IP Adjustment

[Spun4Fun]

I am in the process of timing my New Pump with digital timing Meter and ferret that i picked up from OLDBULL, The process which requires loosing up the injectors line connect to the IP to allow for ease of movement. I can get to 7 total except #2 which is hidden under the R lower corner of the pump driver side of the pump.

I modified 5/8 box wrench (similar to the wrench used on bleeder break screw) its working perfect on all the lower Injectors but i can not get to that specific one . Any trick Pic of modified tool , socket ..ETC .

 

[Clb]

Nope.
It should not take an act of god to move the pump to time it IF IT'S INSTALLED RIGHT.
That said, its not easy on some solo....
Try just snugging 1 of the 3 ip bolts and bump the wrench on the 3\4" lug to get to the setting desired.
Then lock down the inj. Lines

 

[Hydro-idi]

You do not need to loosen the injector lines to time injection pump. I've never had to do that & timed my ip many times.
There is a tool that can be used to "bar" injection pump over a little if you have to adjust timing. I always used a crescent wrench on mine and it worked like a charm.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Nope.
It should not take an act of god to move the pump to time it IF IT'S INSTALLED RIGHT.
That said, its not easy on some solo....
Try just snugging 1 of the 3 ip bolts and bump the wrench on the 3\4" lug to get to the setting desired.
Then lock down the inj. Lines

Yes it moves quite easy, i did not want to put so much stress on the lines, For some odd reason am not getting the right result of the ferret . First time it registered 0.1 BTDC then when i advanced 2 marks pass the factory mark it won't register but 0.0 however the RPM's are registering.


With 0.1 @ 2000 i was blowing white gray smoke , not am 2 marks pass the Factory line on the housing @2000 no visual smoke what so ever and it is idling right


I came across this following link written by OLDBULL ( Who am using his Meter )
http://www.oilburners.net/threads/timing-a-7-3-with-a-ferret-adapter.42782/

I have placed the Ferret pass the bend on the injector #1 , I will place it like it shows in his PIC and tape the ground around the line like other suggested .

 

[icanfixall]

The lines somethimes do make moving the pump very difficult. Just loosen them and then retighten them to relieve the stress.Sorry but I can't help with the ferrite timing.I do not know much about this timing type.

 

[OLDBULL8]

The timing gun is NOT a READOUT. You set the ADVANCE to 8.5*BTDC or whatever DEGREE you want to time the IP at. Then MOVE the IP so the TIMING mark ------ on the DAMPER PULLEY lines up with the 0--- on the TIMING PLATE, then the IP will be timed BTDC to whatever you choose it to be. Set gun at 4 because the IDI is a 4 stroke. Mark the line on the damper and timing plate with white paint or soapstone so it's easy to see.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Spun4Fun]

I used OLBULLL8 above steps


Today we have a well timed IDI as I got lucky yesterday , when I moved the pump for the 3rd time to the passenger side I am set st 8.5° BTDC

Tomorrow I am Going to make anothet fine tune adjustment per Bill instruction


Bill I would like to thank you again for taking the time to walking me over the phone thru the timing process . It worked as you described

 

[Spun4Fun]

Update :


The Fine tune is complete ..Timing advanced farther to 10° BTDC for future refrence and backed it off back to 8.5° BTDC.


One thing i noticed that with this timing it's knocks Pretty good when the fast idle kicks on then once that fast ideal shuts off its smooth's out


Vs

8.5° BTDC which is smooth all the way across . I have not driven the truck yet. i will update with the final result

 

[icanfixall]

Mark where you have the 8.5 and 10.0 advance. then you can "adjust" without a timing meter or light.I recommend every person that rents my meters to make 3 timing marks on the pump. then your good for around 50 to 75 thousand miles of use and can adjust knowing what you have cause you already timed to those degrees.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Made few marks one on the 8.5° & 10° BTDC . I figured any thing between that ( With the half circle of the punch tool pass the 8.5° ) will be right on the Money




The green machine test drive really well, nice power delivery, smooth outa this performance pump yet responsive for it's weight, healthy cloud of smoke when i stood on it but not over the top that its waiting fuel( fueling is right on ) really plenty of grunt which is very noticeable at idle setting in the drive way, you REALY can hear it like unleashing the jeannie out of the bottle which is huge different from the Stock pump .


Injector #7 pump side is giving me a fit to seal correctly as i have been loosing all 7 lines every time i make adjustment ( off course #2 is out of reach). I also made it loose by the Injector, Pump and took off the hard line keepers to free the line for better realignment.

The sky was ready to open up and dump buckets so i had to stop, hopefully tonight i get to it

 

[icanfixall]

Once to release the hard line tension you probably never need to loosen the hard lines again to adjust the timing.

 

[Clb]

Remember to reinstall them clamps.....
Enjoy.

 

[Spun4Fun]

I am lost on the last 2 post unless i am reading much into it


Every thing is been put together and working 100% except the leak i am getting from injector #7 pump side,that is the reason i loosened the fitting on top of the injector #7 side and pump side to adjust the line as am hoping that line might have been stressed and was mis aligned or something, also released the damper until work complete to allow more wiggle then once i line it up i will button every thing









I also noticed injector fuel cap on top #3 is wet so i wiggled it up and down hoping it will set right

 

[OLDBULL8]

One thing i noticed that with this timing it's knocks Pretty good when the fast idle kicks on then once that fast ideal shuts off its smooth's out

That is as it should be on a cold engine. I love that sound on my 92.

Sounds like you have it timed just right.

On your #7 line. Might be a cracked line right at the nut. Really hard to see if it is.

 

[Spun4Fun]

I had a down time during lunch time, i loosened the line and took it out #7, i used a magnifying glasses no cracks i can see, line holding air pressure from flair end to other end.

It went smooth as butter which tells me it was tweaked due to movement during rotation maybe IDK reason i believe that , it was a small struggle during installing the damper but all lined up now ( line went smooth to both side IP and injectors )


Ran the truck i the drive way , rev'ed it up pretty good and its bone dry . will take it for test and heavy load