Intake TO VP

[Spun4Fun]

Since the IP is out of the truck, Ip lines and all the mess outa the way I was planing to remove the intake to clean it, clean the VP , put more holes inside the VP tray for the turbo drain and make sure it's sealed in the back

My Question is do I have to replace the VP since am removing the intake or I can do what I need to do and install the intake back with no issue. Do you apply RTV to the intake port side that mate the VP gasket ?

 

[DaveBen]

If you don't seal it up right, you will have a leaker. Take the Valley Pan off, clean it and reseal it and reinstall it. RTV works good in this application.

 

[Spun4Fun]

If you don't seal it up right, you will have a leaker. Take the Valley Pan off, clean it and reseal it and reinstall it. RTV works good in this application.

I always knew that the VP is one time use only and they can't be reused if you remove them. That is why i was only planing to remove the intake but wasn't sure if that will also might cause an issue .



VP aren't that expensive but i rather not to mess with it if i don't have to. However i wanted to follow the best practice to get the Job done right without have to look back

 

[IDIoit]

the valley pan is a stamped piece of steel.
once you tighten the intake down it crushes the "ring" around the intake ports to the manifold.
re-using a old VP is iffy, some people use RTV to seal it,
getting RTV inbetween the gasket and the head will be a chore.
odds are that the ends of your valley pan will leak after youre done

but I for 1 am in favor of buying a new one.
theres never enough time to do it right, but theres always time to do it over a 2nd time

 

[Spun4Fun]

what should i inspect once i remove the intake since i have a Banks Turbo, Will the Turbo be in the way specially towards the back, from my understanding there is no bolts holding the VP back there but there is the drain plug hole. Is there a specific MUST DO to avoid any potential leak



I found few VP one is NOS IF69 ENGINETECH INTAKE MANIFOLD GASKET 6.9

The 2nd one is the one offered everywhere by Few-pro any prefrence




IDIoit ..We got nothing but time.

 

[Hydro-idi]

I've always used felpro valley pans. They are easy to get ahold of and work well. Inspect VP before buying at your local auto parts store. They often get damaged in the boxes they come in.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Since the IP is out of the truck, Ip lines and all the mess outa the way I was planing to remove the intake to clean it, clean the VP , put more holes inside the VP tray for the turbo drain and make sure it's sealed in the back

If the VP is not leaking anywhere, leave it alone, why fix something that's not broke.
You can punch holes in the baffle under the VP thru the CCV hole, just use a pointed tool that will punch a couple of 1/4" holes.

There is no need to CLEAN the intake manifold, there's nothing there.

It's a ***** to seal a VP gasket unless the oil pan is off, besides the IP gear housing.

If you do, DON'T loose the drain hole fitting that holds the back of the VP down, THEY ARE UNAVAILABLE.

 

[icanfixall]

EVERY felpro valley pan I received had damage on the end. Sadly it is how they get packaged. I do not think that Enginetech is an oem pan but using an ice pick to punch holes in the baffle will fix oil drain back. the new pans already have the increased drain back built into them. No matter what you do please replace the pan. they are a one time use and do cruch to fit the area. In the back you need to remove the drain bolt like nut with the 3/8 square hex in it. the pans have a copper crush washer built into this piece. Only RTV seals the back edge too. I also used RTV on every sealing point of mine for the just in case issues. Removing the intake will not tell you if the seal is compromised between the head and the intake seal side of this gasket. I'm betting some of the composition seal that is made into the both sides of the steel valley pan rips off when you remove the intake.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Fellas it sound like its going to be unnecessary job from the way you speaking from experience. i have bigger fish to fry with their associated expense. I just thought it would be much doable without risk. going to steer my thought and focus on more hols in the existing VP ( which is painful and ***** to do ) install an additional Fuel/water separator.

 

[icanfixall]

I purchased 11% of the last valley pan drain nuts. That was bout 10 years ago and so far nobody has lost or needed one. Truth is Ford no longer has them but maybe International still stocks them. I have never asked if they do or not. I know I have a few new in the Ford bags of them.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Honestly the main reason i wanted to move the intake is to get a better access to the VP hole where the turbo drain tube , also to inspect the back of it. My hand ache still from the last time i tried to stuff it between the Turbo and the intake to install and seal that grommet. But from the way it sound its really not worth removing the intake as i will be causing more trouble,
Murphy law will apply real well

 

[OLDBULL8]

@icanfixall
I just sent one of those drain plugs to a guy in Cali, he lost his while doing a rebuild.

 

[Macrobb]

Couple of things:
Older motors(like my 88 blocks) have a set of coolant gallery ports on the heads which are open to the back side of the valley pan gasket. This is why you need the new gasket - because you don't want coolant to leak out of there(it'll end up in the oil).
If you have a newer motor(my 93 heads have them blocked off), you don't need to worry about that - it's just oil splashing around and air from the intake that needs sealing against.

On my banks sidewinder truck, I replaced the valley pan easily enough. Turbo doesn't interfere. Just be aware of the turbo drain pipe.

 

[Spun4Fun]

Couple of things:
Older motors(like my 88 blocks) have a set of coolant gallery ports on the heads which are open to the back side of the valley pan gasket. This is why you need the new gasket - because you don't want coolant to leak out of there(it'll end up in the oil).
If you have a newer motor(my 93 heads have them blocked off), you don't need to worry about that - it's just oil splashing around and air from the intake that needs sealing against.

On my banks sidewinder truck, I replaced the valley pan easily enough. Turbo doesn't interfere. Just be aware of the turbo drain pipe.

Yes I have a 93 model with 2nd gen sidewinder, I could never seal the turbo drain pipe right due to limited space back there. you saying it shouldn't be any issue if I choose to remove and install new one as some stated it could be an issue, truthfully all I was after is to remove the intake clean the VP real well to install the turbo drain correctly / few holes in the VP tray ,install the intake back without disturbing any thing else.

Is the Felpro VP try deeper than the Stock one if i choose to go that route?? Or it's the same

 

[Macrobb]

Yes I have a 93 model with 2nd gen sidewinder, I could never seal the turbo drain pipe right due to limited space back there. you saying it shouldn't be any issue if I choose to remove and install new one as some stated it could be an issue, truthfully all I was after is to remove the intake clean the VP real well to install the turbo drain correctly / few holes in the VP tray ,install the intake back without disturbing any thing else.

One thing you can do, if you feel up to modding things, is cut a 1" chunk out of the back "rib" on the intake manifold - the area where the glow plug relay used to mount.
This would let you install and seal the turbo drain /before/ installing the intake manifold, then install the intake manifold.
In theory this will reduce the down pressure on the back of the valley pan, and *might* make it leak... but I just put a good bead of RTV back there and never had an issue.

Is the Felpro VP try deeper than the Stock one if i choose to go that route?? Or it's the same

Save, as far as I can tell.