How to adjust the timing?

[bj58]

Ok so I've read all the post about you need to adjust the timing after installing new injectors and IP.
I've read about all the deferent types of meters and why they are deferent.

What I do not know is the how?
Where is the screw or bolt that has to be turned to adj the timing?

O does anyone have any good or bad things to say about Pensacola Fuel injectors?
They are 15min up the road and I like to buy locally when possible

Thanks
Bryan

 

[smolkin]

This is Mel's article on fuel inj/ IP servicing. It is a must read. Read it all before you touch anything!

I have heard more bad than good about Pensacola Diesel, but also that their customer service is better than it was. I have used Test Calibration here in Mobile, they are good and trustworthy. If something they sell you doesn't work as advertised, you can bring it back and they'll make it right.

Great to see another Mobile IDI! We should have a mini meet.

 

[bj58]

Very nice post by Mel.
I've read it a few times now, but it still does not tell me how to adj the timing. Or maybe I'm missing something.

Smolkin,
I live in Loxly and work in Mobile. what about U?

 

[smolkin]

Smolkin,
I live in Loxly and work in Mobile. what about U?

Live and work in Midtown Mobile. The timing is adjusted by rotating the IP itself in the gear cover. With the engine OFF you loosen the three nuts that hold the IP and rotate. It can be tough to get to these nuts with a regular open-end wrench and so a lot of folks make their own "tool"-- often a cheapo open-end filed down thinner so that it fits between the IP and stud. Sometimes you have to loosen inj lines to get it to rotate where you want it, or so you are not putting too much stress on the lines (you don't want to break one). Timing can be done "by ear", which is all I've ever done, but as many here have shown it will always be a few degrees off the optimal. A dime's width at a time is all you should move it, and I don't recall 100% but I think (facing the rad, looking at engine) CW is advancing, CCW retarding (correct me if wrong someone). And make sure you tighten EVERYTHING back up before you start it up!!

 

[icanfixall]

Adjusting the timing on these engines can be done several differant ways. The most commonly used method is by the pulse type timing method. The other method is the luminosity type method where you remove a glow plug and install a probe that sees the combustion flash. That type of timing method is not so popular because of the plug removal issues. The pulse method is where you just clamp on a probe to either number 1 or 4 injector line and place a magnetic pickup in the dampner location and time the engine at 200 rpm. simple and quick to do. There are several types of timing meters available too. I use the Kent Moore J33300-A meters. This meter can time by useing the pulse, luminosity or by a timing lite method. They are a versitale meter. Some prefer the Ferrit meters and an adjustable timing lite. I have used the adjustable timing lites but... They really can't time down to one tenth of a degree like the kent moore meters do. Also you need room to see the timing marks on the dampner tab. These injection pumps can't be set like a gasser engine timing can be set. Any loosening of the injection pump when its a running engine will torque over the pump and usually breaks the main shaft. These pumps make around 2000 lbs of pumping pressure and thats plenty of twisting torque made too. The pump has three nuts holding them tight to the gear housing too. Those are a 9/16 nut. Only one is easy to reach too. The other two on the right and left sides are hard to reach but the special tool makes them an ok job. See my timing viedos that I made showing the tool I made and the factory tool plus plenty of other information about pump removel and timing as its done.

 

[bj58]

Thanks guys,

Now I just have to get the $$ for an IP and injectors.

Smolkin I talked Test Calibration They had a pump for same price as Pensacola, so that's good.
The injectors they were a bit high on and did not have in stock.

I'm pulling my 5th wheel to Panama City next week. Run 55mph the whole way should make my wife come off some money sooner then later.
Replaced the coolant last night (did not know what was in it) I was reading about a coolant filter I think I'm going to try it. The inside of the radiator had a lot of build up for what little bit I could see.
I put the DCS additive in it and have test strips on order.

Thanks again.

 

[jnkyrdfourd]

i agree on test cal, i used them on some equip. at work and had good results, i used mylex international for my injectors, they seem to be pretty good, they are located just above hattiesburg, i should have used them for my pump to but i used bwd instead on my personnal veh and had to go through 4 pumps before i got a good one.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Corrections to the post's. Surely not flaming.
2000 RPM not 200 RPM
CCW to advance. Rotate towards passenger side.
CW to retard. Rotate towards drivers side.
Read Hall of Shame about Pensacola Diesel.
It's not a Dime's width, it's a Dime's thickness.

If your radiator is as bad as you say, badly lime coated, then you may have Hi coolant temps while towing that 5er. Do you have an auxilliary cooler, if you have an automatic tranny. No truck info in your signature.

 

[Wyreth]

The inside of the radiator had a lot of build up for what little bit I could see.

Just a warning, you may want/need to budget a new radiator before the trip. When I first got mine, the rad had some buildup, but not a huge amount. I wasn't concerned because it never heated up..... Then I hooked about 10K up to it, hit 240 within 5 miles on the highway.

Went with a nice aluminum rad, that a shop just happened to have in stock. Never gets to 200 anymore. (and I've done some mean things to this truck since then)

 

[bj58]

Oldbull8,
I've pulled the 5ther about 30miles without any problem on my temp. It's a 5 speed manual.

Wyreth an aluminum rad would be great, I'm making a list of needed parts and the order of need/want.
The rad is on the list. so far i'm up around $1200 on needed parts.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Oldbull8,
I've pulled the 5ther about 30miles without any problem on my temp. It's a 5 speed manual.

Wyreth an aluminum rad would be great, I'm making a list of needed parts and the order of need/want.
The rad is on the list. so far i'm up around $1200 on needed parts.

Aw come on, put your truck in your sig., this isn't a guessing game.
List the parts and cost of them your going to get. Guys on here just love to recommend place's and cost on where to get them.

 

[bj58]

how is my sig now.

 

[ah1988ford]

I have a pensecola pump spend a little extra $$$ and get a better one it has just been a huge headache.
There is a place called nozzle masters in orlando I was told they do rebuilds by anothe member here.

 

[bj58]

yea i'm going to go with Test Calibration.
There prices are inline with Pensacola fuel injectors.
I've also talked with a few local auto part stores and they have only heard good things about Test Calibration.

Now it's just getting my wife to come off the $$$.