Install/ adjust TPS/FIPS question

[Michael Fowler]

I got the replacement injection pump installed. Starts and tuns fine.

I transferred the TPS/FIPS ( not sure which is the proper term) to the new pump and, used paint marks to get it in the same place it was on the other pump.
O/D light is flashing.

How do I adjust this?
I have no scan tools, or readout. I do have a digital volt and ohmeter.

Truck is a '94 7.3 4X4 supercab 7.3 factory turbo IDI with E4OD.

 

[kc0stp]

To start with a scan tool wouldn't do you much good on these trucks, anything it could tell you is easily found out without it, that said heres the instructions on adjusting it

http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...-and-adjustment-diesel-applications-only.html

 

[icanfixall]

Well its really simple but you need to make sure its installed correctly to the throttle shaft tab. When the throttle shaft is at the idle position you need to see one of the set screws up top. Now thats done the tps needs to be installed correctly to that tab. What I mean by this is look at the old tps. See the rusty sides of the tps where the tab was riding. Just set it up so that it has full turn rotation. Snug up the two bolts or fasteners that holds the adjustment fixture to the pump side. Find the center green wire in the wires going to the tps at the plug. You want to read voltage on that green wire. At idle throttle with the fast idle solenoid disconnected or on a warmed up engine the voltage you need to see is .96 for a very soft shidft or 1.2 volts for a firmer shift. I prefer the higher setting. I use a digital voltmeter and make sure I connect the ground to the battery. Higher voltage than 1.2 is not good either. If at wide open throttle you see 5 volts the e4od cpu will fail aqnd the blinking od lite will come on. All these voltages are done with the key on but engine off . Recheck to see if the setting are still what you want after your done. Test run and enjoy.

 

[Michael Fowler]

Thanks for the advice. I think I might have rotated the tab on the throttle shaft when I moved it to the "new" pump. I can see one screw, just a little forward of center when I look down from above the pump. The other screw is 90 degrees more to the front--I think it should be to the rear which means I am 90 degrees off. I'll re-orient it tomorrow and see if I can get the voltage within range.

 

[gandalf]

Look at the pictures I posted in the other FIPL/TPS thread. The one showing the set screws is about how you want things to look.


SET SCREWS on TPS

 

[Michael Fowler]

Thanks MUCH!!
I re-positioned the tab by a few degrees, and was able to adjust so i see a voltage of 1.13 at idle, and a max of 4.37 at WOT.

The O/D light is no longer blinking, and I am going for a drive.

I am glad you referenced the "middle" wire. Mine must have faded. It looks more light gray with a white stripe, but a different shade of gray than other gray wires. It might have be a light green at some point. Hoever, the voltage varies with throttle, and that is what it needs to do.

Thanks, again.

 

[icanfixall]

Your welcome for the middle wire thought. I usually just tell others the middle wire is what you need to see the voltage posted on. Glad your fixing it too. After you understand this is simple the next time. I got ripped off to the tune of $200.00 and two days work because the Ford dealership shop got the wrong part and made me wait another day to fix it. Thats many years ago and that dealer is closed now for around 6 years.... I win again. So far two local Ford long time dealers near me have closed their doors.. Too bad for them. Had they done a fair business I'm guessing they would still be in business today. One of them walking distance from my home closed and Ford Motor Company continued to pay the lease for 5 more years on the vacent property. What a bad business deal that was. they wouldn't even sub lease it out to another auto dealer. Talk about dumb.. Now it a dirt lot ...

 

[Michael Fowler]

I just had a poor experience with a local repair shop. I buy gas there, and they seemed competent. Hyundai broke down on my way home from work. Would not run more than 1/2 mile before quitting again. It set a CEL code, but I had no reader, and no auto parts stores in the area. Called a tow truck, and had it towed to the shop. Crank position sensor Charged me #00. Well, OK, the car was fixed, and back on the road in a day. I was OK with the price---until I looked at the itemized bill--$80 just to read the codes!!! OK--I understand that is extra profit. Then he charged me more than twice the labor and $50 more for the part than Hyundai listed it. What parts are more expensive than original factory parts?

Will not go back. Will have a cheap code reader in the car--every car---at all times.

 

[icanfixall]

Keep the reciete and turn them in for over chargeing you. The BBB and several other places will take them on for this.