injector copper washer stuck in bore

[riotwarrior]

I was comparing the new washer to one of the old ones, and I noticed the new one has a slightly smaller circumference, and it is slightly curved. I am assuming the curved side goes down toward the bore, but I think once tightened it is going to be flat no matter what because the old one is flat. Probably don't matter. But I am contemplating my first move on removing the washers. I did find out there is a special tool specially designed to remove them. If this tool is used you need the center opening to be un molested to grab it correctly. But it has to be ordered, about $75.00 I have purchased a new screwdriver $6.00 and I think it will do the job. If I could purchase this tool locally I would buy one and add it to my collection. So far no one around here has one on hand. After looking at the pic of the washers I can tell the used one is larger simply because it was tightened and it stretched, well maybe.

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W T F...all talk no link to special tool...*** is that about...

U did not need buy a new screw driver...a freshly ground one would work...but maybe cheaper buy screwdriver n a grinder ...

yes the idea is that is a gasket and compressed under torque load and seals the injector in place. In compression it gets twisted and compressed at the same time so there is shear force on the gasket.

Hope u manage to get it out without too much difficulty.

 

[Baytonia]

Here is the link..... this is an awesome tool, I may just get one anyway.....


http://www.amazon.com/Tool-connection-Injector-Remover-Installer/dp/B00FEOO6RK

 

[needlenose]

For what it's worth, I had the same problem with at least half of mine when I changed my injectors. I just screwed the old injector back into the bore until it bottomed out, then backed it off about an 1/8 of a turn, maybe a little more. Hook up the injector line and start the engine. Rev it a few times and turn it off. Remove and check. They were loose every time. They just need a tiny bit of room to move and the cylinder pressure will force it loose.

 

[bbjordan]

A good soaking of penetrating oil and the screwdriver method usually works for me. Sometimes I have to fish them out with the dental pick (one of my favourite tools). But that there is a pretty cool trick needlenose!

 

[icanfixall]

Its a good idea to use a dental pick point dragged around the cast iron seat once the copper is removed. When you drag the point around the seat if it sticks anywhere thats a cut and needs to ne removed or the next copper washer wont seal the bore. Then you get bubbling out the injector to head area. That leads to carbon impaction around the injector. Then trying to remove that injector next time is nearly impossible.

 

[Agnem]

Remember to torque new injectors to 33 foot pounds. That prevents this problem from happening in the first place. The only get stuck when they are over-torqued.

 

[icanfixall]

Thanks for this message Mel. Some feel if a little tightness is good then a lot is better. These are a precision item that most have no idea how or what makes them function. I recall some members posting they found no copper washers and some found several copper washers. Its amazing what some garden variety shadetree mechanics will do to keep something running.

 

[Agnem]

Indeed! I had a truck come in recently where 3 of the 8 were stuck. All of those that were stuck were on one side only. Really makes you wonder some times.

 

[Baytonia]

Well the rain finally stopped, I'm have a Benz E320 in the shop now for total front end replacement, plan on having it done tomorrow then I am goanna jump on the washers. you guys have suggested many different manners to use for removal, and I appreciate that. I will report how it comes out, again thanks for the support.

 

[Baytonia]

Up date

Well guys today was a great day fro progress. I was able to remove all the stuck washers. This is how it went, first I tried the screwdriver, did not work for me. I then purchased a bolt and that worked great. Took about 5 sec per bore to remove.

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Well things were going well like clock work popping them out one after another, then I got down to the last one which is the hardest, the rear bore on the driver side, you cant see in the bore too close to the fire wall. So I stuck in the screw and began to turn it to tap in. It felt different, like it was harder to turn. So I stopped and pulled the screw out. I couldn't see in the bore, so I remembered I had my handy line cable camera.

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I shoved the camera down in the bore and looked at my video screen and low and behold there was no washer in the bore. so this cylinder was running without a washer. I zoomed in and could see a layer of carbon that had formed, so I cleaned all the bores well and scoped each of them with the camera to ensure they were all clean.

I then purchased 2 fresh batt. at Advance Auto

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I then began the process of mounting the starter and glow plug relay which were removed when I received the vehicle.....http://www.oilburners.net/forums/images/smilies/shrug.gif
Here is where I need help to verify I attached the wire correctly???

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If you can let me know if I have connected the wires in the right places I would appreciate it. I most be honest I connected my batt's and tapped the ignition key and the eng cranked over fine, so I am assuming the wiring is correct, but they may not be, am I that lucky??? Usually not I just want to make sure.

Tomorrow I plan to install the injectors with new washers. But,,,,,,before I try to crank and start, Do I need to replace the fuel in the Tanks??? The truck has sat for 2 years, does diesel go bad after 2 years? ill want to hear what the rule is, I think I remember reading some have said they ran the engines with old fuel then topped them off once the truck was running.

So tomorrow install injectors, install IP, I think I probably should put in a new fuel filter, fill it half with TF and diesel? crank to bleed air, then hope it fires..... Well this tread is long I will quit till tomorrow. thanks for the support from the start, Im close to seeing smoke, cant wait im excited.

 

[icanfixall]

Your missing a heavy cable from the passenger side battery positive and a heavy wire from the alternator. Both the alternator wire and the battery wire connect on the same side of the solenoid. The alternator has a hot line going to it all the time but the diode bridge opens to stop the voltage flow. If it did not open the battery will stay connected to the alternator field and drain the battery. Many have no idea this is a always hot wire. Same with the heavy cable feeding the starter. Its hot all the time too so be careful. Glad you got all the copper washers out and sure hope the missing seat is not cut. Might use the point of a dental pick and drag it around the seat. If it falls in a cut the pick will stop moving around the seat. Then you have to use a seat reamer to cut a new seat. Not a big problem either. Just don't try to use a new washer hoping it will fill in the cut seat. That wont happen.

 

[79jasper]

Just top of the tanks and dump in some good of diesel clean. Dose it good.
Can even fill the filter with it.
On the fender relay, I believe you have one too many wires on the outlet side. Should only be the starter wire.

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[Baytonia]

Update

I have it all back together, my problem now is I have no power to the GP's and IP. First I checked the fuse box under the dash. I don't know if there are any more fuses to check, maybe line fuses???

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I had current to all fuses but the 30 amp at the bottom. After I investigated it I determined no fuse should be there according to the cover. So I pulled out the fuse and there was only one contact on one side and it was dead. So I moved the fuse to the left.

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According to the cover the fuse should go there. However it made no difference and I really don't know what it does according to the cover.

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So now I need to know where to start to locate the bad or broken circuits. I don't have a schematic but I found a little info. If I am correct the flow starts at the ignition switch through a fused circuit, then splits to the IP and GP controller. My question is am I on the correct track??? and how do I locate the circuit I need to ohm out?
Right now I have headlights, tail lights, two dash lights brake and seat belts, that's it.
I also checked the main harness connection under the hood, it looked fine.

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I read on this site this connection always melts from too many amps. So I need to know where to go next to troubleshoot. Thanks...... Ill get there, its a project. I hate it dark at 5:30.

 

[79jasper]

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In this pic, the wire on the right side with the block thing on it should be on the other side.


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[Agnem]

I would try to get a sample of the fuel. You could have algae growing in there by now. If there is no black specs floating around, your good to go.