Help with my clutch

steelheadguy

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86 with T19 4 speed

Clutch pedal and fork do not move, pedal is completely stiff. Forcing it broke the push rod, but has been replaced.
There are ball bearings visible through the window under the flywheel.

I do not know much about transmissions, but Im guessing the throwout bearing is bad. I am preparing to lower the transmission to replace the throwout bearing along with pressure plate and clutch plate. I was also told to resurface the flywheel.
or could it be something easier? With just the fork?

I am very grateful to anyone who replies to this thread. It will be full of almost clueless question from me so I am organizing them. Feel free to answer one or all!

1.Where do I begin to lower the transmission?
2. Do I need to disconnect the transfer case?
3. Do I need to remove the starter?
4. Do I drain the oil?
5. Is there anything else I should do while here?
 
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steelheadguy

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I like taking pics, so some might be pointless, but some might help.

Anyway. I went ahead and removed the slave cylinder. Which requires no tools except maybe a flathead screwdriver to lightly pry with. It seems the reason I cant push the pedal down is because the fork is stuck in the rear position.

View media item 183View media item 184I easily pulled off the rubber fork boot and then pulled out the fork. Again the fork is only held in by a little clamp and requires no tools.

View media item 185This is my first time looking in through where the fork enters. Is this the throwout bearing behind the pivot post? Everything seems very dry and loose.
 
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DaveBen

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The pics showed up now. Yes it maybe the throw out bearing. Now the fun begins...
 

steelheadguy

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I am looking at clutch kits and found this LUK kit. Will the 12" kit fit my flywheel? Im having trouble understanding the difference between 11" and 12" plates and whether or not they are interchangeable.


http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5350-07083843.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=1975-1979,+1983-1987+Ford+F350+Clutch+Kit+LUK+75-79,+83-87+Ford+Clutch+Kit+1983+1986&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CIi1rZSx8NECFYpffgod0f0AJQ&ad=47362750812

Edit: so far disconnected the transfer case linkage, removed both drive shafts, and started to jack up the transmission and transfer case. Next step is to undo tranny shifter and crossmember.
 

Kheg

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I would strongly suggest pulling the seat, roll the carpet and insulation back, unbolt and remove the dog house. I've done it with the dog house installed....once. I won't pull my transmission without removing it now. It's well worth the 5 minutes spent.

Good luck!
 

chris142

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I would strongly suggest pulling the seat, roll the carpet and insulation back, unbolt and remove the dog house. I've done it with the dog house installed....once. I won't pull my transmission without removing it now. It's well worth the 5 minutes spent.

Good luck!
5 minutes? Took me a whole day to pull all that.never again!
 

steelheadguy

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Well today the rain paused in Oakridge, Oregon and the sun came out. I was able to make a little progress.
I would strongly suggest pulling the seat, roll the carpet and insulation back, unbolt and remove the dog house. I've done it with the dog house installed....once. I won't pull my transmission without removing it now. It's well worth the 5 minutes spent.

Good luck!
Thank you for this suggestion. I cant believe I was going to try this without access from the top. It took more than 5 minutes but nowhere near a day. Maybe a half hour.
4 bolts holding the seat in. 2 for seat belts. 6 tiny screws for trim. then Pull the carpet. It made pulling the shift levers way easier.
 

Kheg

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Thank you for this suggestion. I cant believe I was going to try this without access from the top. It took more than 5 minutes but nowhere near a day. Maybe a half hour.

Well....ok 5 minutes was a bit optimistic. Glad it worked out well for ya.

While you have your kick panels pulled; If your truck sees mud you should take a look at the inside of each fender from inside the cab. (The area previously covered by the plastic kick panel) You'll see a rectangular galvanized cover held on by six 5/16 head screws (I believe). The cover has a tar-line sealant and could be a ****** to remove.

Pull the cover and reach down inside the fender. If you feel dirt or mud take the time to flush it out. I scooped roughly a cup and a half of mud from the inside of my fenders and literally flushed the remaining junk with a garden hose. This area of the fender is where the cowl drains. When clogged with mud or leaves they remain wet from drainage at the cowl and the bottoms of the front fenders rot out.
 

steelheadguy

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BUMP

I am looking at clutch kits and found this LUK kit. Will the 12" kit fit my flywheel? Im having trouble understanding the difference between 11" and 12" plates and whether or not they are interchangeable.


http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/MC/5350-07083843.html?utm_content=MC&utm_term=1975-1979,+1983-1987+Ford+F350+Clutch+Kit+LUK+75-79,+83-87+Ford+Clutch+Kit+1983+1986&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CIi1rZSx8NECFYpffgod0f0AJQ&ad=47362750812
 

Kheg

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Sorry man I can't help ya with yur clutch dilemma. Being an '87 my 6.9 came with trans & clutch components shared with the '88-'94 7.3 idi.
 

jwalterus

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Mine's the ******* child truck, '87 model assembled 12/86........

made on or before 4-30-87 you have to use an 11" with a factory flywheel
 

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