Help please... classic start porblem.

jim_22

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Well I think I know what has to be done but I am still stuck. The truck has been starting and running good except for one thing which I will mention in a bit. Yesterday I decided to tackle my non-functional 6-way ******* fuel selector valve and replace rotting leaking metal fuel lines under the truck. Now I can't start it after many hours of frustration last night. The last test I did was to remove the line from the lift pump to see if I had fuel squirting out when I cranked. I did not. Does this mean for sure that my lift pump took a sh*t? The pump is only two years old and has seen only a few thousand miles. Now for the suspicion. Two days ago my fuel filter light came on, indicating low fuel pressure. I replaced the filter with a new one and the light did not go out. The truck still started without hesitation and ran very well at all speeds. Was my lift pump starting to become weak? In retrospect I regret taking the fuel lines apart before solving the filter light.
Now, if I decide to go electric and bypass the mechanical pump it seems to me I need to do something to disable the mechanical pump but I can't seem to find the thread now.
And a side question, the return lines (one from each side are "T'd"). Does this T contain a checkvalve so the orientation of connection matters?
As always, thanks so much for those that take the time to reply.
 

riotwarrior

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Well I think I know what has to be done but I am still stuck. The truck has been starting and running good except for one thing which I will mention in a bit. Yesterday I decided to tackle my non-functional 6-way ******* fuel selector valve and replace rotting leaking metal fuel lines under the truck. Now I can't start it after many hours of frustration last night. The last test I did was to remove the line from the lift pump to see if I had fuel squirting out when I cranked. I did not. Does this mean for sure that my lift pump took a sh*t? The pump is only two years old and has seen only a few thousand miles. Now for the suspicion. Two days ago my fuel filter light came on, indicating low fuel pressure. I replaced the filter with a new one and the light did not go out. The truck still started without hesitation and ran very well at all speeds. Was my lift pump starting to become weak? In retrospect I regret taking the fuel lines apart before solving the filter light.
Now, if I decide to go electric and bypass the mechanical pump it seems to me I need to do something to disable the mechanical pump but I can't seem to find the thread now.
And a side question, the return lines (one from each side are "T'd"). Does this T contain a checkvalve so the orientation of connection matters?
As always, thanks so much for those that take the time to reply.
Sounds like lift to me...could be stuck FSV though, how about a feed line to the intake side of the Mech pump...from say jerry can of fuel...then see if that solves the no pump fuel out the pressure side? If so then problem is PRE pump....IF NOT...PUMP is problem

Not sure why you can't find the fuel pump article in the TECH section it's on the first page about five threads down...there bouts
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?59242-Converting-mechanical-fuel-pump-to-electric
Link for you! I did this...I want to use a different electric pump...this is working...but I suspect it's not long for this world in comparison to say a Carrier pump from Genlightening

Do the test above before ruling anything ....

JM2CW

Al
 

GenLightening

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To disable the mechanical pump, remove it and install a block off plate (2 bolt NOT the 4 bolt) from a Chevy 454. And check the link below for the E-pump info.
 

homelessduck

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I would start by running a fuel supply line from a fuel can straight to the lift pump. that would tell you if the pump is bad or if you have issues pre-pump.
 

jim_22

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This is my follow up post. The truck is running good! :) The FSV was wiring was fine. The lift pump died for the second time in under 2 years. No more of that. I now have an electrical pump. Put in one that I had lying around. It is a decent one with about the correct pressure. Use the same one on my boat. Fantastic for priming the whole system. Will probably go Carrier when I get around to it. I had to throw in what I had to get the truck home. New fuel and return lines, new electric tank selection valves goodbye pollack you miserable pr*ck and new independent primary filters, separate each tank. I have a true dual fuel system with switchable source and returns. I got the stock switchable fuel gauge to read by redoing the harness on the stock switch. This is how I thought I may have pooched the connection to the FSV but as correctly pointed out, no that wiring is not connected. I could not find the block plate for the pump at 3 stores so I looped the fuel fines back on itself for the time being. Wow it feels good to have that mechanical pump bypassed. Now I can feed that turbo and feel what I was missing!
 

icanfixall

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About the lift pump... You can make your own block off plate from any metal material. Just use the gasket as a template on some 1/4 inch thick aluminum. Any belt sander will clean up the cuts. To cut it out use a dremmil jib saw. Its that simple. Be carful applying the plate. The block machined surface has a step to it and sometimes the lip of the plate can get on top of that. Then you have a gusher oil leak...
 
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