Did a little research for ya,,,,,
Heres a store bought unit.
HIC900
And here is directions to make one using UpFitter switches
if your truck is so equipped.
Ok, this may be a bit complicated, but pay attention - you can do this. Once completed, one UpFitter switch will raise the idle to 1200 rpm (6.0L).
Project Cost: $47,560 (including truck)
Project Time: 4-6 weeks (includes truck ordering, building, & delivery time)
You will need the following:
1ea - 2005 Ford Truck
2ea - red butt connectors (or solder & tape)
1ea - available UpFitter switch (although any 12v switched source will do)
1ea - access to this forum
1ea - crimping tool
1ea - long nose pliers
6" - stranded hook-up wire (14-16 ga)
11 mm - socket
1ea - ratchet for socket
1ea - ability to follow directions (with pictures)
Optional:
1ea - garage large enough to enclose the truck (especially when raining)
1 to 6 - 12 oz refreshments
1 - Ford Tough tatoo
1ea - Electrical Engineering Degree
1pr - non-conductive footwear
Directions:
Remove all rings, watches, & bracelets (a must when doing electronics)
Remove the drivers side access panel (below the steering wheel)
Using the 11mm socket & ratchet, remove the 4 bolts which hold the fuse panel. Gently, pull the fuse box through the opening and leave it hang.
Look for the UpFitter wire bundle as noted in this photo:
Choose which switch you want to use. I used Aux-4 as it is one of the 10 amp circuits and only a signal voltage is required. Here is a list of wires:
Aux-1 Circuit No 1936 wire color: Orange/Lt. Green [30amp]
Aux-2 Circuit No 1933 wire color: Orange [30amp]
Aux-3 Circuit No 1934 wire color: Orange/Yellow [10amp]
Aux-4 Circuit No 1935 wire color: Orange/Lt. Blue [10amp]
Pull the black end off the chosen wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Crimp one end of one butt connector to this wire.
Prepare the 6" wire by stripping 1/4" of the insulation off both ends.
Crimp one end of the 6" wire to the open end of the butt connector used above.
Crimp another butt connector to the other end of the 6" wire.
Locate the top of the parking brake pedal (approximately 6" below the AUX wires).
Locate the SEIC/CASC wire bundle (about 12 wires with black ends) as noted in this photo:
Locate the solid ORANGE wire. There are many orange wires in this bundle, but most have a color tracer. You must use the SOLID orange wire.
Pull the black end off the SOLID ORANGE wire and strip off 1/4" of the insulation.
Insert the SOLID ORANGE wire into the open end of the butt connector attached to the 6" hookup wire.
This completes the electrical portion of this project. You need to replace the fuse box and access cover.
Testing
All the following are required to enable high idle:
Parking brake applied.
Foot off of service brake.
Vehicle in PARK (automatic trans.)
Foot off of clutch (manual trans.)
Foot off of accelerator pedal
Vehicle speed is 0 mph (stationary)
Brake lights functional
Engine at a stable base idle speed
Start your engine! Flip the UpFitter switch. The engine will idle up to 1200 rpm. If any of the required items changes state, the engine will go to its normal idle speed. If the item state is changed back to the required state, the idle will return to 1200 within 3 seconds.
There are many options available (higher rpm, gas engine information, E-series, etc) and all are noted in this document I noted in my first post in this thread (thanks Y-Guy).
Happy Hi-Idling!