minute or two at a time. If the smoke rolls on steady, your EGTs will rise to dangerous levels in no time at all. So if its not smoking while towing thats not all together a bad thing. But you are probably not at the fueling limit yet so turning up the fuel is propably worth a try.

 

[Cat_Rebel]

Hooking up a Pyrometer in a truck is never a bad idea. A good one like a Auto Meter is about $120+ & just something that should have come standard on all Diesel trucks.