Help Troubleshooting Professional Clutch/SMF Install

[dieseldirt]

I have under 250 miles on a South Bend clutch/SMF kit installed by South Bend certified installer. Very happy with it overall, I know it still has to break in and everything. I swore to myself I would not post a thread about it but here goes...

It has the rollover noise and vibration that I was expecting. But it just started chattering/squealing pretty loud @ idle, sounds similar to a loose drivebelt, bad pulley, etc. It quits doing it whenever I push the clutch pedal in, even just a little.

They put in a new master and slave assembly when they did the job, came from Napa.....

Just want to make sure it doesn't need to be re-adjusted or something.........

Thanks!

 

[jrad235]

I had a TOB that was squealing like that, lasted about 500 Miles then quit. It's still in the truck after 1.5 years. I've been told by my clutch shop(Not the installers) that the Ford Throw out bearings occasionally do that.

 

[sle2115]

Throw out bearing! And yes, I've had them start to squeal that quick...and often it goes away! I had one in a 4 cyl S10 that did it shortly after install, I drove the thing 270,000 more miles and the bearing always squealed with foot off the clutch, but it never failed. Was quite annoying though!

 

[79jasper]

I know it's bad, but I catch myself resting my foot on the clutch all the time. Just enough to make the noise go away.

 

[gatorman21218]

my TOB hissed like a pissed off snake when cold. It lasted 3 years until the engine blew up and I replaced the clutch

 

[hesutton]

TOB as stated above. The factory is not generous with grease and they dry out quickly and start to make noise. If you could go back in time, you could pack that sucker with grease before it was installed. But, that's impossible, so what you can do is pull the slave, fork, and boot from the trans. Slide your hand in there and work grease into the TOB. It takes forever and is a PITA, but it will stop the noise.

I do this almost everytime I change the oil in my truck (if I'm not in a hurry). Really wish I had a TOB with a grease zerk. That'd save a lot of time and effort.

Heath

 

[dieseldirt]

Thanks for the info.

Too bad packing that sucker with grease wasn't included with the $1948 I paid them. They did get it done in 9 hours labor and it does work very well so far. Might the squealing cause premature TOB failure or just the annoying noise? I can try to get in there and grease it I guess.

Any more maintenance tips other than proper usage and keeping the pedal linkage tight?

 

[dieseldirt]

An unsettling update...

The shop says it is not the TOB
They say it is a sealed unit and greasing would not help

They had it for a few hours today and told me it is not the TOB but the clutch fork has a little free play and is vibrating causing the squealing noise. They said they have put PB Blaster on there and it stopped squealing.

I said OK...............................

By the time I made it home it is already squealing again @ idle (quits with light pressure on pedal)

It has a brand new "CLICK" more of a THUNK, its loud, and I can feel it in the pedal EVERY time the clutch pedal is released. This was not there before they had it this morning. Every time the clutch pedal is depressed it CLUNKS upon release.

I am confident that they have tinkered with the clutch fork and messed something up. They asked me are you sure the Slave is seated properly etc. and yes, it is, but I did notice that they ripped the boot wide open apparently in order to gain access with the PB Blaster ?!?!?!!?

I pulled the inspection cover and had someone work the clutch pedal and I am confident it is coming from inside the bellhousing behind the clutch.... something is not meshing right in there with the clutch fork which was working fine 12 hours ago.

I may have read something about a known issue with these clutch forks and an improved version being available, if this is even my problem, can anyone please help?

They are also saying there is no way to adjust any part of this system, is this true?

 

[Agnem]

OK, first... the TOB is a sealed unit, and yes that is the answer they will give because they have not the time nor patience to force grease into it the way Heath mentioned. I think I was the one who pioneered that, and yes it is painfull, and can take HOURS... It's very difficult to work grease into the TOB, but that's how it's done.

Secondly, if they just did your clutch job and you paid almost $2000 for it, and they were not competent enough to install a new TOB or ensure that you are happy with the job, then you have every right to go after them until it is right. I run a shop. I know how much of a pain in the butt you are going to be to them, BUT... I would rather give work away or LOSE money on a job, then have my name go up on the hall of shame sticky.

Stick to your guns, and make them make it right. Yes, they pulled the fork and put it back in wrong, and if they tore the boot, then make them replace that too.

 

[redneckaggie]

2000 to do just that???? holy hell I would definately make them make it work perfect for that much. I believe the kit is about 6-800 and there is not that much labor to it.

 

[riotwarrior]

$2K and 9 friggen hours...*** already I did my own transmission swap BY MESELF in 5 hours taking my own sweet time take pics etc *** where they doing...

You paid for 9hrs labour I assure you they didn't take 9 hrs if lil ole me can get one trans out and one back in in 5 including some cleanup and so forth!

Make them take out the trans and install a NEW TOB which should have been done! and ensure that boot is replaced along with maybe a new fork too

Hound em like a Pit Bull on a mail carriers ass and DON"T LET GO!

 

[TahoeTom]

Did you get the kevlar pilot bushing? I had a crate vw aircooled that came with a rusty old pilot bearing and it screamed pretty bad. Replaced throwout bearing and problem was still there.

 

[dieseldirt]

Well, the $2000 did include a new pre-bled master+slave assembly. But they got the plastic one from Napa... if they would have consulted me I probably would have sprung for the real thing.

They got the complete clutch and flywheel kit from South Bend so it should have included everything, a new TOB, kevlar pilot bushing, etc.

The only things that are not new would be the clutch fork & the part inside the bellhousing coming from the tranny which the clutch fork pivots on.

I have not been in there so I have not seen whether these are worn out or just put back together wrong.

I figure pulling the fork and checking things out myself will lessen the chances of them making this right.

The whole point of paying an official SBC Installer was to not have to worry about it.

The service writer explained their findings verbally, said the squeak is gone, lets keep an eye on this, hopefully it will break in better.
By the time I got it home (25 miles) it was already squeaking again, and had the new clunking from inside bellhousing upon release of clutch pedal, and ripped boot.

I just received something in writing which kind of pissed me off:

Customer Comments: TOB Making Noise
Job Description: Test drove truck and determined squeak from under truck at low speed. Checked truck over in shop, found source of squeak to be the clutch release lever. Lubed pivot points on lever, squeak went away but lever still had rattle. Talked with customer, determined TOB OK and no further repairs needed.

 

[dieseldirt]

Does anyone have a source for a new clutch release fork and boot? Unavailable @ Napa.

I would love to make them make it right, they are now giving me the runaround as expected. But, the trouble is I don't trust them with my truck anymore, and am unable to just drop it off for the week like they request.

The guy thought he would have to pull the transmission back out, in order to remove the clutch release fork

I will take it to my regular mechanic and we will grease the TOB, and pivot points on fork, and see where we're at...

 

[TahoeTom]

I bought a release fork from Rock Auto. Not sure about the boot. National Parts Depot (NPD) lists them both.