Headgaskets.

[seawalkersee]

Oh...and as far as "other work" that gets done to the heads, I THINK there might be some videos out there on youtube under a certain boardmember's name.

SWS

 

[hesutton]

That guy deserves some credit there, I mean his build is more impressive than NMB2's ever thought of being IMHO. But thats just me.
Anyway those gaskets that Eric used in that engine were the last of its kind in existence. I just got off the phone with hypermax's engineer and he said they honestly had no intention of making any more of them because they cost $1000 and no one seemed to be interested in putting $1000 into an IDI. He said they were amazed when Eric bought that set from them because they had been there on the shelf since the late 80's.
Anyway after an hour of talking with this engineer at hypermax I convinced him there is a market for these gaskets out there, and with modern manufacturing technology we think the price might decrease for them (but we'll have to see what he can come up with). He has a lead on a gasket manufacturer that he thinks will make the gaskets, theres gonna be a little re engineering with them to bring them up to par with modern manufacturing techniques and materials. I stuck my neck out and said I'd be the guinea pig if they will make them, and I could off the top of my head name 15 people that have stated they want a gasket like this. The engineer stated those gaskets were meant to easily hold 100psi of boost and they actually built an IDI back in the day with those gaskets that did just that. I think these are the ticket. The only way we could make these better is if I could get them to try the hydrogen gas filled orings that dont require machine work, like Cometic is using with their phuzions. But we have to wait until after the new year to hear anything back from them.

Anything new from Hypermax on this Sean?

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

He is still out for Vacation right now. He's coming back next week so I'll call on Monday again. I know I'm excited about them too. lol

 

[hesutton]

He is still out for Vacation right now. He's coming back next week so I'll call on Monday again. I know I'm excited about them too. lol

You see the video of that C-ringed IDI running yet? Pretty cool for sure.

Heath

 

[Ididriver]

You see the video of that C-ringed IDI running yet? Pretty cool for sure.

Heath

I know ts pretty sick. Icant imagine it putting down any real big numbers onthe a stock sized ip tho.

Anyways haven't had access to upload pics of the inside of the whine but it's really clean.
Only questions I have now are. What to use to clean the block and head surface. And is it just lay the gasket down and put head down or is there some kind of gasket sealer I use too?

 

[Diesel JD]

IDIdrvr, the block should be scraped as clean as you can get it with a single edged razor blade and no chemicals. They make a tool for holding them to reduce the likelihood of you getting cut. After that you should take acetone and put it on a paper towel or clean shop rag and wipe it until the block is really, really clean. Do not use anything oil based as a cleaner which could interfere with the gasket seal. Seriously it would be best if both mating surfaces were spotlessly clean. Do not coat the gaskets with anything as per the manual. They seal best dry. Lay the gaskets down and don't forget your alignment dowels. Also remember that the rearmost 3 or 4 head bolts or studs must be installed in the head and held up or at least flush with the bottom of the bolt hole in the heads so that you have room to install them. After that, torque them in the correct sequence...if you're reusing headbolts, there is usually a slightly higher torqu value for used bolts than new ones. If you're using ARP stus, follow ARP's directions. Good luck...get it done!

 

[Ididriver]

Picked up a few things today. Two gallons of oil. A quart of ATF to put intue fuel filter when I start this thing ip again got my new valley pan and single sided razor bladeBalong with the tool for holding it ( thanks for the tip diesel jd) started looking at tourqe wrenchs till i rembered my dad had one. Might still go back for it just so i can have my own. Then it started raining so no work. Ugh never any time to work on it.
But should get on itthis weekend.

 

[seawalkersee]

The thing to remeber is this: It would seem that this is your first build. If you do things 1 step at a time, you will have an easier time doing the whole thing. Like, clean and istall one head first. Then, the second head. Remember to do the retorque on them (5ish times). Then the intake, then exhaust, injectors and IP. This is a lot easier to do also if you wait to install the front cover after that is done, or at the same time. This ensures the marks line up for the pump.

SWS

 

[riotwarrior]

Pilfered from NMB2's Build thread

......On another note, for people that have been waiting for headgaskets. I've been in talks with hypermax for some time and they have watched my build. Due to my build and all of the new sparked interest in the IDI's they are going to start selling fire-ring headgasket kits potentially by the end of February.

Sounds like Justin along with others showing interest in the IDI and contacting Hypermax just may be a good thing.

Big and small block chevy's (EG only) were not the hot rod engines they are when the first came out. It took time to develop and make parts and usually no one spends the coin or does this with a new car....it's only when millions are made and they become inexpensive enough that people like us actually get to play and hot rod, unfortunately with a lack of hard parts for our engines it's more difficult than others, but with Moose products and DPS stuff and others it's coming to fruition

 

[IDI Diesel7.3]

If it hasn't been mentioned yet, and if you can't get studs from typ4, I emailed arp yesterday to get the Part #s for the headstuds, hence they don't have a listing for pre powerstroke IDI 7.3s.

Part #s are

#AR7.000 - 34pcs 1lb studs
#200-8514 - 34 pcs washer
#ARN34 - 34 pcs Nuts

I'm doing the studs while the motor is going in, before the cab is on.. so I don't run into the same problem.

 

[Diesel JD]

Problem is studs for the 7.3 are quite a bit more than studs for a 6.9. Russ's prices were very good, and IDIdrver simply doesn't need them right now....he needs to get his truck back together. If he decides he really loves this truck he's going to probably do a nice build when he gets more established and has better cashflow, or else he'll get tired of it and get something else. For now, if he does decent prepwork and pays attention to detail this engine will buy him years to think about it. I'd feel totally comfortable on 7.3 bolts up to 12 psi and maybe well beyond, and he was not pushing over 8 before all this. We do appreciate the part #s though. Unless ARP has come down even the generic studs such as Russ offers were $450+ if I remember right, whereas you can buy a set of studs on ebay or from a dealer for a 6.9 all day for between $225-$250 and those bolts are weaker all of which makes stuffing a 6.9 a no brainer unless like me when I did my gaskets you simply are broke.

 

[IDI Diesel7.3]

I am very aware of how much the ARP studs are, $700 seems like way to much in my opinion also, they'll definately put me over my budget.. but Just thought i'd throw that in there if anyone was interested.

 

['94IDITurbo7.3]

started looking at tourqe wrenchs till i rembered my dad had one. Might still go back for it just so i can have my own.

what kind of wrench were you thinking about getting? what wrench does your dad have?

DON'T skimp in the torque wrench department. a year ago my dad and i went in halfs on a nice MAC wrench after our craftsman wrench took a crap due to improper use(we did not know that with a clicker sytle wrench that you are supposed to back the torque setting on the wrench all the way down when done using it). the mac wrench ranges from 30-150ftlb's. it is a good wrench and we have used it a lot and have not had any problems with it and it is still dead on accurate.

 

[subway]

Something I learned being in the Air Force is that you should cycle your torque wrench 5 times at the torque you want. Basically the wrench has some higher internal resistance the first few times. I know it is somewhat overkill for some of our stuff but it is something we have to do in keeping multi million dollar planes and lives safe in the air.

 

[Ididriver]

Not sure on what kind of torque wrench it is. I haven't looked at it I just know ts there.

I haven't updated in awhile because the truck has been a utter pain in the ass.
Trashed TWO! Gaskets trying to put drivers side head back on ugh...
So I went about just doing cleaning and getting everything ready to pull the passenger side head. Fuel filter housing alternator and all that good stuff.
Tryed to pull it out with exhaust manifold still on. Yup not gonna work. So it should be off tommorw.
All I know is I love my truck. But I'm really getting fed up with it.