mankypro
Learning Slowly...
Anyone know how I would go about opening up the lip in the fuel filler neck so I can get a high speed pump's nozzle in my filler?
High speed diesel filler neck?
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dakotajeep
Patrolling
I read one but cant seem to find it now. I want to do that since it would take way less time to fill the tanks and I wouldnt have to go near the gas pumps when I am pulling a big trailer!!!
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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Modifications to the filler-neck won't do any good, until you crawl under there and remove those stupid roll-over-valve thingies from the main tank vents.
When I first bought my truck, many many years ago, everytime I tried to fill the tanks, I ended up with more fuel on the ground and in my boots than went in the tank.
I pulled the main vent-hoses out of the grommets on top of the tanks, threw them and the silly roll-over-valves away, and replaced the 7/16 vent-hose with 1/2" fuel line, routed up high and dry.
That modification, without doing anything else, allowed me to use the high-volume big truck nozzle at full blast.
These vent hoses are in no way connected to the filler-neck; they are mounted in grommets in the tops of the tanks; those little short hoses alongside the filler-neck are there only for looks and serve no purpose in venting.
When I first bought my truck, many many years ago, everytime I tried to fill the tanks, I ended up with more fuel on the ground and in my boots than went in the tank.
I pulled the main vent-hoses out of the grommets on top of the tanks, threw them and the silly roll-over-valves away, and replaced the 7/16 vent-hose with 1/2" fuel line, routed up high and dry.
That modification, without doing anything else, allowed me to use the high-volume big truck nozzle at full blast.
These vent hoses are in no way connected to the filler-neck; they are mounted in grommets in the tops of the tanks; those little short hoses alongside the filler-neck are there only for looks and serve no purpose in venting.
dakotajeep
Patrolling
Unless, the nozzle wont fit into the filler neck due to its size......which is the problem, along with the issues you mentioned.....
LCAM-01XA
Full Access Member
yeah, I pulled up to a big truck pump once by mistake, it wasn't labeled and it didn't look any different from a the regular pumps, however the nozzle wouldn't fit in the filler hole of the truck.
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
my transfer pump's nozzle is hi-cap too, so it's a pain to stand there and have to hold it while filling up with WMO 
I think this is it. This has been asked a few times. Maybe Okie ******'s process deserves a spot in the hall of fame?
Posted by Okie ******:
Here ya go...but if you don't have the time to do the whole mod, try just removing the the upper neck and use the hole saw around the inside edge of the tube. Remember to take the "pilot bit" out first, it just gets in the way. If you don't do the whole job, you'll need to add a piece to the OEM plastic vent tube long enough to reach up past where the fill nozzle will fit in. Flatten the vent tube at the top to give room for the nozzle. This should work.
Take the filler neck out and remove the black hose that goes into the tank. It's stubborn but it will come off. I believe a one inch hole saw (remove the pilot bit first)is needed to gut the filler neck and throw the internals away. You'll want to cut into the inner part of the filler with a reciprocating saw to make pulling it out easier. You'll have to work it a bit but it'll come out eventually. A quarter inch piece of copper tubing needs to be brazed or epoxied to the top of the filler neck after drilling a hole in it. The tubing must be above where the end of the nozzle sits in the filler during fueling. Next you'll need to get to the top of the tanks. The rear tank is dropped by removing the skid plates that hold the tank up. Loosen the top straps to take pressure off the plates. The rollover valve in the top of the tank has a breather hose attached to it. Take the valve out and remove the guts. Drill it out as far as you can and then re-install being careful not to drop it in the tank or push it too far in the gromet or you'll be dropping the tank to fish it out. Get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line to run from the rollover valve to the fitting brazed on the filler. That is your new breather. Wire tie the hose into place and you should be good. If you need to drop the tanks all the way be sure to get(buy, rent, steal) the 'fuel line disconnect tool' or else the couplers aren't coming apart! This "mod" is a hassle/pain-in-the-****, but worth it. This ‘MOD’ makes filling the tanks soooo much easier/faster. Have fun,
Posted by Okie ******:
Here ya go...but if you don't have the time to do the whole mod, try just removing the the upper neck and use the hole saw around the inside edge of the tube. Remember to take the "pilot bit" out first, it just gets in the way. If you don't do the whole job, you'll need to add a piece to the OEM plastic vent tube long enough to reach up past where the fill nozzle will fit in. Flatten the vent tube at the top to give room for the nozzle. This should work.
