Intake TO VP

[icanfixall]

About the only difference between the original valley pan and the new type is the baffle under the pan has larger openings in it. Might be they have a different gasket material applied to the metal too but I do not recall.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Old VP came off easy, cleaned/removed old sealant then scrupped it clean with scotch brite with some carb cleaner to shine, going to clean it one more time right before apply Permatex Right Stuff to the surface and install the new VP.


Also going to drill 1" HOLE all the WAY thru the tray when the new VP arrive just straight under where the turbo drain tube goes, that should be sufficient enough to drain nd fix this poor design for good.


Looking at the old VP i found out what i did wrong which is lack of my understanding of these VP design, apparently they are 2 layers of metal with the bottom sheet is perforate with 2 small diameter holes one on each side, the holes i attempted to punch back when i tried did not even make it all the way to the 2nd metal layer and if some did they were to small, It's like trying to breath thru a small straw

 

[OLDBULL8]

WOWEE. If you punched holes in the TOP layer, well you did not pay attention on how to punch holes in the bottom baffle.

The new Valley Pans have slots in the Baffle instead of a couple of holes so oil can drain for Turbos. You DON'T need to drill any holes in the baffle. If you make any holes at all in the top of the new VP, any fuel leaks will drain into the crankcase, then your in DEEP ****.

The nut that holds the VP down near the rear has a hole in it to drain into the block casting drain passage.

 

[Spun4Fun]

WOWEE. If you punched holes in the TOP layer, well you did not pay attention on how to punch holes in the bottom baffle.

The new Valley Pans have slots in the Baffle instead of a couple of holes so oil can drain for Turbos. You DON'T need to drill any holes in the baffle. If you make any holes at all in the top of the new VP, any fuel leaks will drain into the crankcase, then your in DEEP ****.

The nut that holds the VP down near the rear has a hole in it to drain into the block casting drain passage.

So for me to better understand the difference : You are saying on the old VP style I should have punched holes all the way to the baffle (which I could not do) due to lak of space at the time.

With the new VP Made by Fel-pro I am not suppose to punch any holes at all ? Will it drain sufecient enough ?

 

[Spun4Fun]

The new VP arrived its not much difference between it and the old one that is guaranty.

I shined my light inside the new one. I finally can see how this Sucker put together. But still will cause the same issue regardless.


OLDBULL8 :

you stated I can't make a bigger hole like 1" in the new VP from the top opening thru the grommet which doesn't make any sense at least to me specially since every one here told me to put as much holes as I could at the time .
Please keep in mind that the only access I had was thru the grommet, any how the holes in the button of the new VP not much bigger if any, it's pretty much the same as the OLd stock one .

I guess I miss understood something along the way.

My thoughts would be a 1" hole between them 2 small holes from the bottom (By the arrow) that WILL Not penetrate all the way to the Middel tray. I am guessing that should be more than sufecient for the oil to return without backing up TOP

Is that sound about the right route to take as I want to fix this for good

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach