Help! What's wrong with my turbo setup, why no boost?

homelessduck

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Port size won't matter. 5psi is 5psi

That's wild. This is thr first idit I have heard of that has positive pressure without a load on the engine.


Maybe this is actually bad news for me .. maybe something is putting a load on it while in park/ neutral? I sure hope not ..
 

homelessduck

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I just went outside to check and I tried to make a video. It slapped 5lbs. Ill try to upload it.
 

homelessduck

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The upload keeps failing but I'll try a few more times. I'll have 4g tomorrow when I'm in town so if I can't get it tonight I should be able to tomorrow. I could get a better video tomorrow too in the light. I'll keep trying though " using tinypic unless anyone has a better suggestion? I forgot my photobucket account lol.
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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i can free rev my truck to 3K rpm and it WILL NOT BUDGE the boost needle. i am using the same boost port on the intake snail. i will try this again after i get my new up-pipe installed.
 

homelessduck

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I just got it to load .. before it said I needed flash or something. Anyway, it looks like the needle is off for some reason .. it isn't. I went and double checked. Ill try to get a better video tomorrow before I head to town .. I ended up not going today.
 

Black dawg

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I have also seen many factory set ups make over 4psi in park. Even my non wastegated kit will show some boost in park (1-2psi).
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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*** guys, i'm somewhat jelly now. not that boost in park means anything while driving(although it might show the turbos ability to spool) i want boost i park now lol.
 

Mikerson

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Ok, Guys. I'm back from Indiana and I finally had a chance to take my crossover pipe and y-collector off and look. I think I found at least part of the problem. It's very sooty where the y-collector bolts to the passenger side exhaust manifold (C). Pretty sure I'm not getting a good seal there. What's interesting is that the collector pipe that came on the truck has those slip flanges for both the right and left exhaust manifold joints, just like at (A) and (B). The factory turbo Y-pipe to exhaust manifold joint at (C) has a solid flange.

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The problem that I see, is that the studs on the exhaust manifolds have a nut on them that when everything is assembled, is between the two flanges. It looks like that on the passenger side, the nut is stopping the solid flange from tightening down on the spherical cone. Does this make sense? Do those nuts do anything and can I take them off the studs in the manifold to let the solid flange tighten down? The layout doesn't show it, but is there supposed to be some sort of donut gasket here?

I tried to look up inside the hot side of the turbo from underneath with an inspection mirror to check for melted turbine blades, but I couldn't get a good look. Once I get this flange thing figured out, I'm going to permatex exhaust sealant the hell out of the up pipe slip joint and put it all back together and test. That's less work than pulling the turbo off.

Anybody ever tried Permatex 80697 Copper Spray-A-Gasket at the up pipe slip fit to seal it? Or even this stuff? Says it's good for 700*F....
 

icanfixall

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Those nuts you see on the manifold studs are needed. They are thereto use a wrench on to thighten the studs in the manifolds. If you remove them a length of allthread can be installed. Use some anti sieze on the threads so it will come out easy if it needs to. I think the threads are 7/16x14 threads but its been a long time since I worked in that area. Any exhaust leak will ruin the boost no matter how small it is. Any any sooted areas are an indication you have a leak... Soot is the tell all in this area... And its about all soot is good for... Besides giving a bike rider in thos spandex shorts riding in front of you a big healthy soot bath as you pass them....:eek:;Sweet:D
 

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