Take the filler neck out and remove the black hose that goes into the tank. It's stubborn but it will come off. I believe a one inch hole saw (remove the pilot bit first)is needed to gut the filler neck and throw the internals away. You'll want to cut into the inner part of the filler with a reciprocating saw to make pulling it out easier. You'll have to work it a bit but it'll come out eventually. A quarter inch piece of copper tubing needs to be brazed or epoxied to the top of the filler neck after drilling a hole in it. The tubing must be above where the end of the nozzle sits in the filler during fueling. Next you'll need to get to the top of the tanks. The rear tank is dropped by removing the skid plates that hold the tank up. Loosen the top straps to take pressure off the plates. The rollover valve in the top of the tank has a breather hose attached to it. Take the valve out and remove the guts. Drill it out as far as you can and then re-install being careful not to drop it in the tank or push it too far in the gromet or you'll be dropping the tank to fish it out. Get a new piece of 1/4" fuel line to run from the rollover valve to the fitting brazed on the filler. That is your new breather. Wire tie the hose into place and you should be good. If you need to drop the tanks all the way be sure to get(buy, rent, steal) the 'fuel line disconnect tool' or else the couplers aren't coming apart! This "mod" is a hassle/pain-in-the-****, but worth it. This ‘MOD’ makes filling the tanks soooo much easier/faster. Have fun,
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
Fuel line disconnect tool? ***? Mine seem to be all held on with hose clamps...
Dad and I modified my filler necks in a simiar fashion as Okie ******. We hogged out the neck, moved the roll over valve, and the vent is 7/8 inch now. But, YOU NEED A BODY LIFT TO HAVE THE ROOM.
I can fill up an empty tank at "big rig" pumps and it takes less than 60 seconds per tank and I don't spill a drop. The tanks are full as well, no need to keep "topping it off."
I cannot stand to use the "regular" diesel pumps anymore as they seem to take forever.
I need to replace a few of the hoses in the future and I should take some photos. There are only a few in my webshots gallery. Maybe I'll do an article on the "***** Style" filler neck mod......one of these days.
Anyway, here are the two photos I have:
Heath
I can fill up an empty tank at "big rig" pumps and it takes less than 60 seconds per tank and I don't spill a drop. The tanks are full as well, no need to keep "topping it off."
I cannot stand to use the "regular" diesel pumps anymore as they seem to take forever.
I need to replace a few of the hoses in the future and I should take some photos. There are only a few in my webshots gallery. Maybe I'll do an article on the "***** Style" filler neck mod......one of these days.
Anyway, here are the two photos I have:
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You must be registered for see images
Heath
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MIDNIGHT RIDER
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My filler-necks/vents are way simpler than any of the above described mods; I'm not knocking any of the good work any of you guys did, just saying that mine work perfect and don't have all of those extras.
The big vents that used to have the rollover-valves are simply plain old 1/2" fuel-hose and the filler-necks only have the big hose into the tanks.
There is nothing plumbed from the big vents to the filler-necks, no brazing, no drilling.
I just pulled out and tossed the original vent hoses, along with the valves, then slicked up the grommets with vaseline and pushed in 1/2" hose where the 7/16 used to be.
It has been so long that I can't remember just what I did to allow the big nozzle to fit; but, honestly, I don't remember having to do a thing.
Those short hoses that parallel the filler-necks have been plugged with bolts and clamped off.
The big vents that used to have the rollover-valves are simply plain old 1/2" fuel-hose and the filler-necks only have the big hose into the tanks.
There is nothing plumbed from the big vents to the filler-necks, no brazing, no drilling.
I just pulled out and tossed the original vent hoses, along with the valves, then slicked up the grommets with vaseline and pushed in 1/2" hose where the 7/16 used to be.
It has been so long that I can't remember just what I did to allow the big nozzle to fit; but, honestly, I don't remember having to do a thing.
Those short hoses that parallel the filler-necks have been plugged with bolts and clamped off.
MIDNIGHT RIDER
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Mine has those silly push-on lines with plastic keepers.
I have never needed anything other than my fingers and a straight screw-driver to remove/re-insert them.
A few times, when one of the clips has broken, or been missing for whatever reason, a plain old zip-tie, ran through the slots and zipped, has served the purpose well.
At present, the only ones of those left in the system are the ones at the tank-senders, soon to be replaced with JIC bulk-head fittings and home-made draw-straws.
mankypro
Learning Slowly...
So looks like what you do is something like this:
1. Take the neck off, hole saw the inner lip.
2. Either gut the rollover valve (if so equipped) and run a line from it to the neck's breather - and/or plug the existing neck breather and just suspend the breather from the roloover valve somwhere above the tank.
1. Take the neck off, hole saw the inner lip.
2. Either gut the rollover valve (if so equipped) and run a line from it to the neck's breather - and/or plug the existing neck breather and just suspend the breather from the roloover valve somwhere above the tank.
I used this modification on one of my '86 trucks. Takes 4-5 minutes to fill from dead empty to full card scan included.
Rick
Rick
