How good of a motor is it?

lindstromjd

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That guy is obviously an a$$hole and an idiot. Don't listen to him. He clearly doesn't know anything about diesels other than how to hit the "go pedal" and make it smoke like any other dipsh*t with a diesel truck.

And for the people who compare the 6.2/6.5 to the 6.9/7.3, well, they don't know anything either in my opinion. That's like comparing a 302 to a 460 and saying that the 302 is a piece of junk because it doesn't pull well. Two completely different engines designed with completely different end-goals for each. The 6.9/7.3 is a MEDIUM duty diesel, built for towing and low end torque. The 6.2/6.5 is a LIGHT duty diesel, built for fuel economy. Have you ever seen a 6.9/7.3 get in the high 20's for fuel mileage? No? Well, clearly they must be a piece of crap then because the 6.2/6.5 can do that all day long. Have you ever seen a 6.9/7.3 with over 300 horsepower on mostly basic mods? No? Well, clearly they must be a piece of crap then because again, the 6.2/6.5 can be brought up to 300 horses rather easily.

One last thing... if that guy drives a Super Duty 7.3, then I'm sure his head would have exploded if you had ever explained to him that your OBS PSD engine was stronger than his SD engine. The SD ones came with bigger injectors, yes, but were heavier trucks. So the power gain from the injectors is negligible. Also, the OBS engines were made with forged internals, and the SD engines are powdered-metal. Making the OBS engines capable of handling much more power than the SD ones.

Sigh... end rant.
 

tanman_2006

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My 6.5's have been great. Cooling is their biggest downfall. I use mine for heavy towing.

As Lindstrom said, the 6.5l can run wot all day and put down 300hp/500ft/lb to the rear wheels.

If you have a mechanical pump the Conestoga can build you a pump. If you have and electronic IP then get a kojo tune from Leroydiesel.com.

Best part of a 6.5l is that you can buy a brand new improved casting block that fixes the previous cracking issues. Those engines are also available used from military surplus.
 

bdemutis

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Does anyone know where to get the stock air intake boot. I would like to hook the valve cover hose back into the air intake but my hose was replaced and the valve cover just has a k&n crankcase breather on it.
 

tanman_2006

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Is the intake hole plugged?

Just find a 90* pipe fitting that fits tight in the grommet on the valve cover and hook on a hose that runs to the frame and make a road draft tube.
 

bdemutis

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Is the intake hole plugged?

Just find a 90* pipe fitting that fits tight in the grommet on the valve cover and hook on a hose that runs to the frame and make a road draft tube.
No the original intake was gone so I used a 90° elbow and a k&n filter but they put a crank case filter on the valve cover hole I need to figure how to rig the valve cover hose to my intake.
 

tanman_2006

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Its really not needed.

As for the intake itself either get a stock 98-00 intake or buy an s&b intake form Leroydiesel. The open element style filter does not work well on a 6.5l
 

lindstromjd

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Best part of a 6.5l is that you can buy a brand new improved casting block that fixes the previous cracking issues. Those engines are also available used from military surplus.

Not to mention, the new cast blocks are cast by Navistar, for anyone who says that the casting is too weak. Wonder why that brand name sounds familiar? :dunno ;Really
 

towcat

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Not to mention, the new cast blocks are cast by Navistar, for anyone who says that the casting is too weak. Wonder why that brand name sounds familiar? :dunno ;Really
the blocks are cast by Navistar, but the engineering is done my GM. The block is half the weight of a Ford IDI and has a tendency to twist when putting out high HP. I've torn the webs out of a few blocks on my own over the years. the deep skirt on the Ford IDI makes a huge difference on the block twisting. the upside is the acceleration of a 3/4 ton reg cab truck with a 6.5 and a banks wastegated turbo stolen from a Ford, makes for a lauch off the like that can be described as "explosive".
 

towcat

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The new blocks have different webs. Its the gm/Detroit design retooled and different metallurgy by navistar.
you can change the content, but the engineering will always be the same. both blocks are now high nickel cast iron, both have four bolt mains. the Ford IDI, has the additional stiffening of a deep skirt cast in. only way the GM can come near that is with a block girdle made of stiffer material than high nickel iron. Yup.....forged steel and that is some major $$$$. here's an old thread the 3/4t buildup. I need to finish the thread, but enjoy in the meantime. http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...ctory-6-5-into-a-73-87-pickup&highlight=notes
 

tanman_2006

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For only another 1k you can get the p400 w/ main girdle, hardened valve seats, and forged crank.

The GEP 6500 has (compared to oem) thicker mains, thicker casting in general (over 100# heavier than OEM iirc), and better metallurgy.

Towcat, if you busted a block on either of those then I'd sure like to see it.
 

bdemutis

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Its really not needed.

As for the intake itself either get a stock 98-00 intake or buy an s&b intake form Leroydiesel. The open element style filter does not work well on a 6.5l
I just put a open filter on it for know because it had no filter at all on it because the stock air box was broken.
 

bdemutis

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Also oil leaks are these engines common for oil leaks like the 7.3 I think I have a oil leak but I haven't crawled under to check my oil pressure is good and hasn't dropped but I see some thick oil on my lift kit drop bar near the back of the motor. It looked kind of like sludge. Is the rear main seal known for going or any other things I should check that are known to leak.
 

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