How do you get to the bottom bolt on the IP?

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I tried to advance my timing recently. I was able to loosen the top 2 bolts, but just could not get a wrench on the bottom one. to me, it felt like an allen bolt of some sort?

Its a stock 94' injection pump never been touched before. how do i loosen this? thanks
 

gonecrazyi

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Very carefully lol.

I remove the harness for the glow plug sensor and use a craftsman wrench.

I guess smaller hands come in handy for this kind of stuff lol.
 

gonecrazyi

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Others have taken a normal wrench and ground it down so that it isnt as thick, this makes it easier to get behind the IP.
 

Rot Box

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I heated up a wrench and bent it to fit. Very tight, but it worked great ;Sweet
 
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this sounds crazy, but does anyone have a pic of the wrench, and how you modified it? It would be much easier for me to copy it that way
 

gonecrazyi

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I havent had to modify anything to get to it, and yes the bolt is the same size as the others.

But it does take some finess to get the wrench in there. I have found that taking off the high idle helps for those with bigger hands. The last time a bunch of us IDI guys got together I ended dealing with that bolt on the trucks I was there for lol.
 

gandalf

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There are three studs with nuts which hold the IP. There is one top center, and two spaced at the bottom. See the picture below of the studs. In this picture the IP has been removed and the studs are facing the rear of the truck.

The second picture is the IP wrench which comes from Rotunda. You can see that it has a crescent bend, and is also offset. Some members have been able to heat and bend a straight wrench to work. I think that you may also have to grind a normal wrench to be thinner. It's a tight fit, even with the proper shaped wrench.
 

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icanfixall

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Sears sells a wrench that looks almost just like that OTC wrench. Its a 9/16 wrench and needs some gentle grinding to fit but it works. I made my own wrench then got the same OTC in the pics. BTW thanks for the great clear pics. Those are so important here... Why some members will post a blurry pic is beyond me... Kinda...cookoo:D
 

1994IDI

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Gandalf has already showed it very clearly, there is no bottom nut. The two lowest nuts are at roughly 4 o'clock, and 8 o'clock. I re-timed my truck last week and was able to loosen and tighten all three bolts with a regular, generic 9/16 open end wrench that you buy at any parts store for $5. I simply cut it in half with a hack saw. I used the half of the wrench that was open end, and I was able to get each nut without removing the solenoid. It's not comfy, but you just have to get in there and do it. Good luck.
 

DeepRoots

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for the driverside I use a regular wrench and remove the one bolt with the 9/16th head so I can get more movement on the ip nut.
Pass side, I found a crappy wrench made in india that was in my toolbox. It is so thin and short it isn't good for anything else, but it works on that nut.
 

gandalf

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Remove the fast idle solinoid, makes access much easier.

This next picture shows the IP about ready for removal. This is about as good as it gets. The area is about as clear as it's going to get. You can see the top stud and nut, and a corner of the passenger side stud and nut. The driver's side stud and nut are in an equal position on the other side. It's easy to see why people have so much trouble. There are still things in your way making it pretty tight. You can begin to understand why you need a skinny wrench.

The next problem, once you get all three nuts loosened, is actually rotating the IP. Most of them will fight you every bit of the way. After all, you've got nine hard lines, including the feed from the fuel filter. You're trying to rotate a pump anchored by nine hard lines.
 

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