buddy of mime wants a vavlve adjust done on his '93. Firstly, are they adjustable and secondly, any dirty tricks? Alaready got a set of gaskets and seals......
TIA
TIA
gotta do a valve adj on a '93.....
- Thread starter towcat
- Start date
Whit
Registered User
Before you begin, the engine must be under 100 degrees. I wouldn't attempt this if it has been running in the last 6 hours.
On my engine label the valve specs are listed.
The intake valves are set to .010" and the exhaust valves are set to .020". The manual states that if the intake valves are between .006" and .015" that they are within spec and don't require adjustment. The exhaust valves don't require adjustment if they are between .015" and .030".
The first step is to set the engine to top dead center. There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley that you want on top
To turn the engine over a barring tool work best however , I found that a 15mm socket on a long 1/2" drive ratchet works too. There are 4 15mm bolts that hold the crank pully on and any one of them will turn the engine over. Just make sure you go slow and the ratcheting action will let you turn the pulley all the way around without repositioning it.
Now that we are at TDC, start pulling the valve covers.
Now we can actually adjust the valves. If both number 1 rocker arms are loose then we can begin. If they aren't, rotate the crankshaft 1 full revolution and position the mark back at the top. This should put the #1 cylinder at top dead center.
With the engine in this position, adjust the intake valves of cylinders 1, 2 & 4 and adjust the exhaust valves on #1, 3 & 5. *Remember #1 is closest to the radiator and #6 is closest to the firewall.
Now rotate the crankshaft 1 revolution and put the mark back on top. You are now ready to adjust the intake valves on # 3, 5, & 6 and the exhaust valves on # 2, 4, & 6.
Once you are done checking/adjusting the valves, double check that all of the jamb nuts are torqued to 18 ft lbs.
On my engine label the valve specs are listed.
The intake valves are set to .010" and the exhaust valves are set to .020". The manual states that if the intake valves are between .006" and .015" that they are within spec and don't require adjustment. The exhaust valves don't require adjustment if they are between .015" and .030".
The first step is to set the engine to top dead center. There is a mark on the crankshaft pulley that you want on top
To turn the engine over a barring tool work best however , I found that a 15mm socket on a long 1/2" drive ratchet works too. There are 4 15mm bolts that hold the crank pully on and any one of them will turn the engine over. Just make sure you go slow and the ratcheting action will let you turn the pulley all the way around without repositioning it.
Now that we are at TDC, start pulling the valve covers.
Now we can actually adjust the valves. If both number 1 rocker arms are loose then we can begin. If they aren't, rotate the crankshaft 1 full revolution and position the mark back at the top. This should put the #1 cylinder at top dead center.
With the engine in this position, adjust the intake valves of cylinders 1, 2 & 4 and adjust the exhaust valves on #1, 3 & 5. *Remember #1 is closest to the radiator and #6 is closest to the firewall.
Now rotate the crankshaft 1 revolution and put the mark back on top. You are now ready to adjust the intake valves on # 3, 5, & 6 and the exhaust valves on # 2, 4, & 6.
Once you are done checking/adjusting the valves, double check that all of the jamb nuts are torqued to 18 ft lbs.
rebel_horseman
Rt. Wing Extremist
Not sure how many miles are on the truck and how hard it's been used, but my '93 has 160k on it and when I went to adjust my valves they were all within spec. Didn't have to adjust anything.
And yes they are adjustable. Pretty easy job.
And yes they are adjustable. Pretty easy job.
damn.....
that was too easy.
only hard part was barring the front of the motor and looking for the TDC dot in the hole. Pulled the fan clutch to make my life a little easier while pulling on the breaker bar. I did check out a TSB off a 94 and they had a really good tip of watching the rocker action to check for approaching TDC. Otherwise that would have been a real pain to look for that darn dot.
RH-
you were right. I was getting measurements slightly tighter than the specs so I left her alone. Intake I was getting 7 to 9 thou and the Exh was 16 to 20 thou. He's complaining of clattering, it ain't in the valves. They're at spec or a little tighter.
Overall, I like working on this motor.
that was too easy.
only hard part was barring the front of the motor and looking for the TDC dot in the hole. Pulled the fan clutch to make my life a little easier while pulling on the breaker bar. I did check out a TSB off a 94 and they had a really good tip of watching the rocker action to check for approaching TDC. Otherwise that would have been a real pain to look for that darn dot.
RH-
you were right. I was getting measurements slightly tighter than the specs so I left her alone. Intake I was getting 7 to 9 thou and the Exh was 16 to 20 thou. He's complaining of clattering, it ain't in the valves. They're at spec or a little tighter.
Overall, I like working on this motor.
rebel_horseman
Rt. Wing Extremist
Yep that's one thing I love about my oldie....damned simple to work on. When I checked mine, I used the rocker arm trick to find TDC since I didn't have the patience to try to find that stupid dot.
If your bud is getting clatter, make sure he did the KDP fix. Hopefully that dowel hasn't backed out and is rattling around inside the engine. What sort of clatter is he getting? Is it RPM dependent? Does it happen at specific times or always; i.e. maybe it's rattles more when it is cold, or hot, or under load, etc? Maybe it's not even engine related. If it's a bolt action, maybe it's his flywheel or pressure plate crapping out.
If your bud is getting clatter, make sure he did the KDP fix. Hopefully that dowel hasn't backed out and is rattling around inside the engine. What sort of clatter is he getting? Is it RPM dependent? Does it happen at specific times or always; i.e. maybe it's rattles more when it is cold, or hot, or under load, etc? Maybe it's not even engine related. If it's a bolt action, maybe it's his flywheel or pressure plate crapping out.
I think it sounds fine.
I've got a small hill I can run her to see if it's load dependent or not. I go from sea level to 1800' in under 10 mins, so that will give me a small load test.
heck, my 7.3 has valve noise until she's fully warmed up and that takes an hour of freeway running at least. I didn't think the KDP issue went back that far, but if it is, I am going to have to do that fix. This truck hasn't had much work done to it other than your usual fluid changes. Oh yea, it's a slushbox truck unfortunately.
thanks for the tips!
I've got a small hill I can run her to see if it's load dependent or not. I go from sea level to 1800' in under 10 mins, so that will give me a small load test.
heck, my 7.3 has valve noise until she's fully warmed up and that takes an hour of freeway running at least. I didn't think the KDP issue went back that far, but if it is, I am going to have to do that fix. This truck hasn't had much work done to it other than your usual fluid changes. Oh yea, it's a slushbox truck unfortunately.
thanks for the tips!
rebel_horseman
Rt. Wing Extremist
No prob. From what I've seen, the KDP is an issue in all the trucks from '89 to '02. The 24v trucks are less likely but it does happen.
Luck with it.
Luck with it.
ford killer
Registered User
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2006
- Posts
- 14
- Reaction score
- 0
next time put a socket on the alternator and turn her over that way much easier.....
Whit
Registered User
yes turning via the alternator does work just fine but ya hafta go in reverse direction
Similar threads
