Inquiry about fuel additives

gdhillon

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Ive been doing some research on fuel additives. I usually use power service, but with the price of diesel a fill up is getting more and more expensive. (and before anyone mentions running wmo or wvo thatll happen hopefully next summer) So, I was wondering what type of 2stroke oil could I use? I remember the no name 2cycle stuff at walmart would suffice?

Now i did just have a look at the tech article on this Mel has posted, and found this Super Tech Outboard 2-cycle TC-W3 engine oil as #7. But could a guy go into walmart get the cheapest 2stroke oil, dump it in the tank and fill up with diesel and be safe?
 

Wyreth

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If you can find a place to get Biodiesel, it lubes better than anything else tested. Depending on how much you end up paying, and how out of the way it is to get to. Running b10 or b20 may end up being cheaper than #2 + the twostroke oil.
 

Knuckledragger

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I use Supertech 2 stroke oil from Wally world and am happy with it. I just found out that it is made by a private label specialty company owned by Pennzoil-Quaker State. Until I find a reliable source of Bio around here, I am sticking with it.

The scientific study done and posted here (I guess it was by Mel) last year showed that all of the special additives did nothing to help lubricity for our engines. Lack of lubricity is the number one killer of the IP. As long as we are using ULSD, finding ways to add lubrication in the fuel should be the number one goal. Biodiesel was listed as best, two stroke oil was second. Even the Stanadyne additive was not very good with lubrication.
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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I have not yet looked at the scientific data mentioned above.

I have, however, studied the results of an independent analysis paid for by a bunch of guys on one of the Dodge/Cummins forum sites.

One thing I will point out about the results that study lists concerning Walmart 2-cycle oil, the ratio of ounces/gallon used in the test was quite conservative, and thus dropped 2-cycles rating down the ladder a few notches.

Had the test used the more commonly accepted ratio of one-ounce/gallon, then 2-cycle oil would have probably been nearer #1 in the results, instead of being down about #7.

Most name-brand diesel-fuel additives that claim to lube the pump are nothing more than re-labeled paint-thinners and, while they "may" clean the injectors, they actually lower the lube content of the fuel.


Myself, I have been using a MEASURED one-ounce/gallon Walmart TC-W3 two-cycle oil year round in all of my diesel engines for many years.

Once it starts getting cold enough to possibly need anti-gel, I also begin adding a MEASURED 7-ounces/20-gallons of white-bottle Power Service along with the two-cycle oil.

I have bought vehicles that had injector-pumps leaking fuel from various seals to quit leaking after a few months of using the two-cycle oil.

Regardless of what one uses, nothing is learned by random use and just dumping a guessed amount down the filler-neck once in a blue moon.
 

icanfixall

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My question is what does the original poster mean by... "Will t be safe" ??? Safe from what... After reading whats been posted I can only guess safe means from not having enough lube in the fuel. The low ash oil content is very important too so watch what you use like has been posted. Not everything you can add to the fuel will do the same just because you added something... Like a couple of quarts of engine oil or atf fluid... Stanadyne makes a very good lubrisity formula and I feel if thats all you used your pump and injecters will benifit from its use. I use the profromance formula by stanadyne and have found no issues with it.. Besides the smell it makes from behind the rear seat that the good wifey hates.. Complains all the time about it.... I feel its a wonderful aramatic aroma... Sure beats the hell out of an over cooked egg fart smell in the crewcab.....:eek::rotflmao Hey... Who said that.....:rolleyes::dunno
 

RLDSL

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I'll stick with running Howes in mine, and the tests didnt take into account that in a pickup or car that you are SUPPOSED to run THREE TIMES the listed amount on the lable ( as you are with most additives because those ratios were figures with big trucks and heavy marine diesels in mind that flow return fuel at a MASSIVELY higher rate which also naturally cools and lubes the injection pumps better ) If you run Howes at the rate it is supposed to be run for puckups, it will give all the lube needed ( remember, injection pumps were not designed to require oil for lubrication) and the Howes will prevent gelling in harsh northern temps( I spent a number of years pushing a big truck in the great white north,and never gelled with Howes, but have gelled at least once on everything else on the market ) Considering what burning oil does to ring packs, it'll be a cold day in hell before I dump any oil in there, it's enough of a battle to keep that mess from forming without intentionally adding to it.. That is why all the fuel additives have lubes that are light grade solvent types ( fancy wd40 type stuff ) just imagine if they used soot depositing lubes in engines that saw million mile service.... for one thing, those engines wouldnt be seeing million mile service.
 

idiabuse

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Using WMO and spraying water/methanol makes for a clean and affordable truck...



Javier
 

gdhillon

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What I meant was is my truck getting adequately lubed if I use the walmart stuff.....that sounds dirtys haha

Low ash eh, ill have to spend some time in the islesthen and see what ican find.

So getting a bottle of 2stroke oil and dumping it all in the tank really isn't the ideal thing to do then

Maybe ill look for howies at crappy tire, or just keep using ps. I dint know that the portion has to be multiplied by three though ill have to start doing that.


When you say oil damages ring lands does that mean everyone running wmo is internally damaging there engine to?
 

Thefarmboy21

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What's the benefit of 2-stroke oil over say....ATF or motor oil??? Granted I know ATF has red dye, but is that the only reason why everyone runs 2-stroke oil? I myself am looking for the cheapest, most effective lubricant to run in my rig. Let me restate that......what has the best "Cost to Benefit ratio" that we can dump in the fuel and how much do we use? Maybe that will help us all out haha.
 

chris142

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2 stroke oilis designed to be burned and leave few if any deposits. ATF and motor oil are not designed to be burned. The TCW3 2 strok oil regardles of brand is ashles and is designed to burn clean as to not oil up lakes and rivers when used in Jet ski's and 2 stroke boats. It's not a good choice for air cooled stuff like chainsaws and weedwackers.

I don't see a problem with OCASIONALLY running a low ash 2stroke oil if you can't find the TCW3 stuff. It would take thousands of miles for the carbon to build up if it ever did. And IMO a low ash 2 stroke oil will burn much cleaner than ATF or motor oil and if given a choice I'd use the low ash oil.

The TCW3 oil is also a detergent of sorts and should clean injector nozzles, piston rings etc.
 

RLDSL

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What I meant was is my truck getting adequately lubed if I use the walmart stuff.....that sounds dirtys haha

Low ash eh, ill have to spend some time in the islesthen and see what ican find.

So getting a bottle of 2stroke oil and dumping it all in the tank really isn't the ideal thing to do then

Maybe ill look for howies at crappy tire, or just keep using ps. I dint know that the portion has to be multiplied by three though ill have to start doing that.


When you say oil damages ring lands does that mean everyone running wmo is internally damaging there engine to?

Doesnt damage rings, helps add to the soot buildup. Have to remember a iddy biddy 2 stroke engine has ZERO null strokes, it fires on every stroke which keeps the oil fuel burning , but even then the little rings pack up and if you were to relate it to a comparable time to road miles it is a relitively short lifespan between teardowns
Rings have to remain flexing to continue to seal properly, when they pack up with soot and varnish, that is when compression goes in the toilet , engine gets hard to start, power drops off, blowby goes up, etc........
 

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