Hypermax up pipe clearancing issue

[George_7.3IDI]

I recently installed a hypermax non wastegated turbo on the 1992 F350 in my signature. When I installed the turbo I used a sawzall and cut the firewall/body flange into easily manageable strips and then bent them up flat with the bottom of the body. Unfortunately despite this and some additional beating on the firewall body flange area I don't believe I achieved enough clearance due to the fact that with the install completed it seems as though the up pipe is vibrating on either the top of the transmission just below where the firewall flange was or on the bent up metal that was the flange and which is currently pounded flat on the bottom of the body. I was looking at the body mounts also recently and I was thinking that if it's sagging or rotting out I could also replace them in order to hopefully overcome this clearancing issue. Below are several photos of the forward body mounts... if anyone can chime in on whether the mounts look like they are sagging or beginning to rot out I would appreciate it. Also on a side note as far as I can tell all I need is another 1/2" to 3/4" of clearance.

Drivers Side:

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Passenger Side:

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Thanks
George

 

[1994Diesel]

The mounts look ok to me, they arnt cracked or anything, but i dont know much about body mounts and stuff.

Maybe lifting the body one inch could get you the clearance?

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

George, I think ya need to do some more banging.
One of the guys here when he installed his turbo used a car scissor jack to push things back farther.

But looking at the mounts, they do appear to have some sag in them but not much. Best indicator for them is to look at the body lines between the cab and the bed of the truck. The bed is solid mounted so it won't give, but if the cab bushings are sagging, that will give some indication.

With your truck being a crew cab, there's alot of weight on those bushings to begin with.

 

[Todd C]

When I installed my Hypermax a few years back, I replaced the cab mount bushings, and installed 1/2 spacers to lift the body a little. I also bent back the flange. With that I had enough clearance, not excessive, but enough that I didn't have to worry about it. I think the 1/2" spacer and new bushings gained me about a full inch...
Todd

 

[Agnem]

I had to put hockey pucks on the Lady Moose to stop that rubbing. Even when it wasn't rubbing all the time, if you went down hill or had to do any breaking, the cab would slide forward enough to rub. Those crew cabs are just too heavy for only 4 mounts in my opionion.

 

[RLDSL]

If you do those with hockey pucks, don't forget the two up on the radiator support and you may need to trim the fan shroud out a bit on the bottom to keep it from hitting . I used some really large heavy washers that I got at Ace hardware that were teh diameter of the pucks as well for some more spacing and even loading

 

[George_7.3IDI]

Ok cool thanks for that information RLDSL.
Is that all I'll have to worry about in terms of modification to accommodate the hockey puck upgrade? Are there any concerns with the steering column, wiring, or anything like that.

Besides the body mounts at the frame rail near the driver and passenger doors and the ones at the radiator as mentioned by RLDSL above, where are the other ones located if there are additional locations.

 

[RLDSL]

Ok cool thanks for that information RLDSL.
Is that all I'll have to worry about in terms of modification to accommodate the hockey puck upgrade? Are there any concerns with the steering column, wiring, or anything like that.

Besides the body mounts at the frame rail near the driver and passenger doors and the ones at the radiator as mentioned by RLDSL above, where are the other ones located if there are additional locations.

I didn't personally have any problems with wiring or steering column.
Did have to make up new bolts for the rear mounts and teh front mounts out of some threaded rod, just moved the rear one forward to the position at the front of the cab