79jasper
Chickenhawk
You could do that. I don't have any diagrams for the tank selector. If so, I could figure it out for you.
Intermittent power loss
- Thread starter homelessduck
- Start date
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
not trying to down your method but I recently had my fsv quit working and havent had a chance to look at it since but the idea that immediately came to mind if my fsv indeed needed replaced was to pull it and rig it to where it will only suck from the rear tank. Then plumb a line from front tank to rear at the bottom of the tank and put a check valve or an asco valve(open/close flow solenoid) keyed by the ignition in the line to were the front tank would fill the back one as it drains. The check valve is neccesary because just running a line between the two would make filling up a pain.
This just seems like the obvious answer to me.
This just seems like the obvious answer to me.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
So like an auxiliary tank that you'd use to refill the rear tank?
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
basically the front tank would just be reserve that would refill the rear tank as it emptied
79jasper
Chickenhawk
That's a good idea actually.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I run diesel in the front and wmo in the rear. I need them isolated. I also am not going to
leave the fsv in there because it was completely clogged and can easily clog again. I want it done right the first time because I really don't like working on vehicles these days ...
Thanks for the suggestion though!
leave the fsv in there because it was completely clogged and can easily clog again. I want it done right the first time because I really don't like working on vehicles these days ...
Thanks for the suggestion though!
79jasper
Chickenhawk
Forgot about that. If you find any wiring diagrams, let me know.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
Ok , ***. I bought supply and return hose today ( 3/8 and 5/16 ) . I crawled under the truck to figure out how I was going to plumb it. My fuel supply and return are both 5/16. The sender is 3/8 and 5/16 but the only difference is the quick disconnect end ; they are both identical size lines. The supply line and return line from the rear tank run to hard lines that are 5/16. I traced the return and supply lines from the engine ( hard lines) and they run almost to the fsv, and are also 5/16. However .... At the lift pump side of the supply line it is magically 3/8.
SO.. should I just run the supply and return lines as 5/16? I can't see it restricting any more than it already is, since a good 80% of the lines are hard 5/16 ...
SO.. should I just run the supply and return lines as 5/16? I can't see it restricting any more than it already is, since a good 80% of the lines are hard 5/16 ...
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I thought about it more .. with the supply lines being. 5/16 it doesn't matter if the end is 3/8 , it would still flow the same. So ***? Did someone do something goofy with this thing and restrict the fuel supply?
I would have to replace the entire supply lines with 3/8. From senders to lift pump.
I would have to replace the entire supply lines with 3/8. From senders to lift pump.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
I don't think you'll need the bigger line. As long as your WMO isn't real thick.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I'm thinking about just running rubber 3/8 from the senders to the valves and on to the lift pump. I don't know if it would even make a difference but I don't want to do this again .. and if it helped the thicker wmo blends at all.. that would be nice. That would be another $45 or so in fuel line though.
79jasper
Chickenhawk
You may be able to return the 5/16 line. But yeah do it right the first time.
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I just think it's strange that they would use 3/8 for years on the NA, then reduce it to 5/16 and ADD a turbo?
I guess it must not make any difference
I guess it must not make any difference
redneckaggie
rebel w/o a cause
Again wasnt downing your method and i see the need for you to do it this way. Just putting this in here for someone else who might find this thread while searching.
The clogging of the fsv could easily be eliminate by bypassing it alltogether The only reason I thought to leave it there was for the gauges to work without having to modify those wires. I forgot to add in my earlier post that if someone were to use the check valve method suction would need to be plumbed into the active tank but return would need to be plumbed into the other tank to avoid the possibillity of overfilling
But back on topic I would just run my own 3/8's rubber line considering your particular situation
The clogging of the fsv could easily be eliminate by bypassing it alltogether The only reason I thought to leave it there was for the gauges to work without having to modify those wires. I forgot to add in my earlier post that if someone were to use the check valve method suction would need to be plumbed into the active tank but return would need to be plumbed into the other tank to avoid the possibillity of overfilling
But back on topic I would just run my own 3/8's rubber line considering your particular situation
homelessduck
Full Access Member
I dug around some more and found out that some/all(?) Of the later idi's have 5/16 supply and return. I am going to run 3/8 rubber hose from the tank barb to the valves and on to the lift pump. I have to buy probably 20' more hose. Hopefully that will be enough .. The hose I'm using is safe for biodiesel so it should last awhile. I think it had Parker stamped on it.
