idi warm up selinoid

redneckaggie

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what do you mean how do they work? and I assume you are talking about the high idle soleniod mounted on the injection pump. It is an electonic solenoid that gets its signal from a coolant temp senor mounted toward the front of the drivers head. simple on off switch controlled by the temp
 

Hardass559

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i haven't tested it to see if its getting power or anything just noticed it wasent working since i adjusted it to get a hier warm up rpm to try and get it to start a bit easyer. most ofmy starting problems are batery conection ishues but i dont really know why ther causing my problems probly need to replace all of the battery wires but i cant really aford to do that. how does the glowplug controler know when the plugs are hot. when i first got the truck i could get more than one full cycle outta them now i gotta wait what seams like forever for them to run again. when i got the truck it would start no problems at 10 below but even at 70 now i gotta crank on it for a wile any sugestions on that
 

redneckaggie

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seems to me you have a culmination of issues wreaking havoc on your starting system first you need to find some electrical grease and clean all electrical connections I normally use a soft brass bristled brush for this. The main ones your are worried about are good clean battery connections at the post and at the grounds. to the frame or engine. Next remove the glow plug wires and test them to make sure you do not have a bad one. clean and reconnect those connections. If you have a bad contoller you can bypass it. The glow plug controller works off of resistance to know how hot the plugs are. I would bet you have multiple dirty connections causing your issues.
 

Hardass559

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yep thats about it tons and tons of problems and not alot of time to hunt them down least its not as bd to findnow as it was when i got the truck it usta have a homemade wiring harness i must have pulled a 25 foot long string of wires outta it when i re did the hole truck 2 years ago guess il take the spair engin harness apart and rebuild that one now to find new ends for the glow plugs
 

idi_econoline

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I remember reading that the 7.3 glowplug connectors can be substituted with the metal part of a crimp butt connector. Probably gets too hot to leave the plastic on.
 

Hardass559

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will see i know the femail side of bullet conector will work only problem with the 7.3 the 6.9 is easey standered spaid conection.
 

OLDBULL8

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The temp. sensor for the Cold Hi Idle is mounted close to the #1 glow plug on the passengers side, it's a pluggin connector and easy for it to disconnect. For the HI idle to work you have to cycle the go peddle one time to set it. For the bullet connectors that fit the GP's, they are butt connectors, one side is 16/14 AWG, the other side is 12/10 AWG, available at Azone or others in a box of 6 IIRC, no need to remove the plastic cover, it'll stand the heat, or remove the plastic and solder the 16/14 side to the wire instead of crimping them on.

Check your glow plug's for resistance with a VOM meter, good ones should read about 3-6 ohms to ground. If you have on or two bad you'll get a short GP cycle, at 50* or below, the cycle should be around 10 to 15 seconds, then an On/Off cycle up to 2 minutes.

You can adjust the Cold Hi Idle solenoid, with a 1/4" wrench you can screw the plunger in or out, tom set the Idle at 950 to 1000 RPM. The Cold Idle solenoid is energized until the head temp reaches 120 degrees.

Don't be a Hardass about it, just do all of the above. ;Really:D
 

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smolkin

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A standard female bullet connector fits the gps perfectly. I made a completely new gp harness recently out of 12 gauge, nothing gets too hot or anything, and the bullet ends I used had heat-shrink attached so I figure they can take the heat. I got them at Advance, 10 in a pack for about $7. I would have used butt connectors but they were too small.
 

trucknorris

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How do you adjust it? My "arm" moves up and down. I guess do I need to energize the solenoid and adjust?
 

franklin2

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I would not go to any effort in hooking up the cold advance wiring on the injection pump. My sensor was bad, so I wired it to a manual switch to do the same thing. I noticed no benefit in starting with it activated. I run without the advance or the high idle, and it starts and runs fine.
 
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